Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 7:03 AM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Cherokee, SUV
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#2350 of 5143 Jeep Cherokee 2003 V8 vs. 2005 V8
Dec 14, 2005 (8:43 pm)
I have been driving my 2003 Grand Cherokee for the past 2 years and recently jumped into a 2005 Grand Cherokee (Mountain Addition). I am noticing a big difference between the V8 engines. My 2003 Cherokee had good get up, there were was no lul between gears and it just felt more responsive, if I put the gas pedal down you would fell it immediately. My new Jeep feels quite opposite. It just feels like it doesn't want to perform. Does anyone know why there would be such a difference in power and performance? Is there a software update that will remedy this?
#2351 of 5143 Torque converter lockup questions
Dec 15, 2005 (1:23 am)
I have a '01 JGC 4l It has never given me a problem but out of interest, I ran the error codes from the OBC and it displays a code P0740, which seems to indicate that the Torque converter is not locking up when I'm crusing. How can I check this? Can this condidtion cause damage? The Malfunction light is not on, has never been on except during the lamp check. Transmission fluid has never overheated, as far as I know. I don't get a lot of help from Crysler, they say if the MIL is not on I should quit worrying and wait till my next service is due. I'm losing sleep over this, please help. Thanks.
#2352 of 5143 Re: Jeep Cherokee 2003 V8 vs. 2005 V8 [andret]
Dec 15, 2005 (7:01 am)
I think I am feeling the same thing. My '03 seemed to have more immediate pick up. My guess is that 1) '05 is heavier by about 500 pounds(stiffer body, safer, etc..) 2) suspension is also somewhat stiffer resulting in less squat when accelerating from a stop, which makes it feel like it's slower. In reality, I don't think it's that much slower, it just feels that way. I do think the '05 handles much better though.
#2353 of 5143 2003 Side Mirror Memory
Dec 15, 2005 (9:12 am)
I just noticed that when I push the memory recall or keyless entry the drivers mirror adjusts, but stops in a random place each time. What is wore in there and can I get it and replace it myself? If it would just stay where it is, I wouldn't mind, except that each time you unlock the door, it trys to go back to it's position and usually it ends up too low. I assume there is no way to de-link the mirror memory from the rest of the car?
#2354 of 5143 Re: Jeep Cherokee 2003 V8 vs. 2005 V8 [davidc1]
Dec 15, 2005 (9:12 am)
I defintly agree with the fact that the 2005 has a much better ride to it. Almost to floaty in my opinion. I guess I was to used to the way that my 2003 handled. Thanks for the reply, I was hoping that I was not the only one feeling this way.
#2355 of 5143 Re: Rumbling Sound In Rear Of 1998 JGC [curall]
Dec 15, 2005 (2:09 pm)
In 2002, I got rid of my 1996 full-time all-wheel drive GC V-8 because of the axle and rear-end going bad. Yes, the axle bearings run directly on the axle, which is stupid. At 118,000 miles my rear end was making an awful noise, it was embarrassing because I could not hear people in the cabin when driving down the highway at 60 mph. Mine was the right rear axle and the mechanic showed me how it was litteraly wearing down, like inherent vice. There were chunks missing on the axle. I was quoted $2100, had a water pump going, and my front end was starting to go, so I dumped it. That vehicle was a big disappointment after I hit 100,000 miles.
#2356 of 5143 Re: Rumbling Sound In Rear Of 1998 JGC [gmfan]
Dec 15, 2005 (6:48 pm)
I have been an automobile owner since 1949. Several GM products then Ford since 1965. NEVER have I had to replace any of the components listed on my post in any of those vehicles which were all driven well over 100,000 miles, and in relatively good condition when traded off.
DC just doesn't get it. If you treat your customers with respect and address issues PROPERLY the customer will be back.
Case in point; I sell some merchandise for use in fresh water. A customer purchased items totalling about $45.00. Shortly there-after the customer wintered in Florida and used the articles in salt water. Naturally corrosion occured due to this application.
He came back, 4 months after purchase, with complaint of corrosion of the articles. I politely informed him that stainless steel items would have been a better choice in that application. I told him I would fix the articles at my cost of the merchandise, no charge for labor, and made some other repair he had not requested. He left my place of business satisfied and in good spirit.
He returned 2 weeks later bringing 3 OTHER CUSTOMERS WITH HIM. THEY PURCHASED $150.00 WORTH OF MERCHANDISE.
This type of CUSTOMER RELATIONS is what GROWS BUSINESS. Some times you have to give a little to get alot!!
If DC is really serious in growing their business they should, flat out: 1. Acknowledge the problems; 2. Treat customers with respect (not like dirt). 3. Do what is NECESSARY to maintain their customer base. Other wise, Hello Ford, GM, etc.
Dec 16, 2005 (4:28 am)
I recently had the cylinder head re-conditioned (mill work, new valves, springs, seats, seals) due to a blown head gasket. While I had it torn down I replaced the timing chain and gears and cracked exhaust manifold. Now that its back together, I hear a metal-to-metal knock at idle and under acceleration. It's quite while cruising. When I come to a stop, the idle also drops down to about 200 rpm. Tried a stethescope to listen to each rocker...no noise. I poked around various spots around the block...can't find the source of the knock. Does anyone have any ideas?? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Hope its not connecting rod wear!!! It didn't knock before the head gasket blew.
#2358 of 5143 "96" will not start
Dec 16, 2005 (10:44 am)
1996 jgc 118,000mi,alt was going bad voltage would drop & alt would squel,now it will not start,the headlights work,as does the interior lights but nothing else ,when the key is turned nothing happens the headlights do not dim
i checked the fuses in control box under hood no problem ,i swiched some relays but still have nothing
Dec 17, 2005 (10:51 am)
SXR700 did not say if his 1996 was an automatic or not. if the gauges work but it just wont turn over and it is an automatic check the neutral safety switch connection. The vehicle has to be in neutral or park for the engine to turn over. I have had cars that the cable just came loose and give a similar indication to what you are saying