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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair
4590 messages, Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 1:15 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: vstruck (Oct 25, 2009 4:35 am) --find the horn-usually on the radiator core support,and check the connection..hook up a circut tester,..if it lights up,or you get a digital-12v reading(depending on what kind of circut tester your using-the horn's bad..-try putting a hot wire to the horn terminal..if it sounds,then there's a bad connection..chase it down,and fix bad contact.. --autozone sells replacement remotes..you might even try chrystler's parts dept..they can look up the serial number(your V.I.N.-take your car's registration paper into the parts dept-it should be on there..simpler than trying to write it down-and getting a number wrong!) -the v.i.n should tell you every option your jeep had when it was built..most of the grand cherokees i've seen have remote,but why they didn't add remote start?..that's the feature that works for me,as ohio gets cold,and climbing into a warm car is SO O O nice,when it's -20 BELOW.. -good luck! |
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My truck has been out of commission for a while now. I'm thinking that its my fuel injectors after inspecting several sensors. Here is what my JGC does when i try to turn it on: 1). As I try to turn it on it makes a clicking noise 2). when it does turn on the motor accelerates as if i was stepping on the gas and the RPM shoots up. 3). After a few seconds of (step 2) the RPM drops down as the acceleration decreases dramatically to a point were it wants to turn off. It continues to dance on the RPM scale from 1k RPM to 500 4). When i would step on the gas pedal it wouldn't respond only if i were to press it down several times. but it would come in delay periods in between after i press the pedal. 5).Finally it turns off on its own or when i try to shift it to reverse or drive. It be the obvious thing to take it to the mechanic but money is a lil tight right now so I'm open to any suggestions from anyone out there.  
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I found it. Now I have another queston. The leads go upward towards the firewall and between the engine. How do I pull the wires down to get to the end to unplug lt?. Will the wires come down enough to unplug them?. Do I have enought wires before the plug end to unplug and install new sensor? If not how do I get to the plug end to do the replacement? |
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Replying to: jeep323 (Oct 28, 2009 2:18 pm) Just about everything I describe below is in their book. You may spend some $ and get no results, but it should not be big $. Make sure battery is fully charged and tests OK. Where I live, Autozone does it for free. Make sure terminals are securely connected and free of corrosion. The click you here is the solenoid energizing the starter, but the starter can't turn. But sometimes the starter cranks the engine. I had this problem. According to my mechanic the starter develops bad spots. Based on your symptoms you will probably have to put in a new starter. Take a picture of it before you remove it so you can compare it to your installation. It's usually not too difficult. If starter works OK, you can buy an inexpensive test tool that will help you verify that each spark plug is generating spark. I forget what it's called. Assuming spark is OK, you need to check fuel pressure while it is trying to start. Go to harborfreight.com or borrow a gauge. If fuel pressure OK, you have to disconnect fuel line so you can remove injectors. With injectors removed, you can do an electrical test on each injector. Requires a multimeter. My 97 jeep, 4L I6, would start, but ran very poor. I started working on it with nothing to lose. I did every test I could find in Haynes manual. I found several problems. It did not run OK until I fixed them all. It has 170K miles and injectors were OK. Fuel pump was OK. I Here's what I ended up fixing. 1) Throttle was very dirty and black; cleaning it required removal 2) Replaced idle air control valve - if your tachometer is all over the place while your idling, suspect this part. 3) Replaced control valve for early fuel evaporation. If faulty, it affects your vacuum. It's not suppose to open until the engine has generated significant vacuum. Otherwise it hurts your vacuum. It ran much better, but it improved even more after replacing intake gaskets, which again affects vacuum. And yes, the intake will be very dirty. Clean it. New plugs and wires helped, but not a determining factor. If you can do tests that show a part is faulty and you spend $ to replace it, there's a good chance you will get results. But given overall complexity of today's car, there is no guarantee. It takes time. There is always risk you may be wasting time and $. If you take it to a mechanic after you try to work on it, they may not like it. |
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Replying to: ray29 (Apr 04, 2006 9:11 am) |
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I have a 4.7 Litre V8 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Totally out of the blue it threw a connecting rod and the piston went up into the head. We now have to get a new engine. Has this happened to anyone else? Is this common in Jeeps? Do you think it is worth repairing?
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Replying to: pilotswife (Nov 05, 2009 6:47 pm)
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Replying to: rob1231 (Nov 06, 2009 3:25 am) |
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Replying to: pilotswife (Nov 05, 2009 6:47 pm) |
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Replying to: mdjeepman (Aug 11, 2003 10:19 am) |
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