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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

4609 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 6:10 AM
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Replying to: brianbossick (Oct 19, 2008 3:23 pm) If all else fails and you have time, replace intake/exhaust gasket and see what happens On 4.0L I6 they are combined. It's mostly labor. Gasket is not a big $ item. You can guarantee the intake gasket is not working as good as when it was new. |
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Replying to: trimdesigns (Oct 20, 2008 4:49 am) |
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Replying to: brianbossick (Oct 19, 2008 3:23 pm) |
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| OK, a few weeks ago, prior to needing rear defrost in WV, I was loading stuff into the hatch and noticed as I looked up at the window that the piece that attaches the wires to the grid lines that run across the window to defrost was melted as well as the wires. We had not used rear defrost for a while and do not know where to begin to fix it. Is this a defective problem that Jeep should fix? Please help! Frosting every morning!!! | |
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The head gasket in my 90 Jeep Cherokee Limited has blown for good now and I need a new engine. Found a wreck 94 Cherokee for a super great deal that has an engine with 75,000 miles on it. Wondering if they are compatible? Some how I have a love-hate relationship with this car and KEEP putting money into it....
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Hello too all: I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee Ltd. The tire pressure monitor light comes on & the dealer suspects one of the sensors is the problem. In my opinion this feature is nothing more than a pain in my back side. It appears as though the monitor circuit is fused, (10A), but what I don't know is if the fuse can be pulled w/o creating a tsunami of additional problems. Any help would be appreciated.
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Replying to: vincerg (Nov 05, 2008 5:14 pm) The best solution is to disable the output of the sensor. My guess is the dealer wants $400 or more to fix it. Because it is related to safety you might have to do it yourself. A mechanic might not do it. I'm 99% sure dealer won't do it. First, get a Haynes manual and look for repair info or wiring diagrams. The output of the sensor is probably a digital (1 or 0) input to your Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM reads sensor and turns the light on or off. NOTE: ALWAYS HAVE (-) OF BATTERY DISCONNECTED WHEN MANIPULATING CONNECTORS OR WIRES, HOOKING UP A TEST PROBE, ETC. You need to measure voltage output at the sensor when warning light is On and Off. If the values switch between 0V (Gnd) and 12-14V (battery) continue. Otherwise stop. If sensor module uses data bus to communicate with BCM, you cannot disable it and fake out the BCM. You will have to replace the sensor module. If the light is on for 0V, you will have to pull the input high (battery) to fake out the BCM. It's very possible that disconnecting output of sensor to BCM will be sufficent. If you measure (battery) when light is on, you will have to find a way to ground the input to the BCM. In either case the sensor output is left disconnected. Use a clip lead to test your solution. If OK, implement a permanent solution. You will have to backprobe nearby connectors. You will need a voltmeter probe with a long thin point. After you find a good location, you will have to improvise a connection. Test drive alone (no family) where there is little or no traffic. |
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Replying to: sassafrasnanc (Nov 05, 2008 4:56 pm) Unless you know sellers, what are the odds of finding a 94 engine with less than 100K miles ? |
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i have 98 jgc i get no fire from coil .i have changed coil ,tps sensor,map sensor,crank positin sensor,and main computer, still will not start...prior to this it would run but very rough and used the heck out of gas.i chaned everthing thats has come up on code reading...this s crazy
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