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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

4608 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 11:06 PM
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Replying to: rbirm (Nov 08, 2008 11:09 am) |
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Replying to: rbirm (Nov 08, 2008 11:09 am) I looked at my 97 shop manual. Maybe this info will help. The first thing they recommend is a test for spark at the coil. 1) Disconnect igniton coil secondar from center tower of distributor cap. Hold cable terminal approximately 1/2 in. from good engine ground. 2) Crank engine with starter and observe cable terminal for a steady arc. If steady arc does not occur, inspect the secondary coil cable. Also inspect distributor cap and rotor for cracks or burn marks. Repair as necessary. If steady arcing occurs, connect ignition coil calbe to distributor....(and then they discuss observing arc at ignition wires, etc. If you really like the car try to buy a shop manual. Some other thoughts. 1) You must be able to measure fuel pressure 2) Wiring/connectors between engine computer and ignition components? 3) What about the automatic shutdown relay ? 4) The Body Control Module (BCM) and engine computer must communicate to start. Replacing BCM requires reprogramming BCM or it won't start. Is there a similar issue when you replace the engine computer? If you fix it, let us know what it was. |
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My 2004 has become a nightmare to disengage part time 4wd (4 wheel hi). It is the select trac package with the 4.0 litter. Sometimes it takes a 1/2 mile or more of constantly pulsating the gas pedal to finally come out. I have tried backing up when this happens and sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. If you have to park and restart it will disengage with a fairly large bang. It does this especially on turns. I only shift with the vehicle moving with my foot off the gas, as I was told by the dealer that this is prefered. I am guessing this happens when the front axle is binding a little from being on dry pavement when the transfer case finally decides to disengage. When the vehicle was newer it did this once or twice, now it is constant. I have had the case and axle fluids changed at the proper maintenance schedule using factory fluids. It has 63k on it and is still in warranty. I am bringing it to the dealer this week and was hoping for any advise from other owners with similar problems so I know how to respond if the dealer tries to give me a song and dance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have a 2000 grand cherokee laredo with 4l inline 6 cyl yesterday the oil pressure gage went to 0 and stayed there any ideas what my problem might be ?
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Replying to: chateaub (Nov 16, 2008 7:55 am)
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Replying to: stetem (Nov 16, 2008 2:09 pm) |
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Replying to: danond (Feb 25, 2007 9:51 pm) I know this is an old post, but I have the same problem! Works ok in 4 Lo, but no traction/engagement at front wheels in full time 4 Hi with Quadra Trac II. Anyone know of the fix for this?? Thanks! |
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Replying to: loosenut (Nov 16, 2008 8:01 pm) I want to make sure the dealer will warrentee as part of the drivetrain. I have talked to jeep service guy who owns the same truck. He said that sometimes his does not disengage right away so he stops and backs up and it comes right out. Mine does only sometimes no matter how far I back up. |
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Replying to: trimdesigns (Oct 20, 2008 4:49 am) Now your trans, have they dropped the pan? Whats it look/smell like?If it has metal and smells burnt then pull the unit and have it rebuilt. Not sure how many miles but a 95 with anything over 70,000 is going to need a master rebuild kit and not just gaskets and seals. You may have misunderstood the "new" transmission quote,there is no one that I am aware of that sells a "new" or fact reman unit for that.A good rebuild is over 2K,factory rebuild or a Japser is a bit more.For 1300 that might be a used unit,what is warranty on it? |
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Check engine light on and very sluggish when accelerating. Having to push accelerator more than usual after stopping. Wouldn't you know on a weekend and my mechanic is closed. Fault sensor code (AutoZone) came up with P1763: Governor pressure sensor too high. Causes: 1)Internal transmission failure 2)Open or shorted circuit condition. Any ideas? Safe to drive? No misses or noises from the engine. Smooth gear transitioning. Start and idle with no signs/sounds of any problem. Biggest change is it takes more accelerator pressure than normal to get moving.
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