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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

5134 messages,  Last post on May 20, 2013 at 1:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Cherokee, SUV

    

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Messages Page 435 of 514

#4341 of 5134 2001 Jeep GC Heater problems by hecmol

Dec 05, 2008 (7:58 am)

Hi, At this point I have been reading many different choices on what to do, to get this problem fix. I am low on budget so, if someone could just be able to direct me the best way on saving money and maybe fixing my problem.
 
My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited comes with a dual electronic AC/Heater control. AC works excellent. No leaks. Radiator tank is always fine on level. When turning up the temperature to get the heater runningl; nothing happens. Air goes from cold to a regular blowing temp. When weather is kind of cold and car has been running for a while you are able to see some fumes coming thru the vents. They smell like antifreeze but I have never found any leak below the dash nor below the car. Would anyone guide me in the right direction in order to try cheap things first and than go from there.
 
I've heard it could be the heater core, motor blowers..
 
Anyone that could help me, really much appreciate it.
 
Thanks alot.

#4342 of 5134 Finally A Fix ( MAYBE ) by howie56

Dec 05, 2008 (10:24 am)

I took the jeep back into the garage after the tranny rebuild and torque converter replace and the vehical was still shuddering and they gave it to another mechanic and started checking other things and found out that there was a faulty ERG valve with very erratic voltage and pulse width -- replaced ERG valve and as of now I'm not noticing the surging any more . It was acually the engine that was making the jeep shudder . Will update after a month or so .

#4343 of 5134 Re: 96 jgcl front diff pinion gone [bubba38] by trickster

Dec 06, 2008 (12:15 pm)

Replying to: bubba38 (Aug 09, 2008 2:25 pm)
You need to replace your font differiential gear nest. This composes of a ring gear, spider gears and new ring gear bolts. The shims are already there on each side of the spider gears; don't mix them up, and put them back in the same order you found them from. If you take the front drive shaft off to make the vehicle into a 2 wheel drive, this is going to create ALOT of problems you don't want to deal with.
When you replace the gear nest, the pinion gear (the one where the front driveshaft connects to should not be tampered with, for it does not need to be removed. If the pinion gear, is in fact, the one that is damaged, then replacing it will be more difficult than you think, because there is in fact what they call a "crush" sleeve. This sleeve sets the load/preload for the differential in order to set the lash/backlash for the gears to mesh properly.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

#4344 of 5134 Re: 2001 Jeep GC Heater problems [hecmol] by trickster

Dec 06, 2008 (1:08 pm)

Replying to: hecmol (Dec 05, 2008 7:58 am)
Air goes from cold to a regular blowing temp. What does this mean? Are you getting any warm air at all? Is the blower motor working on all settings? As for the fumes, this sound like you have a coolant blockage at or near your heater core. The cheap way of possibly fixing this problem, is to get the cooling system flushed. You can have this professionally done, or do it yourself. I myself do my own.
Try this: you can go and get an off the shelf bottle of coolant flush and use as directed which probably will fix your problem (fingers crossed). Or you can try this: drain the system of coolant. Take the thermostat out and refill the system with water. Add dishwasher washing crystals to the radiator (about 4 cups). The crystals act like sandpaper and blast away the built up crud from years non- preventive maintainence.
Drain the system from the lower radiator hose, refill with water, let run for awhile and drain again.Repeat as needed until most or all of the crystals have left your cooling system.Replace your thermostat with a new one (while your at this stage anyways) and refill with a 50/50 mix of prestone coolant and water.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

#4345 of 5134 Re: why the shaking [soxfansc] by trickster

Dec 06, 2008 (1:24 pm)

Replying to: soxfansc (Nov 26, 2008 8:29 pm)
The shaking your getting is more than likely the fact that you re-installed your front drive shaft 180 degrees from it's original position. Also inspect the drive shaft to see if any of the small balance weights have knocked off recently. Are the universal joints in good condition, and no parts missing? Most shaking in the front end can be attributed to lost tire balance weights, mud or dirt on the inside of the tires, separated or worn tires, unbalanced front drive shaft or a worn front end dampener shock.
 
