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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

4608 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 11:06 PM
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Replying to: deel_64 (Jan 14, 2006 10:08 pm) I hope this helps you, and good luck m8. |
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Replying to: clracing (Jan 16, 2006 4:19 pm) I hope this helps you, and good luck m8. |
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Replying to: canuck905 (Jan 16, 2006 4:50 pm) This sound like your battery is dead, or is almost dead, or your altenator is on it's way out. Take the vehicle(if it will make it) to an auto parts store that will(free of charge, as most do) check your altenator and battery. I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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Replying to: falcon9er (Jan 17, 2006 6:19 am) As for your code p0320, my book read that you are getting no crank reference signal at PCM.... Change your crankshaft position sensor,or trace back the wiring to see if there is a open circuit(short). I hope this helps you, and good luck m8. |
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Replying to: jeep097 (Jan 17, 2006 8:34 am) I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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Replying to: letivaccaro (Jan 17, 2006 2:58 pm) I hope this helps you, and good luck m8. |
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1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Problem: I have had the speedometer cluster and speed sensor replaced by the dealership. And the speedometer needle is still bouncing all over the place. The tech at the dealership disconnected a wire from a (speed) module and the speedometer seem to work fine. But the "taillight out" alert would start flashing. When the wire was reconnected to the module the speedometer needle would start bouncing all over again while driving (the tech tried a new module no change in the speedometer bounce). Does anybody have a clue to what the problem could be or how I can fix this problem.
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Replying to: tommyjeep94 (Jan 17, 2006 6:28 pm) Brakes are a closed hydraulic system, whether if you have A.B.S, or not, which requires alot of PSI in order to work properly. When the vehicle is not running, the brake pedal is hard because there is no vacuum boost assist, and when you pump the brake pedal a couple of times, the brake pedal should stay in one spot when held down, and not slowly travel to the floor.If the pedal does travel to the floor, then you have a brake line leak somewhere. When the vehicle is running, the vacuum booster does just that: it assists in creating enough PSI in order for the system to work properly, in relative comfort to the driver/operator. Changing the vacuum booster is fairly easy, and straight forward. However, if you have any doubts as to the integrity of your braking system, have a qualified dealer double check the braking system. This is the system that stops your 2000lb vehicle from becoming a deadly weapon, DO NOT COMPRIMISE THIS SYSTEM. Also, do not take the brake lines off at the master cylinder, or you will have to "bench bleed" the master cylinder, and believe me when i say: you will not like that Before you do all this, check the vacuum hose that goes to the booster, and see if it has a leak at the fitting, or where it attaches to the intake manifold, and check to see if the hose is plugged. I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
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Replying to: walsh44 (Jan 18, 2006 6:51 am) Check the integrity of the wiring harness plug-in that goes to the airbag module, if all look fine then you will probably have to either have the module looked at by a dealership, or replace the module itself. Do not get a module from and auto wrecker, as you will have the same problem. Sometimes(depending on the model) an airbag module can be flashed(wiped clean), and rebooted with fresh programming. You will need to get this dealt with A.S.A.P, or your next drink of coffee while driving down the road, may come with a coffee cup and a pillow. I hope this helps you, and good luck m8. |
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Replying to: trickster (Jan 18, 2006 4:42 pm) |
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