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#4811 of 5134 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee POWERTRAIN
Oct 18, 2010 (2:24 am)
Does anyone know what the warranty is on the 2000 Jeeps? Is it 100K miles? I have 103K and just thew a rod into the engine block. Advice? Been current on all oil changes, I am the second owner--it was a certified pre-owned 7 yrs ago. Just got it back Sat. night--had it less than 24 hrs before THIS. The work that was just done on it included a new radiator, a PCM card, tune up, front and rear diffs, new battery cables, new starter, transfer case serviced, front pinion seal replaced and rear axle shaft seals and the heat shield on the exhaust manifold was re-secured b/c it was rattling. There isn't any fuel in the oil that I can detect--that was the first thought as to what could have caused it. This jeep has been a commuter vehicle for the past 4 years. I need a miracle.
#4812 of 5134 97 JGC Water Pump Removal
Oct 18, 2010 (8:56 am)
I have to replace the water pump on my 97 JGC, 4.0L V6. I have removed the belt and the 4 nuts from the bolts that go thru the pulley. BUT, I cannot remove viscous fan drive or the pulley. Tried a 12 in. pry bar and a hammer with 1x2 wood stick. It doesn't budge. It almost seems welded on. Is there any way I can remove these items without damaging them? If you can't remove the pulley, I'm not sure I can get the water pump bolts all the way out? Or is the only way to try to remove the water pump and separate these items on the workbench? Any input appreciated.
#4813 of 5134 97 JGC Back-Up Switch
Oct 18, 2010 (8:59 am)
Does anyone know where the back-up lamp switch is on a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Thanks.
#4814 of 5134 Re: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee POWERTRAIN [aabbood]
Oct 18, 2010 (8:09 pm)
Sorry to hear about your situation. Have a 99 JGC Laredo V-8 with nearly 200,000 miles on it. Believe that the 2000 models had a three-year, 36,000 mile basic warranty on the drive train. An option was a 7 year, 100,000 mile extended factory warranty which I used until 98,000. Think that I might have had a "lemon," but the dealer took really good care of me. The only thing that was not replaced was the long block.
As to warranty coverage, you should look at the warranty papers that came with your purchase of the CPO to see the exact time interval and the allowable mileage left on the policy. Looks like you are on the outer edges or, over the time and mileage limitations.
Since it appears that you went to the dealer to get extensive repair/maintenance service, perhaps you can get deal on rebuilt or used engine.
Had a neighbor who threw a rod on a 2000 JGC Limited V-8 at around 80,000 miles. Claimed he had the oil changed at 6,000 mile intervals and it was supposed to have been changed just prior to the incident. Examination of the oil revealed that it it had not been changed for a very long time --- it was heavily sludged. It looked like the oil was never changed. Just in case, have the oil looked at to see whether the oil had actually been changed as claimed! He did not have the extended coverage. He ended up selling it to a mechanic for a pittance of its value if it was running.
Another cause may be that the service person drained the oil out of your engine and forgot to fill it with oil and started the engine to check for oil/filter leaks. Dry-firing could throw a rod.
Looks like you have few options for a resolution. In view of the work that you have just put into it, the best option is to put in a used/remanufactured engine and factor the costs out by keeping it for another 100,000 plus miles.
#4815 of 5134 Re: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee POWERTRAIN [etomori]
Oct 23, 2010 (5:07 pm)
Thanks for the info, I am looking for a rebuilt or junker motor now. You were right, 3 yr. 36000. The oil was clean as a whistle, I do check it somewhat regularly and I have lifetime oil changes from the dealer. Could it have 'dry fired' and still been drivable but just damaged? A friend worked on it as a favor--it was only supposed to get a new radiator, it had a fresh filter and oil when I got it back. Currently I am bumming rides to work as I have not yet paid for the original work just done on it.
