Last post on May 13, 2013 at 10:28 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Cherokee, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#3536 of 5133 Re: 1997 Grand Cherokee stereo volume fade [arcticdude]
Dec 31, 2006 (11:39 am)
I no longer have my '97 but before I sold it I found information on another site that lead to cold soldering issues with the head unit on these not so great stereos. Try using jeepsunlimited.com/forums for a search on your model Infinity Stereo problems. Most people just replace the system. There are voltage issues that new units cause with these Jeeps too. Log on to Crutchfield.com for the stereo units that may work with your model Jeep. Then search for best prices for that unit if you chose to replace the stereo.
If you have the time and the problem is not in the head unit
you need to remove the headliner from the rear to access an FM connection. I do not have the shop CD with me anymore. But I think the part that sometimes fails at this location is a modulator or something. Anyway it has something to do with receiving the FM signal along with the fender mounted antenna. The CD and perhaps a printed copy of the manual showed the location of the modulator on the passenger rear side inside the headliner.
#3537 of 5133 94 grand cherokee front-rear differential problem
Dec 31, 2006 (6:55 pm)
front-rear differential problem getting hot at highway speeds. also noisy after driving for 20 minutes. anyone have any advice as to how i might fix it?
#3538 of 5133 Re: Mobil 1 anyone? [cdplayer]
Dec 31, 2006 (7:31 pm)
Have a 2000 jgc and have used mob1 for 3 years have 155000 miles on jeep no oil use and go 7500 miles between changes
love my jeep
#3539 of 5133 Re: Mobil 1 anyone? [cdplayer]
Jan 01, 2007 (9:24 am)
Have a 2002 GC Ltd w/V8 and have used Mobil 1 since first oil change after buying new. No problem w/sensors, got 10% better mpg after switch along with improved power over the standard six cyc, which I have had three over the years. Change oil every 3K w/new filter and w 86K, no leaks and no internal loss. Also, K&N air filter helps over stock paper. According to Mobil One site, synthetic reduces engine operating temp about 20 degrees which also helps with extending life of electronic components. Good luck
#3540 of 5133 Knocking sound when turning left + rough idle
Jan 02, 2007 (9:25 pm)
I have a 2002 JGC Laredo, 100K on it, and I have a couple of problems. Hope somebody knows what they might be. Any help will be appreciated.
Ok, #1: After running for awhile, maybe 15-30 mins, engine starts to occasionally idle rough when stopped for a red light. It doesn't do it all the time, but still quite often. I've heard some suggestions, like: plugs, fuel injection system clogged up, fuel pump, exhaust... anybody had a similar problem?
#2. When I turn left a certain way (turning right and then turning left) there's a knocking sound coming from my left wheel. Any suggestions what this might be?
#3541 of 5133 ignition coil failuer
Jan 02, 2007 (7:14 pm)
I own a 1994 JGC with 145K on it. Within the last year it has started eating ignition coils when I take it on the highway for an extended period of time for one hour or more. Believing resistance to be the problem, I have replaced all the plugs, plug wires, etc. and it continues to burn the coils up. Any ideas of what is causing this and remedies would be appreciated.
#3542 of 5133 Re: keyless remote [jeepinjoeszj]
Jan 03, 2007 (8:06 am)
I have a similar problem. My remote would unlock all the doors except driver's side so when i started the car, it would die on me because the alarm would shut it off. I had my 99 GC for about 4 years and it started happening after I had the engine replaced this summer (at a non-dealer shop). Then i took it to Jeep dealer and they said it was the BCM board so they replaced it (charged me $750) and now (4 months later), it is happening again! They are now saying it is a short with the wires and they already charged me $400 and still havent found the problem. Is there a way to bypass/dis-engage the alarm so the car can run? Do you have any idea what can cause this and how they can fix? I am really fed up with the dealer and I really feel like they are taking advantage of me because I am a female. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Sorry the message is too long.
#3543 of 5133 Re: keyless remote [sedenjeep]
Jan 03, 2007 (6:53 pm)
Just don't use your lock switch on the driver door, just manually lock the slider. It will not engage the alarm, so the alarm will not be able to disengage the engine. Yeah, I would be pushing the dealership to take some action or threaten calling the better business bureau, b/c you sent it to them to fix a particular problem and they gave you a particular solution and it still DID NOT fix the problem. Ask for either the problem to be fixed for FREE or for you $1150 back, if nothing else then just labor with fixing the problem for free(and you pay for parts only). If they don't want to listen ask for their manager if they don't listen ask for the General Manager, and finally go to the OWNER, and even then, if he/she doesn't listen go to DC and the Better Business Bureau. Someone will listen along the lines, I know I don't hav $1150 to just throw around even if I did I would still want my money to be put to GOOD use. Be confident and well spoken(and maybe have a little attitude--not too much tho). And to address the rest of your concerns... This can be caused by a few things #1 a bad battery(go to your local parts store and have them check it-shouldn't cost anything at most $5). #2 A short in the wiring in the LEFT door(this is an isolated problem just to the drivers door so they should have checked that wiring harness FIRST!). #3 The switch. #4 The last resort is the BCM(this would have a more widespread problem--more doors not locking). They MAY be trying to take advantage of you, or it could just be they DON'T know what the problem is, and they are charging you for it. BTW most dealerships have a charge just for looking at your car, so I would suggest-Don't go there again, and IF you do make them not charge you for looking at your car until they've figured out the problem(tell them if they can't do that you will go somewhere that can). This should be a fairly easy fix tho, the part of the wiring that bends the most(thus causing a short--break in the wire) should be available seperately. Sorry for rambling. I hope this helps you.
#3544 of 5133 Re: ignition coil failuer [rtribble]
Jan 03, 2007 (7:00 pm)
Though you don't have many miles on the engine you do have old wiring. Check for a short, break, bend, crack or something wrong in the wires running to the coil. A shorted wire could contact a ground somewhere and send neg. and postive feed through to your coil the wrong way.
#3545 of 5133 Re: Knocking sound when turning left + rough idle [matriculated01]
Jan 03, 2007 (7:10 pm)
I've had a similar problem with my 94 5.2-though we have different engines symptoms and cures will be similar.
To #1--Check for vacuum leaks near or on--the throttle body, or the intake manifold. There will be a slight hissing sound while idling.-- Check the PCV vavle and CCV hose, they could be clogged and their only like $5. Check your fuel and air filters. Just remember to check the cheapest and easiest things first, they're usually the first things to cause problems, plus they're cheap and easy .
To#2 sounds like your ball joints may be going bad. Or maybe they're just loose or starving for chassis lube. Have someone check torque and lube your suspension/steering components(these are always neglected therefor always problematic.
I hope I helped.