Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 7:03 AM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Cherokee, SUV
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#2457 of 5143 Re: 97 Jeep grand cherokee Keyless entry module [bigg1]
Jan 07, 2006 (7:28 pm)
Hi. I have a 97 Cherokee also. My shop book says the keyless receiver for the door locks is in the overhead console or dome lamp housing. The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators,relays and associated wiring. The door lock systems are operated by bi-directional solenoids located in the doors. The lock switches have two operationg positions: lock and unlock.
These switches activate a relay, which in turn connects voltage to the door lock solenoids. Depending on which way the relay is activated, it reverses polarity allowing the two sides of the circuit to be used alternately as the feed (positive) and ground side. The book went on to say follow these steps to check for faults...Take out and check the fuses first. Operate the door lock switches in both directions (lock and unlock) with the engine off. Listen for the faint click of the relay operating.
If there is no click, check for voltage at the switches. If no voltage is present, check the wiring between the fuse block and the switches for shorts and opens.
If voltage is present but no click is heard, test the switch for continuity. Replace it if there is no continuity in either switch position.
If the switch has continuity but the relay does not click,check the wiring between the switch and the relay for continuity. Repair wiring if there is no continuity.
If the relay is receiving voltage from the switch but is not sending voltage to the solenoids, check for a bad ground at the relay case. If the relay case is grounding properly, replace the relay.
If all but one lock solinoid operates, remove the trim panel from the affected door and check for voltage at the solenoid while the lock switch is operated. One of the wires should have voltage in the lock position:the other should have voltage in the unlock position.
If the inoperative solenoid is receiving voltage,replace the solenoid. If the inoperative solenoid is not receiving voltage, check for an open or short in the wire between the
lock solenoid and the relay.
Finally, it is common for wires to break in the portion of the harness between the body and the door. Opening and closing over and over fatigues and eventually breaks the wires.
It's always good to have a fresh battery in your transmitter. For our model year (1997) the battery # is DL2016. It's alot to soak up but I hope some of this might help your situation. CD PLAYER
#2458 of 5143 changing the turn signal bulb
Jan 07, 2006 (8:21 pm)
Does any one know how to change a turn signal bulb for a '98 Grand Jeep Cherokee? I cannot figure out how to get to it. It's the front drivers side front bulb. I don't see any screws or easy access at all. Please help!
#2459 of 5143 Re: changing the turn signal bulb [hummingbird]
Jan 07, 2006 (11:10 pm)
This is not as easy as it should be. I changed my bulb by removing the radiator grill. Lift hood. Disconnect the negative lead to your battery to prevent possible deployment of the airbag. Remove two screws on top.
Kneel down and remove two smaller screws one left one right within the grill. The grill should lift out. Next grasp the lower half of the headlight and pull it back sharply to detach it from the adjuster pivots.
Do the same with the upper half of the headlight.
You may be able to access the two screws that hold the signal light housing without removing the side marker housing. If not there are two screws that hold it in place as well. If you run into any trouble check the illustrations in any Chilton manual under the Chasis Electrical section for the schematics. CD PLAYER
#2460 of 5143 Re: Does the 2005 JGC have probems. [gallagher05]
Jan 08, 2006 (10:27 am)
I purchased my fifth JGC in MD, Veterans Day 11/11/04, at the same dealership previously used, but I now live in NC.
The MD lemon laws say the car must be "tagged" in MD; the NC lemon laws say the car must have been "purchased" in NC.
I got the newer 4WD because as a female with aging parents with cancer (1 died in April, '05) and now more nursing home and Medical Assistance details... I wanted a safe car to run up and down the coast in all kinds of weather.(killing me with details: both the medical world & Daimler Chrysler)
The local dealer in NC refused to work on the car "warranty" wise within six weeks of purchase it had been in their garage so many times with the "check engine" light. Between FL & MD, I believe it has been in no less six different dealerships and some of them numerous times.
The front pinion seal was slewing oil: replaced; the 2 up and 2 downwind of the catalytic converter o2 sensors were replaced; the catalytic converter was replaced at 12 weeks of ownership due to a hole in it; the electronic components for the drivers' seat were replaced the same time as the pinion seal. Result is that since the local guys told me to "drive it back to MD for the Pionion seal 15 minutes after telling me that "it could not be driven" I walked off the lot saying I was not going to move the car.
Daimler/Chrysler's 800 number was good at listening but provided no answers.
The purchasing dealership found that the local dealership was lying about me, my salesman who spoke to their service department after declared they would no longer work on my car (indeed they were so incompetent, my husband and I do not understand how they keep their precious 4 STAR rating) and have said so in writing, with no answer from Daimler Chrysler.
