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#4168 of 5136 Alarm and electrical problems.
Jun 28, 2008 (10:55 am)
I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have had this car for the past 2 years, but not until a month ago did an alarm start going off every time I enter my car. The only way for me to disengage the alarm is to start the car after I enter it.
This presents a problem because another issue is occurring simultaneously. Sometimes it will not start at all. It appears as if there is some kind of power problem, that I usually solve by messing around with the fuses. When I turn the key to the start position nothing happens. I have an stereo system connected to an antenna that comes up when the car is started. Whatever is keeping the car from starting is connected to the issue with the stereo system because at times when the car will not start I have no power going to the radio, cigarette lighter or windshield wipers. All other displays, power and lights work fine regardless.
When this happens I can't start the car until my antenna and radio come on. In the past year Ive had the starter and several other parts replaced, but that doesn't seem to be the problem.
The alarm is supposed to make other people afraid to enter my car- not me. Haha.
#4169 of 5136 Re: 98 GC Keeps Draining my battery! [corsairdn]
Jun 28, 2008 (11:24 am)
yep the internal reg has a short
#4170 of 5136 Re: Alarm and electrical problems. [jamesbruce0]
Jun 28, 2008 (11:25 am)
have you replaced the ingnition switch?
#4171 of 5136 Re: 98 GC Keeps Draining my battery! [corsairdn]
Jun 30, 2008 (8:54 am)
I have a 97 and have considerable experience with this problem.
If the liftgate ajar switch on the liftgate or the one on the liftglass is faulty or has come loose, the body control module will not turn off and will drain your battery in 1 or 2 days. A schematic or connector pinout will show 1 liftgate ajar (digital) input on the BCM, but this input is the wired OR of the above 2 signals. I believe BCM uses this signal to disable rear wiper.
To check this out:
(1)disconnect (-) of battery and remove the bulb mounted in the hood.
(2) connect ammeter (10A) between (+) post and (+) cable.
(3) reconnect (-) of battery
(4) Whatever you do, DO NOT start it.
(5) Make sure all doors closed and manual lights turned off
If you have above problem, current will read about 200-300 mA and never drop. When working correctly, the current should drop to 30 mA in a minute or two.
Note: if current is negative it means ammeter is hooked up backwards. Solution and troubleshooting require removal of interior panel on liftgate.
When you open a door, it should draw around 5A until you close the door and the lights go off.
If you have the above profile, read on. If you have much larger drain, it is probably something else.
Removing electrical connectors from the switches should temporarily fix the problem and pinpoint the cause The switch on the liftglass is just a press fit. First, I tried to make it fit more securely. It was OK and then came loose again. I had to drill a small hole and use a tiny screw to keep it in position.
Another potential cause is if the body control module cannot communicate with another module like the door module over the Chrysler data bus. I found a service bulletin about this. The switch on driver door to disable locks/windows on other doors uses the data bus to communicate with other modules. Correct operation gives some indication the bus is working.
It is very possible, dealer replaced one of your switches and it was working when you left the lot, but it has come loose again.
#4172 of 5136 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Condenser Replacement
Jul 02, 2008 (9:23 am)
Is there a site or link that shows which condenser is for which model and as importantly, how to replace the condenser. I have heard the better part of the dash needs to be removed. Any help is appreciated.
#4173 of 5136 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Blower
Jul 02, 2008 (2:12 pm)
Unusual pattern: Blower will run for 3-8 minutes and cut off. When it runs, it runs on all speeds. When it cuts off, the blower motor feed reads 0V between red and black. Using a jump wire from battery negative side, 11.95V red to ground. If I jump the fan motor, it runs just fine. I can't find where to trace the ground. Any ideas where and how to figure out this problem? Does the ground go through the resistor?
#4174 of 5136 Re: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Condenser Replacement [ceno]
Jul 02, 2008 (6:30 pm)
The AC condenser is mounted in front of the vehicle radiator. If it is bad --replacement is the only alternative. The condenser will appear as a minature radiator. Its job is to release the heat from the cooling process system (as in radiator fin) via the small fins attached to the condenser ( page24-7---- 99 cherokee service Manual) Now if the problem is the evaporator coil( finned device thru which cold refrigerant liquid passes----and hot air in the car passes over and is cooled) is bad---then the dash job is required. The evaporator is located in a common housing with the heater coil assembly---inside and behind the dash----S Swann
#4175 of 5136 Re: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Condenser Replacement [ceno]
Jul 03, 2008 (7:04 am)
First, I assume you mean evaporator. The evaporator is under the dash. I have a 97. I bought the Chrysler shop manual on ebay. In the A/C section they don't give any part info. They do show that heater/air conditoning is contained in an integrated housing. It looks like you pull that out and then hope you can extract the evaporator. Once you have that, hopefully it will have a stamped part number or barcode label. I am not sure, but I think the screws for the dash are not all the same length so you have to track where they go. Good Luck.
#4176 of 5136 Re: Compression Test Low; Options ? [tuggajb]
Jul 03, 2008 (7:24 am)
Thanks for tip. This post will close this thread and summarizes the project.
The following repairs made it run much, much better
1. Service ignition
2. Valve cover gasket
3. Pull throttle and clean; new idle control valve
4. New canister purge solenoid
5. Replace several vacuum hoses
6. Pull intake/exhaust manifolds; clean intake; new gasket
7. air filter
Individually, each one had small impact, but collectively they had big impact.
It still has too much vibration at idle which is probably due to cylinder 2 testing at 120psi instead of 150. Will address in fall.
Had my mechanic look over transmission. It was 2 quarts low !
Now works great. I serviced the pan and the new transmission fluid is not red anymore. It's clear and I am paranoid about overfilling.
Thanks to everybody for their help
#4177 of 5136 99 JGC noise
Jul 06, 2008 (1:37 am)
So I've spent some time searching the web and this forum to see if I could solve my problem without posting...but alas.. I seem to be the only one with this issue. I got my rotors rotated today and when parking my JGC tonight I heard a whistling noise. It almost seemed like high pressure air being leaked out right below my passenger doors. Any clues as to what this could be? Should I have it looked at? Or is it an easy fix?