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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

4613 messages,  Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 1:41 PM

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#4333 of 4613 Re: Can 94 engine go in 90 Jeep Cherokee limited? [sassafrasnanc] by rself Nov 24, 2008 (8:13 pm)
Replying to: sassafrasnanc (Nov 05, 2008 4:56 pm) if both engines are the inline 6 then the answer would be yes you might have to change the motor mounts but they should bolt up the same.
#4334 of 4613 Re: red lines it self [s_morgan] by clipkarn Nov 25, 2008 (7:03 pm)
Replying to: s_morgan (Nov 23, 2008 10:54 am) Still having red line fun? If you didn't find an air leak like one of the other guys suggested, you might investigate the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). When I was having some glitches with my CPS, on one reinstall, the engine did what you describe. Well, not to red line, but definitely ran away. After another remove, clean and replace, it worked fine. It's a bitch to get at. Behind the right exhaust manifold on the block where the bell housing bolts on. Might be worth a look.   Good luck --- Clip Replies to this message: troll157 (Nov 25, 2008 8:19 pm) paule (Nov 25, 2008 9:06 pm)
#4335 of 4613 Re: red lines it self [clipkarn] by troll157 Nov 25, 2008 (8:19 pm)
Replying to: clipkarn (Nov 25, 2008 7:03 pm) My '89 was doing the same thing awhile back, I'd have to shut it down. Difference is that after a couple of times, It'd get it's act right. You have cruise control? Was thinking about it awhile, you checked the throttle plate, Have you checked the Idle air motor? Maybe doesn't even have one, I don't know. Pintle doesn't move thoroughly and smoothly, the machine won't idle correctly. DON"T move the pintle in or out manually, messes 'em up, supposedly. I'd disconnect ALL linkage/sprin gs, etc. from the throttle-body and try it again. Hold the throttle shut with your hand, or something. Let someone else start it though, so's you might visually check the the mechanics of it all. I don't know what would happened if you were to remove the Idle-air-control motor and, CAREFULLY, metered the "controlled" air flow into the idle-air circuit manually. ie Shove a finger or such into the port the idle motor come from, stop or slow the air flow from the port inside, the port, and see what happens. Leave the motor connected to the harness, set it carefully somewhere safe and observe it's operation while you are at it. Oh, the cruise control..... Had a friend long ago, ME, got some vacuum hoses twisted around, and when I thought the'y'd "ONLY connect to those ports one way", It wasn't right at all. Vacuum came up -- so did the rev's--so did the vacuum--so did the rev's, etc. Scarry stuff isn't it? Spine jumps right out of the skin, huh?  At the time mine was acting-up, I'd considered making a plane out of it. Just wouldn't have been as much fun though. You be careful, patient and consider, carefully, what's going on, and you'll be just fine. Have fun. Replies to this message: paule (Nov 25, 2008 9:06 pm)
#4336 of 4613 Re: red lines it self [troll157] by paule Nov 25, 2008 (9:06 pm)
Replying to: troll157 (Nov 25, 2008 8:19 pm) I'd also check your throttle cable again. It almost sounds like it's "hanging" wide open. I had a Dodge Avenger way back when that the dealer replaced the head gasket on. When they put it back together, they hooked the cruise control return spring up wrong. So, the first time I used the cruise control, guess what. Yep, wide open throttle. I had to kill the ignition but not lock the steering column and muscle the car over to the side of the road. You should have seen the look on the face of the service manager when I took the car back in for them to check it out and I told him what had happened!
#4337 of 4613 why the shaking by soxfansc Nov 26, 2008 (3:53 pm)
I just replaced a CV axcle on the drivers side and now the jeep is shaking (steering wheel) whenever I drive over 50 mph and I am not sure why? I should also say that the gears in the hoghead are bad so I also took the front driveshaft out to try to alleviate the the grinding noise I would sometimes hear .Can anyone pass on some suggestions? Replies to this message: tuggajb (Nov 26, 2008 6:24 pm) soxfansc (Nov 26, 2008 7:29 pm) tuggajb (Nov 27, 2008 10:54 am) trickster (Dec 06, 2008 12:24 pm)
#4338 of 4613 Re: why the shaking [soxfansc] by tuggajb Nov 26, 2008 (6:24 pm)
Replying to: soxfansc (Nov 26, 2008 3:53 pm) first of all i would also remove the axel shalfs as if the gears lock up you will realy go for a ride you will not enjoy also prob brake the front axel housing also   the shake could be that you did not get the front hub in strait when you tightened the 3 bolts that hold it in make sure that you didnt get dirt behind it (between the mount serfus and the hub) Replies to this message: soxfansc (Nov 26, 2008 7:29 pm) tuggajb (Nov 27, 2008 10:54 am) trickster (Dec 06, 2008 12:24 pm)
#4339 of 4613 Re: why the shaking [tuggajb] by soxfansc Nov 26, 2008 (7:29 pm)
Replying to: tuggajb (Nov 26, 2008 6:24 pm) I very much appreciate the help , would you mind breaking that down a little bit more as far as what I need to do to fix this because I am learning as I go .                                         Thanks ,                                        soxfansc Replies to this message: tuggajb (Nov 27, 2008 10:54 am) trickster (Dec 06, 2008 12:24 pm)
#4340 of 4613 Re: why the shaking [soxfansc] by tuggajb Nov 27, 2008 (10:54 am)
Replying to: soxfansc (Nov 26, 2008 7:29 pm) when you changed the front axel shalft you had to remove the front hub to get the shalf out as when if you run the jeep the gears turn in the punkin so if the bearings are going bad they can get stuck and freze up in the housing lock up tight and stop you when you leaste expect it even with the drive shalft out the axels still turn the gears when you move so if you are not going use 4 wheel drive take out the axel shalfs and drive shalf and go for it here is a url that you can use to see what you need to do http://www.autozone.com/UseCase,L001/UserAction,logout/getInTheZone.htm   later
#4341 of 4613 2001 Jeep GC Heater problems by hecmol Dec 05, 2008 (6:58 am)
Hi, At this point I have been reading many different choices on what to do, to get this problem fix. I am low on budget so, if someone could just be able to direct me the best way on saving money and maybe fixing my problem.   My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited comes with a dual electronic AC/Heater control. AC works excellent. No leaks. Radiator tank is always fine on level. When turning up the temperature to get the heater runningl; nothing happens. Air goes from cold to a regular blowing temp. When weather is kind of cold and car has been running for a while you are able to see some fumes coming thru the vents. They smell like antifreeze but I have never found any leak below the dash nor below the car. Would anyone guide me in the right direction in order to try cheap things first and than go from there.   I've heard it could be the heater core, motor blowers..   Anyone that could help me, really much appreciate it.   Thanks alot. Replies to this message: trickster (Dec 06, 2008 12:08 pm) mclaxton (Dec 20, 2008 6:04 pm) smokebee (Dec 21, 2008 12:36 pm)
#4342 of 4613 Finally A Fix ( MAYBE ) by howie56 Dec 05, 2008 (9:24 am)
I took the jeep back into the garage after the tranny rebuild and torque converter replace and the vehical was still shuddering and they gave it to another mechanic and started checking other things and found out that there was a faulty ERG valve with very erratic voltage and pulse width -- replaced ERG valve and as of now I'm not noticing the surging any more . It was acually the engine that was making the jeep shudder . Will update after a month or so .

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