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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair
4604 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 2:07 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: vincerg (Nov 05, 2008 5:14 pm) The best solution is to disable the output of the sensor. My guess is the dealer wants $400 or more to fix it. Because it is related to safety you might have to do it yourself. A mechanic might not do it. I'm 99% sure dealer won't do it. First, get a Haynes manual and look for repair info or wiring diagrams. The output of the sensor is probably a digital (1 or 0) input to your Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM reads sensor and turns the light on or off. NOTE: ALWAYS HAVE (-) OF BATTERY DISCONNECTED WHEN MANIPULATING CONNECTORS OR WIRES, HOOKING UP A TEST PROBE, ETC. You need to measure voltage output at the sensor when warning light is On and Off. If the values switch between 0V (Gnd) and 12-14V (battery) continue. Otherwise stop. If sensor module uses data bus to communicate with BCM, you cannot disable it and fake out the BCM. You will have to replace the sensor module. If the light is on for 0V, you will have to pull the input high (battery) to fake out the BCM. It's very possible that disconnecting output of sensor to BCM will be sufficent. If you measure (battery) when light is on, you will have to find a way to ground the input to the BCM. In either case the sensor output is left disconnected. Use a clip lead to test your solution. If OK, implement a permanent solution. You will have to backprobe nearby connectors. You will need a voltmeter probe with a long thin point. After you find a good location, you will have to improvise a connection. Test drive alone (no family) where there is little or no traffic. |
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Replying to: sassafrasnanc (Nov 05, 2008 4:56 pm) Unless you know sellers, what are the odds of finding a 94 engine with less than 100K miles ? |
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i have 98 jgc i get no fire from coil .i have changed coil ,tps sensor,map sensor,crank positin sensor,and main computer, still will not start...prior to this it would run but very rough and used the heck out of gas.i chaned everthing thats has come up on code reading...this s crazy
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| I installed new tranny cooler lines on my 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4.0 liter. The new lines had slightly different pressure fitting ends than the old ones. There are 4 shiny metal tabs inside whereas the old had none and used a plastic collar and snapped onto a 2 tabbed larger collar. I attempted to install without the plastic but couldn't get a seal. I started the engine and tranny fluid seeped out of the pressure fitting. They don't seem to lock into place. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix it? | |
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Replying to: rbirm (Nov 08, 2008 11:09 am) |
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Replying to: rbirm (Nov 08, 2008 11:09 am) I looked at my 97 shop manual. Maybe this info will help. The first thing they recommend is a test for spark at the coil. 1) Disconnect igniton coil secondar from center tower of distributor cap. Hold cable terminal approximately 1/2 in. from good engine ground. 2) Crank engine with starter and observe cable terminal for a steady arc. If steady arc does not occur, inspect the secondary coil cable. Also inspect distributor cap and rotor for cracks or burn marks. Repair as necessary. If steady arcing occurs, connect ignition coil calbe to distributor....(and then they discuss observing arc at ignition wires, etc. If you really like the car try to buy a shop manual. Some other thoughts. 1) You must be able to measure fuel pressure 2) Wiring/connectors between engine computer and ignition components? 3) What about the automatic shutdown relay ? 4) The Body Control Module (BCM) and engine computer must communicate to start. Replacing BCM requires reprogramming BCM or it won't start. Is there a similar issue when you replace the engine computer? If you fix it, let us know what it was. |
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My 2004 has become a nightmare to disengage part time 4wd (4 wheel hi). It is the select trac package with the 4.0 litter. Sometimes it takes a 1/2 mile or more of constantly pulsating the gas pedal to finally come out. I have tried backing up when this happens and sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. If you have to park and restart it will disengage with a fairly large bang. It does this especially on turns. I only shift with the vehicle moving with my foot off the gas, as I was told by the dealer that this is prefered. I am guessing this happens when the front axle is binding a little from being on dry pavement when the transfer case finally decides to disengage. When the vehicle was newer it did this once or twice, now it is constant. I have had the case and axle fluids changed at the proper maintenance schedule using factory fluids. It has 63k on it and is still in warranty. I am bringing it to the dealer this week and was hoping for any advise from other owners with similar problems so I know how to respond if the dealer tries to give me a song and dance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I have a 2000 grand cherokee laredo with 4l inline 6 cyl yesterday the oil pressure gage went to 0 and stayed there any ideas what my problem might be ?
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Replying to: chateaub (Nov 16, 2008 7:55 am)
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Replying to: stetem (Nov 16, 2008 2:09 pm) |
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