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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

4604 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 2:07 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: pilotswife (Nov 05, 2009 6:47 pm) |
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Replying to: mdjeepman (Aug 11, 2003 10:19 am) |
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Replying to: pilotswife (Nov 05, 2009 6:47 pm) V8 is cool. But, assuming it can be made compatible, maybe an I6 would be easier to find and cheaper. My 97 2wd JGC has the 4.0 I6. Acceleration was good but I don't tow |
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Replying to: jeepguy3 (Apr 04, 2006 8:45 am)
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Replying to: billupstateny (Nov 12, 2009 11:16 am) Obtain a portable radio or compact stereo that can driive your speakers. The ohm ratings should match or be as close as possible. The Power output of stereo should meet or exceed speakers. 1. Disconnect speaker wire at radio and speaker. Connect speaker to stereo on seperate wires. Make sure volume of stereo is 0 when you turn it on.Adjust volume until plays loud. If Ok, go to step 2. If OK, don't replace speaker and go to step 2 2. Repeat above test using vehicle speaker. Leave as much of the speaker wire in the vehicle as possible. If test passes problem is radio or connector that goes to radio. Check for bent or loose pins or sockets. If you have 4 speakers, I would expect all of the wires to be integrated into a single connector that plugs in the radio. Nothing happens without risk. You could spend time & $ with no results or damage it while working on it. NOTE: disconnect negative battery cable any time you disconnect or reconnect any electrical connections except if replacing a bulb that you know is turned off
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Replying to: rwengr (Nov 13, 2009 8:20 am) |
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I had the blower motor resistor problem on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee where the connector melts. I am replacing the connector and noticed there is always 12 volts going to the connector, even when my Jeep is off. Is this normal?
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Replying to: jpen83 (Nov 19, 2009 3:23 pm) |
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I have a 2005 JGC Limited with the 5.7 hemi with 76K miles. My Jeep will idle, start, and shift fine. But when I drive it say to the store and home, then a few hours later I go to drive it again. It will start fine and shift into gear without any problems, when I drive to the end of the street (about 100 feet) and stop at the end of the street it may sputter a little bit then stall out or it'll just stall with out any sputtering. It will usually start right back up like nothing happened, and one time it took about 2 tries at (about 3 seconds turning over) and fired on the second try. After this happens the transmission may clunk around a bit at speed. Also no check engine light has come on yet and this has been going on for about 3 weeks now. Any answers or ideas would be a lot of help as I honestly don't know where to start with this one. Thanks.
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Replying to: genesysjeep (Nov 21, 2009 9:43 pm) 1) Measure fuel pressure. 2) Make sure each plug is getting spark. They make a tool for this 3) Compression test each cylinder 4) Measured vacuum and followed Haynes manual 5) Check for cracks in any portion of vacuum hoses that get exposed to a lot of heat. Use your fingers or a mirror. 6) Do all emission related checks in Haynes manual. Fuel pressure was OK. Spark was OK. I had 1 cylinder that was slightly below spec, but my engine has 170K. I serviced everything I thought was suspect. 1) replaced some hoses 2) new idle air control valve 3) new EFE vacuum control solenoid 4) new intake gasket. 5) throttle was very dirty. removed it and cleaned everything as much as possible. It runs surprisingly well except for a little vibration at idle which I attribute to the cylinder. I strongly believe improvement was the aggregate result of the above, but overall, I believe the biggest culprit was vacuum. I'd be surprised if any of your cylinders failed compression. You will have to learn how to backprobe devices with a voltmeter. See harborfreight.com for good prices on gauges.
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