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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair
4612 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 1:22 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Are there any transmission gurus out there? I have a 95 GC 4.0 4x4. My trans will run perfect in 1rst and 2nd, but no 3rd or OD. I pulled codes 14 and 26 from the onboard tranny diag OD light. My local tranny shop suggested a new tranny at $1300 regardless of diagnostic codes. What are my next steps? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
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Replying to: roskopcoe (Oct 18, 2008 2:37 pm) I have some suggestions which helped me. Do a compression test. See HarbourFreight.com for gauges. If test results not too bad, then you have a chance. If you don't have compression, correcting other problems may not help much. Service ignition (plugs, wires, and coil) to eleminate that area as an unknown. Next, get the Haynes manual and go thru the section on emission controls and do every sensor, component, etc. test. You may have to create special test leads. See Radio Shack for miniature test clips and wire. Then, disconnect every vacuum line from the intake manifold except crankcase ventilation and plug the manifold openings. Make sure crankcase hose is OK. Any hoses to the air filter should be plugged after disconnecting. If it runs better, you have a vacuum peripheral issue. Reconnect vacuum lines one at a time to see what might be causing the problem. If you make improvements, but idle is still rough, consider replacing intake manifold or least re-torque the bolts. My one experience with this sort of thing was on my 97 jeep. It idled very rough. Would almost stall. There was no single item responsible for the problem. It was a collection of little problems and as I addressed each one it ran better. Idle is a little rough because compression on cylinder 2 was a little low, but no driveability problems. |
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Replying to: brianbossick (Oct 19, 2008 3:23 pm) If all else fails and you have time, replace intake/exhaust gasket and see what happens On 4.0L I6 they are combined. It's mostly labor. Gasket is not a big $ item. You can guarantee the intake gasket is not working as good as when it was new. |
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Replying to: trimdesigns (Oct 20, 2008 4:49 am) |
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Replying to: brianbossick (Oct 19, 2008 3:23 pm) |
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| OK, a few weeks ago, prior to needing rear defrost in WV, I was loading stuff into the hatch and noticed as I looked up at the window that the piece that attaches the wires to the grid lines that run across the window to defrost was melted as well as the wires. We had not used rear defrost for a while and do not know where to begin to fix it. Is this a defective problem that Jeep should fix? Please help! Frosting every morning!!! | |
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The head gasket in my 90 Jeep Cherokee Limited has blown for good now and I need a new engine. Found a wreck 94 Cherokee for a super great deal that has an engine with 75,000 miles on it. Wondering if they are compatible? Some how I have a love-hate relationship with this car and KEEP putting money into it....
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Hello too all: I have a 2005 Grand Cherokee Ltd. The tire pressure monitor light comes on & the dealer suspects one of the sensors is the problem. In my opinion this feature is nothing more than a pain in my back side. It appears as though the monitor circuit is fused, (10A), but what I don't know is if the fuse can be pulled w/o creating a tsunami of additional problems. Any help would be appreciated.
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Replying to: vincerg (Nov 05, 2008 5:14 pm) The best solution is to disable the output of the sensor. My guess is the dealer wants $400 or more to fix it. Because it is related to safety you might have to do it yourself. A mechanic might not do it. I'm 99% sure dealer won't do it. First, get a Haynes manual and look for repair info or wiring diagrams. The output of the sensor is probably a digital (1 or 0) input to your Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM reads sensor and turns the light on or off. NOTE: ALWAYS HAVE (-) OF BATTERY DISCONNECTED WHEN MANIPULATING CONNECTORS OR WIRES, HOOKING UP A TEST PROBE, ETC. You need to measure voltage output at the sensor when warning light is On and Off. If the values switch between 0V (Gnd) and 12-14V (battery) continue. Otherwise stop. If sensor module uses data bus to communicate with BCM, you cannot disable it and fake out the BCM. You will have to replace the sensor module. If the light is on for 0V, you will have to pull the input high (battery) to fake out the BCM. It's very possible that disconnecting output of sensor to BCM will be sufficent. If you measure (battery) when light is on, you will have to find a way to ground the input to the BCM. In either case the sensor output is left disconnected. Use a clip lead to test your solution. If OK, implement a permanent solution. You will have to backprobe nearby connectors. You will need a voltmeter probe with a long thin point. After you find a good location, you will have to improvise a connection. Test drive alone (no family) where there is little or no traffic. |
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