Last post on May 20, 2013 at 1:06 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Cherokee, SUV
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#4593 of 5134 Re: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Speaker Problem [billupstateny]
Nov 13, 2009 (9:20 am)
If it only happens when you are moving, a connector or wire is loose or speaker or radio not secure which stresses wires and connectors. Next, I assume it happens all the time so you can test it in your garage.
Obtain a portable radio or compact stereo that can driive your speakers. The ohm ratings should match or be as close as possible. The Power output of stereo should meet or exceed speakers.
1. Disconnect speaker wire at radio and speaker. Connect speaker to stereo on seperate wires. Make sure volume of stereo is 0 when you turn it on.Adjust volume until plays loud. If Ok, go to step 2. If OK, don't replace speaker and go to step 2
2. Repeat above test using vehicle speaker. Leave as much of the speaker wire in the vehicle as possible.
If test passes problem is radio or connector that goes to radio. Check for bent or loose pins or sockets. If you have 4 speakers, I would expect all of the wires to be integrated into a single connector that plugs in the radio.
Nothing happens without risk. You could spend time & $ with no results or damage it while working on it.
NOTE: disconnect negative battery cable any time you disconnect or reconnect any electrical connections except if replacing a bulb that you know is turned off
#4594 of 5134 Re: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Speaker Problem [rwengr]
Nov 15, 2009 (1:54 am)
rwengr: Thank you for your reply. As soon as I get some free time, I will try your suggestions and post my result.
#4595 of 5134 Blower motor resistor voltage
Nov 19, 2009 (4:23 pm)
I had the blower motor resistor problem on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee where the connector melts. I am replacing the connector and noticed there is always 12 volts going to the connector, even when my Jeep is off. Is this normal?
#4596 of 5134 Re: Blower motor resistor voltage [jpen83]
Nov 20, 2009 (8:55 am)
You will need to trace the electrical diagram to see if it is controlled by the ignition switch. You will need a Haynes manual, Jeep shop manual (the best) or alldatadiy.com
Nov 21, 2009 (10:43 pm)
I have a 2005 JGC Limited with the 5.7 hemi with 76K miles. My Jeep will idle, start, and shift fine. But when I drive it say to the store and home, then a few hours later I go to drive it again. It will start fine and shift into gear without any problems, when I drive to the end of the street (about 100 feet) and stop at the end of the street it may sputter a little bit then stall out or it'll just stall with out any sputtering. It will usually start right back up like nothing happened, and one time it took about 2 tries at (about 3 seconds turning over) and fired on the second try. After this happens the transmission may clunk around a bit at speed. Also no check engine light has come on yet and this has been going on for about 3 weeks now.
Any answers or ideas would be a lot of help as I honestly don't know where to start with this one. Thanks.
#4598 of 5134 Re: Stalling [genesysjeep]
Nov 23, 2009 (12:27 pm)
I fixed up my 97 jeep (4.0L I6) last summer for my kid. It ran awful. I replaced plugs and wires. It helped a little, but not much. So, I decided to leave no stone unturned.
1) Measure fuel pressure.
2) Make sure each plug is getting spark. They make a tool for this
3) Compression test each cylinder
4) Measured vacuum and followed Haynes manual
5) Check for cracks in any portion of vacuum hoses that get exposed to a lot of heat. Use your fingers or a mirror.
6) Do all emission related checks in Haynes manual.
Fuel pressure was OK. Spark was OK. I had 1 cylinder that was slightly below spec, but my engine has 170K.
I serviced everything I thought was suspect.
1) replaced some hoses
2) new idle air control valve
3) new EFE vacuum control solenoid
4) new intake gasket.
5) throttle was very dirty. removed it and cleaned everything as much as possible.
It runs surprisingly well except for a little vibration at idle which I attribute to the cylinder.
I strongly believe improvement was the aggregate result of the above, but overall, I believe the biggest culprit was vacuum. I'd be surprised if any of your cylinders failed compression.
You will have to learn how to backprobe devices with a voltmeter.
See harborfreight.com for good prices on gauges.
#4599 of 5134 Re: Stalling [rwengr]
Nov 23, 2009 (3:01 pm)
I did spark plugs today and a friend helped me check the spark. (Hes got the tool)
I checked the hoses that the dealer recommended I replace. But I plan on going back tomorrow to give it a better look when there is some more light outside.
There is a harbor freight right up the street from me, never go there but i'll check out the prices next time im out.
Thanks for the advise.
Also I had a 97 jeep with the 4.0 and the engine went strong till 240K when a piston rod came lose. (that's just what I think it was never opened it up) Replaced that motor with a 98 Cherokee's 4.0 with about 90k about 2 years ago. Gave it to my younger sister about a year ago and its still running strong. Loved that 4.0 it just never knew when to quit.
Nov 26, 2009 (8:56 am)
Ok I posted before on the wrong forum I guess... My Wife and I just bought a 1989 cherokee pioneer and in less than one week we had to add another 50 bucks to the tank..Is there anything I can do to increase the gas mileage in this vehicle? I'm open for suggestions. Such as aftermarket parts in specific, or anything else people have found out that works. Since our Jeep has the Six-banger engine we thought that we were going to have something more economical on gas prices (I also own a 92 Ford f150 dual gas tank dollar killer), especially since we live in Chicago (The Nation's Highest Gas Priced City). Boy were we wrong!
Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!!!
#4601 of 5134 Re: Sick Mileage [redrat34]
Nov 26, 2009 (1:31 pm)
in less than one week we had to add another 50 bucks to the tank.
How many miles did you put on in that week and is that typical of your driving?
SUVs and Smart Shopper
#4602 of 5134 Re: Sick Mileage [redrat34]
Nov 28, 2009 (2:14 am)
you left a lot of info out..like mileage,shape(been beat up? matching tires?maintenence?)
#1-CLEAN AIR FILTER!.if it can't breathe,mileage suffers..
tune up-fresh plugs mean it's burning ALL th gas-well,most
--stop putting the cheapest gas you can find..you take a old car,and feed it crap gas..i've got th 5.2-v8,and average 18mpg..using premium marathon..for the dime's worth of diffrence,it runs better,and don't plug up the converter!..
--is th converter plugged?..listen,and see if it's TOO quiet..might be worth replacing..
--as far as dropping 50 bucks per,ya ain't driving a econo-box !..these are a working piece of machinery..it's gonna cost x mpg to get that weight down th road-be it a 6 or 8..my v8 doesn't work as hard as your 6,but is feeding two more cylinders..--the ride/preformance/ameneties kinda make it a safer-more plesant ride than those little soda cans with wheels i've seen get blown into a ditch in a strong wind..
tune it up,fix what's wrong,fill your tires,buy good gas..treat it like a real car,and it should be a real car for you..but rember,it's a truck,with a suv body on it..that's what makes them safer..when i got mine-my premiums went DOWN,20 bucks per..so,it's all a trade offit'll never get th mileage of a corolla,but in a accident..?