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#1004 of 5134 Re: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee - front differential problems [philpomy]
Mar 29, 2005 (2:21 pm)
We had a 1995 V8 Jeep GC with front differential problems. The Jeep would "hum" at 55 mph. If you increased the speed, the "hum" became louder. This vehicle was on a 30 month lease. The dealer installed two sets of gears and related parts. The "final fix" was a complete front differential. By the time this was done to the vehicle, the lease was finished, and the Jeep was turned back to the bank. The dealer offered to lease us another vehicle at his cost, but we declined. We had just about enough of Chrysler quality and professional customer service. The Chrysler Rep was useless and VERY arrogant. The vehicle also suffered from electrical problems, and brake rotor problems. The Jeep was a total piece of junk!
#1005 of 5134 Jeep GC A/C
Mar 29, 2005 (5:37 pm)
Have a 2000 Jeep GC that had the A/C climate control "blen door" actuator and motor replaced 3 times by the dealer. Passenger side was blowing warm air. Something has failed again. Firest occurance cost me $600, following 2 times was on dealers warrantee.
I have noticed the A/C clutch only hiolds in for maybe 10 sec's. Two questions?
1. Anyone have a similar problem?
2. Can I fix the A/C to eliminate the auto climate control and by-pass the IR sensors.Thanks
#1007 of 5134 Just sold my 2005 jeep GC Laredo - hated it
Mar 30, 2005 (10:01 am)
In following up to a previous post I made regarding the very poor visibility in the new 2005 jeep grand cherokee.. I actually went out and traded it in at a loss for another new vehicle.
After driving for 1 month I coulnd't get used to it and my fiance' hated it also. Others/family who drove the vehicle said it was so bad it was an accident waiting to happen. I got headaches driving it becuase I was looking straight at the rearview mirror while driving and the A-Pilars so badly obstructed my view.
So on saturday, I traded it in for a big loss (6K) and got another vehicle. I would rather loose lots of $$ than kill someone like I almost did 2 weeks ago because I couldn't see them walking past my vehicle on the right. That my friends is very scary. $6k is nothing when you compare insurance in Massachusetts and if I was at fault for any accident.. chrysler wouldn't do anything and certainly would never accept partial fault for such a crap design..its too bad.. because I am a loyal jeep owner and previously owned two other Jeep GCs.
So buyers beware, the 2005 Jeep GC looks kewl and rides smooth, but the visibility is horendous and an accident waiting to happen.
#1008 of 5134 Parking lights won't work
Mar 30, 2005 (2:48 pm)
The parking lights on my '95 Cherokee Sport won't come on. Turn signals work...bulbs are ok.
I suspected the switch, but the rear lights come on when the parking light switch is engaged. Any suggestions?
#1009 of 5134 Re: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee - front differential problems [philpomy]
Mar 30, 2005 (4:14 pm)
While any failure is possible, don't buy the explanation that "jeeps do this" jeeps use DANA axles that are in many other brands. (in one incarnation or another)
usually if the gears in a Diff aren't set properly, they wear out very quickly because when out of adjustment, they can't take the forces. Since your rig is a 98, it seems that that wouldn't be the issue since it's lasted this long and wasn't humming loudly. Essentially the same front axle is in all wranglers, cherokees and Grand cherokees produced from 1984 on, so there a a lot of them out there.
Another thing that can cause distruction is bearing failure, if you were low on fluid and they got too hot, you can have problems with them failing.
Lastly, Many 98's use a VC and when it fails, it essentially means the Jeep is in Part time, all the time. this can add a lot of stress to the driveline because of binding and will break the weakest part in the system, could be a u joint, the TC chain, a CV joint, or the spider gears) eventually.
But you don't have to have a VC failure to get it to lock, you just have to have different size tires on the front and rear. if you have different sized tires (or different pressures) you will get the VC to engage, on the road, stressing your system over time.
You asked for specifics from him, and you got none! Don't let them be disrespectful to you!
Specific answers should have been like,
The carrier broke, the axle shaft sheared, the spider gears broke, the left side bearings are toasted, etc.
once you know what actually broke, you can look at contributing factors
your $1600 estimate should include exactly what the mechanic is replacing. detailed and itemized.
For what it's worth, resetting the gears for a diff is about $350, labor when the Diff is on the rig at an axle shop. And that includes putting all new parts on while you're setting it up and putting new gears in.
so what new parts are you getting?
new wheelbearings ~300? (prob not needed)
New Ring & pinion ~150? recommended to change if that's what broke.
New axle shafts & bearings <300 may not be needed new carrier <100 may not be needed but is not expensive new carrier bearings <50 recommended to change Install kit, seals bearing etc, <90 required new sealant on the diff cover <$5 required new oil required <10 you probably don't need all that, & it's under 1600. So I would look hard at what they're charging you. Ps, since they have to take so much off,it shouldnt cost extra to put new parts back on. they may be adding new front brakes in too? but I didn't read the estimate. What can you do different? Make sure your tires are the same size. Make sure the axle is full of the right oil. Check to ensure the VC is not malfunctioning. PSS when brakes are worn too much, they make a terrible metal on metal grinding. when this situation occurs, one could probably limp to a service shop, but if there was freeway driving involved, it's safer to tow than to worry about having to have a panic stop and not having front brakes. So the decision to tow is a reasonable recommendation when you have metal on metal because of worn brakes. a brake job with new front rotors and front pads, and maybe back pads, can be done for $500 at a shop. Base on what you said, I would have to eliminate this possiblity of it just being bad front brakes before I get any axle work done. I'm suspisious of the mechanic, because their specific answer was, "when we opened her up, she was in a hundred pieces". They should be able to show you one of those pieces, btw. one the jeep site, there is a place where you can put in you last 8 digits of your VIN and it will tell you if there are any missed recalls.
#1010 of 5134 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee problems
Mar 30, 2005 (8:37 pm)
Here is one for you. I purchased an 05 jeep grand cherokee with the hemi engine 4 months ago. 14 days ago the check engine light came on and to date the dealer, working directly with the service people at DC can not figure out what is wrong. They replaced every possible part and still they are getting over 30 codes and can not resolve it.
When and if I ever get this piece of junk back I probably will be doing the same thing (taking a loss) and getting another vehicle (not a DC vehicle though)
#1011 of 5134 Re: 04 good deal? [qstick777]
Mar 31, 2005 (4:31 pm)
Other than my rotors, I've been kind of happy w/my '04 GC. I've used my 4wd during the winter in OH and had no problems what so ever....... I would recommend getting the extended warranty through Daimler-Chrysler. I purchased the maximum care for like an addt'l 1500.xx but it covers well past my lease.
#1012 of 5134 99 jgc vibration
Mar 31, 2005 (6:07 pm)
Hello, i have a 99 grand 4.7 quadradrive,it seems to vibrate or shutter when turning slowly in parking lots, weird i hade new tie rods put in and alinement they say its all good. any body have any input, HELP. lol.
#1013 of 5134 99 JGC Engine Overspeed
Apr 02, 2005 (3:48 pm)
My 99 JGC (80,000 miles) has run very well for me except for one problem that no one has been able to correct. After a long highway drive of over 6 hours the engine will over speed about 300 rpm and then come right back down to normal engine speed for the speed I am going at. The car shudders a little but I don't lose power during the event. It will last at least 30 minutes and sometimes to the end of the drive.
Has anyone experienced this?