Additionally, the purchasing dealership got the 4 Star co-ordinator and district manager in their area involved - after finding that my dealer in NC's district manager had also washed his hands of "this" car. They went through what I understand to be a "customer service" unit in Orlando, FL, who had the car removed from the local dealer's lot and towed 55 miles away from my home.
These were the folks who found the hole in the catalytic converter and these are the folks to whom I now add 110 miles round trip off of my extended warranty, (for oil changes & tire rotations of 4WD)which of course sometimes necessitates returning after necessary parts are needed or "Star on-call" service of Daimler Chrysler puts them on hold for hours at a time. We once had to take the car back - 100 miles just to be told that after replacing the "gas cap" to fix a code on my dash reading "check gas cap" that after it was fixed, then the "check engine" light appeared and the dealer and "Star on-call" not giving them an answer that day - we drove back to find the fix was.... you're going to love this.......... to remove the battery terminals for ten minutes and then put them back, i.e., like re-booting your computer by removing its energy source.
Now, it's 14 months old, with 20,000 miles, was serviced last Thursday, but my complaint of the driver's seatbelt winder not working will necessitate another 110 miles off of my warranty.
It appears to us -- if we understand the Lemon Laws -- we only fall under "federal" laws and... again... if we understand them... it's supposed to be the "same" problem happening over and over again. Thus, we feel we do not come under any "lemon" laws, just a poorly built vehicle!
I love my jeep's handling and what I use it for, but I do not need this extra stress and I feel it unfair that these 110 mile trips are eating into my expensive warranty.
I feel like they owe me a new car... any suggestions?
Since I'm responding to an 8 month old posting... I am of course curious what your problems were and how your case came out? I hope with a happy ending for you, the consumer, a win for more of us! Magothy.
Feeling like I'm in "podunk" in East Carolina.
#2461 of 5143 Re: changing the turn signal bulb [cdplayer]
Jan 08, 2006 (11:22 am)
Wow, you must be a mechanic. I'm new to the forum and I appreciate your help, it sounds like it may be over my head (I'm a woman that is not mechanically inclined) but I will try this afternoon.
Any hints on better gas milage? I do undertand that a V-8 all time 4wd will not get great mileage but I'm averaging 13.7. Most of my driving is innercity (very little highway) and when I do get on the highway I try not to exceed 60 mi per hr because I can average around 22 miles to the gallon then. I bought a fancey air filter when I bought the car cause I was told that it would help, I don't think it has. I've also heard of a certain type of spark plug that may help to gain a mile or two per gallon. This I havn't yet done. Any suggestions? I can't afford to drive it anymore with gas prices so high, but I love my GJC!
#2462 of 5143 Re: Does the 2005 JGC have probems. [magothy]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Jan 08, 2006 (12:01 pm)
You may have other remedies besides lemon law; here's an example from your former state:
spoon2000, "Audi A6" #35, 28 Jul 2000 2:26 pm
Maybe call your local attorney general or consumer protection agency and see if they have any recommendations.
#2463 of 5143 Re: 2000 Grand Cherokee --Dealer Stumped [tank50]
Jan 08, 2006 (8:36 pm)
I did not see a reply to this posting. I'm having the exact same problem though. Let me know if you find anything out. Based on some conversations with some mechanic friends they feel it could be a faulty throttle sensor.
#2465 of 5143 Can't keep my Jeep running...Help
Jan 09, 2006 (4:31 pm)
I bought this 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My heater on passenger side went out and blows cold air. The Chrysler dealership said it would cost me $750 to fix it. That was in November. Since the start of December my Jeep shows a no key sign and when I start it a little while later, It starts, idles up then down and dies. It will not stay running and The Jeep seems to decide when it wants to run and stay running. I can run a few errands and it may or may not start. I was told it could not be fixed and they couldn't find the problem unless all keys won't work. They made me an extra key but it still does not want to run. I've only had this jeep for 5 mths. Help!!!
#2466 of 5143 Re: 2001 jeep grand laredo 4.0 sounds like a ferret [beerasore]
Jan 09, 2006 (4:44 pm)
You may want to check your constant velocity joints on the axle shafts, if the boots are not torn that doesn't mean the cv joints are not bad. While your there, check your bearing hub assembly(where the axle shaft tone ring is), and make sure the bearings are in good condition. The cv joint is non-rebuildable, and you will have to replace the entire axle(s) if this is indeed your problem.(about $125/side)
On the the other side of this problem... you may want to check your diff, to see if there is any play in the gear nest. I just replaced my front gear nest and carrier bearings about 2 weeks ago.(about $150)
If you do go to a dealer for a diagnostic, and they are 100% sure what the problem is.. please post it, and i will try to help you out as to fixing your problem.
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.