5133 messages,
Last post on May 13, 2013 at 10:28 PM
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#3221 of 5133 Re: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee--Grinding sound in rear [iblori22000]
by trickster
Aug 13, 2006 (9:13 am)
This sound to me as the rear differential will need to be over hauled. First check the fluid level in the diff, if it is low, then top it up. Try the vehicle again, and then check behind you rear rotors to see if your axle seals are leaking fluid. If you have been running the vehicle in this condition for awhile, then chances are that the damage has already been done, and an overhaul is in order. If you do decide to overhaul, then don't skip on any parts. You will need: axle seals,axle bearings,carrier bearings,inner and outer pinion bearings,crush sleeve, and a pinion seal. This whole kit should run about $300 +/- . You may only have a minor problem such as a bad axle bearing, which is quite easily to swap out, just make sure that what you do to one side of the diff, you must do to the other side.If this is not your problem, then at least you have new axle bearings and seals, and you can cross those off the list. If you need a detailed explaination or a step by step on how to go about doing this, then pick up a haynes manual on your particular make and model of JGC at most part stores for about $20 +/-.
I hope this helps you, and take care.
#3222 of 5133 Re: Bes1501 98JGC [bes1501]
by trickster
Aug 13, 2006 (9:24 am)
There is a small light bulb under the selector, that you need to change. Take your time pulling up the selector housing as this piece of plastic does cost alot, as the dealerships deem this as a cosmetic part, and that costs alot.
Word of warning from the wise, you will see a silver/black box under the center console which is your airbag control module; DO NOT hit,smack around, or take it off, as this has the potential to release the airbag due to tampering,and/or sharp heavy blows to the housing.
I hope this helps you, and take care.
#3223 of 5133 Re: 1997Grand Chrokee stalling fix? [jaquglo]
by trickster
Aug 13, 2006 (9:37 am)
Sounds like this could be an idle air control problem. There is sensor called an idle air control, that regulates the amount of air that is required to run your engine properly. Most times this is located at the back of the throttle body(close to the firewall). Take the sensor off, and clean the plunger and mating surface off using carb cleaner that is safe for fuel injection as well, and also clean where the plunger goes into the throttle body as well as the mating surface. If the plunger sticks, then the engine is starved for air, and it stalls. This quick fix costs you about $10, and a half hour of your time well used towards maintaince of you vehicle.
I hope this helps you, and take care.
#3224 of 5133 Re: New Jeep [wheatley1]
by trickster
Aug 13, 2006 (9:47 am)
The only bad thing to look out for for them years, is the brakes are the archilles heel of the vehicle. You will have to swap out all four rotors with after-market rotors in order to fix this manufacture's boo-boo. They equipped these 2000 models with rotors that have a bad metal composition that when under heavy use, or even normal use, tends to warp the rotors , and any amount of machining does not fix the problem, it only masks it.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
#3225 of 5133 Re: JGC stalling when warm, tachometer goes nuts [jaquglo]
by trickster
Aug 13, 2006 (10:05 am)
Pick up a Hanynes manual and start reading about your vehicle. This manual will tell you just about everything, and anything you possibly need to know about your problem(s) with your vehicle. The cost: about$20 +/-.
I hope this helps you, and good m8.
#3226 of 5133 Re: 99 JGC LTD AC blower motor [clink]
by trickster
Aug 13, 2006 (10:31 am)
The resistor is the fuse(kinda sorta). When you turn on your heater blower on high, you get full 12 volts, and the current bypasses the resistor all together. When you turn it on a lower setting, the current is re-routed through the resistor to lower the 12 volt current to a lower setting to give the slower rpm of the blower motor. IE: a variable speed drill. If in fact the pigtail and connector wires were to touch, then the last line of defence is the fuse in the fuse block, to prevent the vehicle from burning down to the ground.
Sometimes the engineers need time to figure these problems out in order to bring them to your attention; unfortunatly, they do not always find these problems in time, and we the consumers are the ginea pigs for thier experiments in new technology.
Lucky us.
This may not help you, but good luck anyways m8.
#3227 of 5133 Re: JGC stalling when warm, tachometer goes nuts [jaquglo]
by jaquglo
Aug 13, 2006 (4:48 pm)
They replaced my ignition coil and cylinoid which helped but it just died on me again today. I also had my crankshaft sensor replaced. There next bet is my fuel pump.
#3228 of 5133 Re: New Jeep [wheatley1]
by naatz1
Aug 13, 2006 (5:45 pm)
I haven't been on this forum for a while, usually look at the Chrysler 300M forum. I have an 01 with 4.0L I6 and Selectrac; bought new in Dec 2000, now has 73k miles. We have a few problems in first 36k miles including the infamous disc brake rotor/pad/caliper replacements but I barely got my $800 extra invested in the 5/70k extended warranty to pay for itself. Knock on wood the last almost 3 years have been pretty good.
While not near as sexy as the V8, -everyone- with prior Jeeps told me to buy the 4.0L I6 with shiftable Selectrac 4WD. So far I have not regretted it.
Good luck, and I'd suggest looking at 01s and beyond as they shook out some of the bugs prevalent in the 99s.
#3229 of 5133 1994 Grand Cherokee skid plates
by whattodo2
Aug 13, 2006 (6:57 pm)
I am trying to find skid plates for my 1994 GC Laredo. Has anyone else put these on? Specifically I have been advised to add a Transfer Case skid, a fuel tank skid, and front/read diff covers before going off-road. The dealer has the gas tank skid but I am leery of getting something too light weight... but may be forced into this. Also, if anyone has taken this model off-road I'd like to know your experience... did it do well? Things to bear in mind...
#3230 of 5133 Re: continuing brake problems [tst58]
by tst58
Aug 13, 2006 (10:33 pm)
I have about 9,000 miles on a set of auto zone rotors and everything is still fine. Now I am researching a strange sucking or hissing cycle in the climate control system. All the positions on all the switches seem to work fine but I think I have some kind of animal living under the passenger side of my dash. I have seen this problem mentioned a few times but some of the particulars are different. I am going to the dealer August 15 for a system check. I will let you know what I find out. I am so lucky to have a competent and honest dealer. Roanoke Motor Company in Roanoke, Illinois is the best. If the problem can be solved, they will solve it.