#4816 of 5134 heater fuse blows when ignition is turned on
Oct 25, 2010 (7:15 am)
when i turn the ignition key to on the fuse for the heater/ac blows. at first the turn signal stopped working when the heater /ac fuse blew. I replaced the fuse. the turn signal and heater worked for 2 days then the fuse blew. I removed the fuse for the heater/ac and the turn signal would work for a day or 2 then stop then work again. now when I turn the ignition on the ac/ heater fuse blows immediately. the fuse blows when the heater/ac controls are off. I down loaded a fuse box diagram from wjjeep.com/fuses and it states that fuse # 20 10amp controls ignition run/ heater/ac,/left and right turn signal sense and heated seats. I do not have heated seats. what is ignition run and left and right turn signal sense? could one of these circuits be the one that is blowing the fuse? I disconnected the ac compressor and inside the engine I removed the 15amp fuse and a relay for the ac clutch and a 40 amp fuse for the blower motor the fuse still blows when I turn on the ignition with all heater controls off. what fuse controls the turn signal. I hope you can help me with this problem
#4817 of 5134 Re: 95 Grand Cherokee wont start [rwengr]
Oct 25, 2010 (8:24 am)
I checked for a vacuum leak. Found one hose that wasnt holding vacuum. Was leaking out t connectors. Repaired the line and still made no difference. This year jeep doesnt have an egr valve on the 6 cylinder so couldnt replace that. Dis replace the coolant temp sensor still no difference.
#4818 of 5134 Re: 95 Grand Cherokee wont start [taffy3]
Oct 25, 2010 (8:25 am)
Changed the relays and did not solve the problem.
#4819 of 5134 Re: 95 Grand Cherokee wont start [uncfuz]
Oct 25, 2010 (8:30 am)
Finally got the car running. Had plenty of suggestions everything from vacuum leaks relays fuel pumps sensor to the main brain. I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I did finally give up cause was not going to keep buying this and that only to find out it wasnt the cause. Even though hate letting someone else fix my cars had it towed away. They claim they replaced the coil, plugs and cleaned gunk out of the throttle body. They confirmed that yes there was spark present but said it was too weak and not able to ignite the fuel. I always thought spark was spark but guess if its not strong enough it wont work. So learned something new. Thanks for all the help.
Oct 29, 2010 (7:16 am)
Let me first start off by saying that I know absolutely NOTHING about cars. Now to my problem... I parked my Jeep in the driveway after work one day, then I had a day off, then I went to start it up and the darn thing was dead. It wasn't making any noise whatsoever. So I took it to Monroe and they put in a new starter and did an oil change for $288. (I know that seems high, but that's what Jeep said it would cost too. I did it at Monroe because it had to be towed and they were closer...) Anyway, no big surprise, but that didn't work. It was at least making noise after that though, so I figured it helped. Next, I sucked it up and towed it to Jeep. Jeep replaced the CAM Sensor and the CAM Drive for $650. (They quoted me $650 and then tried to charge me $695 when I went to pick it up, then when I complained the parts were magically less money and the computer screwed up. Bastards.) I don't know what those parts are or what they do, but the car at least drives now. The car needs to be inspected this month too, and the service writer at the dealership told me I needed to drive it 100-150 miles before it would pass the inspection (something about failing for readiness??) Anyway, I took it to work two days in a row and on the 2nd day the check engine light came on. The car is loud and it feels like it's driving rough. The only way to describe it is that it sounds like it's sputtering almost and it feels like it's having a heck of a time running -- like it's going to die at any minute. I don't have anymore money to blow on this car, and Jeep told me to bring it in again, but I'd have to pay another $95 diagnostic fee if they run the codes and it's not related to the Cam Sensor or the Cam Drive. I'm really hesitant to take it in if I'm going to have to pay again because I'm beyond over budget this month.
**Edit** After a bit of searching on the internet I found how to get to the OBD system. I did what they said (turn it on turn it off 4 times) and the code was P0138. I googled that and it said O2 Sensor. The car hasn't really been driven (except going to work the last 2 days) in over a month -- could it be the gas? Should I try throwing in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (a suggestion from a website) and seeing if that solves the problem? Will the light turn off on its own if that's it or will I have to disconnect the battery? How long would I have to drive it to know if that works?