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#4646 of 5143 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Quad AWD front end noise whine howl.
Dec 29, 2009 (7:00 am)
Jeep is full time 4WD AWD - I get a howling / whining noise from what appears to be the front end of my Cherokee - I only get the noise when I am accelerating and maybe a second or two after I take my foot off the gas pedal. If I am coasting in drive or neutral no noise. As soon as I hit the gas - the noise comes back instantly. The noise gets louder with increased speed - turns to more of a howling. I took it to one place and they said it was the front drive shaft - they took it out, drove it, and said the noise went away.
Took it to a gear guy and he said not in the drive shaft - he thinks its a rear end noise? Another guy said it could be the transfer case? Anyway to diagnose the problem from the symptoms? I don't know a lot about cars but the it would have to be something that "engages" when pressing on the gas right?
Also at times if I am backing up and have the wheels cut really hard I will get a clunking noise that seems to be coming from the front end as well. Any help would be appreciated. The Jeep is full time AWD - it should be noted that the noise started when NTB only replaced the two front tires and left the old rears on - a friend said that you have to replace all tires at once or it could harm the transfer case due to the differences in diameter. As soon as I heard that I went back to NTB and them install two new tires on the rear (now a matching set). The noise started very faint but has grown in volume - you can feel the "whine" in the peddle a little bit but becomes most appearant once you hit around 30mph or so
#4647 of 5143 Re: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Quad AWD front end noise whine howl. [dan7jeepman]
Dec 29, 2009 (8:04 am)
You definitely need a Chrysler shop manual. I have a 97 JGC and I bought mine on ebay as a PDF file. Below are some excerpts.
1. Driveline Vibration
"Tires out of round or unbalanced wheels will cause a low frequency vibration...Brake drums that are unbalanced will cause a harsh, low freq vibration....Driveline vibration can result from loose or damaged engine mounts....Propeller shaft vibration increases as vehicle speed is increased. Vibration in a specific range is not usually caused by an unbalanced propeller.Defective universal joints or an incorrect propeller angle are usually the cause of such vibration."
2. Transfer Case Noise
"Insufficient or Incorrect lubricant. Drain and refill. Disassembly and inspection may be necessary to locate source of noise."
Given age of vehicle make sure rubber boots on CV joints are not leaking or soaked in oil. If they are not dry, you have a lubricant leak and who know how long it has been leaking.
Ideally, if you can find a way to operate vehicle without the transfer case, even if speed is limited, it may help you diagnose the problem.
#4648 of 5143 Re: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Quad AWD front end noise whine howl. [
Dec 29, 2009 (2:23 pm)
my 2000 jeep grand ch has made a noise sense 78000 miles now have 214000 miles i just turn up the radio a little bit my noise will go away when you remove front drive shalt but need 4 wheel drive most of the time
ring and pinion in the front that seams to make the noise i just dont worry bout it
#4649 of 5143 Re: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Quad AWD front end noise whine howl. [dan7jeepman]
Dec 29, 2009 (6:53 pm)
Probably a worn front end diff. I had a similar noise and thought it was a bearing running out. Proved not to be the case. So put the front of the Cherokee on stands and removed wheels and front half shafts. Noise didn't dissappear but changed. So removed front drive shaft between transfer case and front axle. Noise gone. As I only use the car on the road I left it like that. Runs better, corners better with reasonable understeer (safer) and I get an extra mile or two for my gallon (less friction). Try it.
#4650 of 5143 Re: NO HEAT 2004 JGC [jeepowner3]
Dec 30, 2009 (5:50 pm)
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and the heater just dosent produce any heat. The temperature of the motor is good but the heater just gets slightly warm. I am looking at replacing the heater core but need to know if that is going to fix the problem or if there are other problems I need to check first because the heater core is an expensive repair job. Any help is welcome.
#4651 of 5143 Re: NO HEAT 2004 JGC [rhall62]
Dec 30, 2009 (8:36 pm)
I presume you checked your thermostat. Also if you have air conditioning you may have a control valve that keeps hot water from entering the heater core. If so that may be closed. Hope that helps.
#4652 of 5143 Re: NO HEAT 2004 JGC [rhall62]
Dec 31, 2009 (9:00 am)
I looked at my 97 shop manual. The diagram shows the blower motor and A/C evaporator mounted in the same duct. Next it shows a "Temperature Blend/Air Door". If this door is open then then the air passes thru the heater core. If not, the heater core is disconnected from the duct.
Everything is electrically controlled.
Temp gauge should be up to normal within 5 minutes of leaving the driveway unless you are idling. If it is very slow then your thermostat is stuck open and it will take a long time to get warm air from the heater so for a short 15-20 min. trip you never get much heat. However, it eventually should warm up. Where I liive our coldest days are in the 20's and my jeep is parked outside.
I am not sure but I don't think there is any control valve to control circulation of engine coolant thru heater core. Check the Haynes manual. Find where the heater hoses go thru the firewall. Make sure they get warm.
I'd make sure warm up is normal (thermostat OK) and then look at how the duct is controlled. To do it yourself plan on some disassembly of the dash which I always find time consuming, but it can be done.
#4655 of 5143 Re: NO HEAT 2004 JGC [rhall62]
Jan 01, 2010 (8:23 pm)
spend a few bucks at a reputable repair shop,and have the cooling system power flushed..they can send coolant both ways through heater core,and probably clear any blockage..if core isn't leaking-(interior would smell of hot coolant,pass floor would be wet) then replace core..
-they will b able to tell u what's wrong..
-if engine temp gauge is hot,and temp knob is turned all the way in the red zone-you should have heat..you should have a gauge-and normal operatimg temp is around 200% f,..try that b 4 you dive into tearing dash apart..also,online repair manuals are online at advance auto and autozone..more detail than a haynes manual,just print out your findings-keeps you from getting greasy keyboard(lol)