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

#4346 of 5134 Re: 96 jgcl front diff pinion gone [trickster] by tuggajb

Dec 06, 2008 (3:45 pm)

Replying to: trickster (Dec 06, 2008 12:15 pm)
if you replace the ring gear you also have to replace pinion gear as these are matched sets

#4347 of 5134 Re: 96 jgcl front diff pinion gone [tuggajb] by trickster

Dec 06, 2008 (4:07 pm)

Replying to: tuggajb (Dec 06, 2008 3:45 pm)
The pinion does not have to be replaced if your replacing the gear nest with the original gear ratio. If your swapping out gear ratios ie: 373 ratio to a 410 ratio, then yes, everything must be changed to match each other.
The diff in your particular year is more than likely a spicer35 in the front, and a spicer 30 in the rear. These are the most common setups in jeep products. Talk to any gear centers, or driveline centers in your area about replacing the gear nest in your diff.
By the way, i've replaced 20+ gear nests over the years, and never had to replace the pinion; unless the pinion was damaged, or needed replacing.
 
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

#4348 of 5134 Re: 97 JGC V8-Internal Transmission Failure? [klsflyer] by trickster

Dec 07, 2008 (10:27 am)

Replying to: klsflyer (Nov 22, 2008 2:20 pm)
I hope you got your tranny fixed, but if not then.....
I cannot see internal transmission failure, because you state that in fact there is smooth gear transitioning. I assume that other than using more fuel to get you where you want to go everything else is fine regarding the transmission. There is a governor sensor located inside the transmission pan, and that needs to be changed. I would have a compentent shop or dealership do the work, (it really is messy work), and since your at the point, changing your transmission filter is a very good idea (about $30 ). A good idea for the first 2 weeks after the fix, is to put cardboard on the ground under the transmission. Or just keep an eye on it. Transmission pans have a tendency to leak from the bolts loosening off, and will need to be re-torqued to spec, unless you ask them to use lock-tite on the bolts.
 
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

#4349 of 5134 Re: 2001 Jeep GC Heater problems [hecmol] by mclaxton

Dec 20, 2008 (7:04 pm)

Replying to: hecmol (Dec 05, 2008 7:58 am)
if your fan works with the air on and your problem is no heat then it is the flaps in the blower housing that are not directing hot air into the cabin. had the same problem and i went to this forum and was directed to a company called heater treater. they sell a product that is specifically made for this problem. was easy to do and only took 45 min and cost $145 heater has been working great since, it comes with full idiot proof instructions, hope this helps.

#4350 of 5134 Re: 2001 Jeep GC Heater problems [mclaxton] by smokebee

Dec 21, 2008 (1:36 pm)

Replying to: mclaxton (Dec 20, 2008 7:04 pm)
Start engine--run til hot--feel the two heater hoses near where the enter the firewall connections. If both are equally hot the water is circulating thru the heater core.
Kill engine.Drop the golve box lid all the way down. You will need to release the rubber stops and flex the two pins on the top of the lid so that it will come all the way down.
At the left side you will see a squarish black box attached to the blower housing.Remove the two srews holding it. Lift the housing away from the blower house(leave wireing connected). Pay attention to the shaft alignment. Turn the switch on. Set air to floor. Manipulate the heat control. If the shaft ring does not move within the motor housing do this. remove the 4 screws on the housing. Slowly lift the side off to expose the gears. Remove the three regular gears to expose the worm gear.Again manupilate the heat control. If the worm gear does not move.---Remove the tiny motor and turn the screw by hand to free it up. Again see if the motor will run. If it runs--- replace everthing. Reattach the motor housing to the blower housing and try it out again. That fixed my problem at no cost--just time and frustration Good luck--Smokey Swann---Tx

Messages Page 435 of 514

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