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Smart Shopper Good, Cheap Beater Cars & Inexpensive Commuter Cars - how to find one?
345 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 9:00 AM
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Through graduate school I was dependent on a series of beaters--an '82 Accord, '79 Monte Carlo (Buick 3.8 V6) and '85 Monte Carlo (4.3 V6). Of the three I liked the Honda best--it handled well and was generally pleasant and adequately powerful despite being a 4 cyl/automatic combo. I would've preferred a 5-speed, but it was a hand-me-down so I took what I could get. When the car was new it was terrific, but after 100k miles it was not as cheap to maintain as I hoped. Two major issues: (1) not everybody knows this, but the timing belt MUST be changed every 60,000 miles in order to keep the engine from self-destructing, and the water pump should be changed at the same time; (2) as the miles add up, Hondas have a tendency to eat the little bearings that hold the distributor shaft. Pull the distributor cap off--if there's a fine gray powder inside, the distributor's toast, and it WILL leave you stranded. I sold mine when the distributor was going bad around 150k miles. I also had carburetor trouble, but I've been told that's unusual for Accords. A handful of little problems showed up--the switch that controls the engine cooling fans died, as did the fuel pump, the alternator, and the starter, but none of these disabled the vehicle because I got to them in time. And the power steering leaked, but that's manageable if you just look under the hood regularly and top it up. Yes, parts are VERY expensive if you buy new ones, but rebuilt parts will do for most folks and will save lots of money. The Monte Carlos provide an excellent example of the two extremes GM cars can reach. Both were one-owner cars when I got them, and both had been generally well maintained. But the '79 was never "right"--the valve cover gaskets leaked oil and had to be redone twice, and there were a lot of nickel-and-dime repairs. In one 18-month period we spent $150 a month on repairs (at the rate of one repair a month, regular as clockwork). Oil leaks, starter, alternator, water pump, rear springs (one broke), motor mounts, transmission mounts, etc. All cheap, but rather inconvenient just the same. On the plus side, the only time it actually had to be towed was when the starter died. I got it at 97k miles, and sold the remains at 150k. The '85 Monte Carlo was much more reliable--despite what folks will tell you about GM cars from the '80s having flaky electronics, the only such problem I encountered was a stuck knock sensor on the electronic spark control system. Just add premium fuel and no sweat. I bought it at 56k (!) miles and sold it at 120k. I spent nothing except for tires, brakes, and shocks. By the time I had it set up right, it actually handled well, believe it or not. Looked like Granny's go-to-church car, of course, but it cruised comfortably at 75 mph and got 24 mpg in my mixed commute. I wasn't crazy about the car, but it DID work quite well. I guess I got lucky with it. Stephen somewhere in south Georgia and looking for another good $2000 Honda |
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4WD stick shift. Paid $300 for it 4 years ago, had to put $600 into it right away. Not real powerful, but has low range 4WD so I can take it in the woods. My fishin' car.
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm)
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) I'm looking at purchasing a beater car for basic transportation only. Can anyone recommend reliable makes for this purpose especially those not asking for a premium price? I'm looking for a car or truck under the 5k range with low miles if possible up to 5 model years old. Do they exist? Does anyone have any experience with these kinds of vehicles? How should you look for one? only buy from someone with maintence records? Especially since reliability is the most important factor for me. Some people think I'm crazy, but I love low insurance costs, no car payments, and regular maintence is a plus which you would have to do with a new car anyway. |
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) |
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) Should be in your price zone .. ! Terry. |
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) I agree with what Terry said above (and has said countless other times). Also, you might do OK with a Ford Escort or Chevy Cavalier, especially with a 5-speed; they're not exactly glamorous or state of the art, but you can find one (probably 97-99) for around $5k, and it should provide years of low-cost transportation. |
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) hud 
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) I was shocked at how relatively easy it was to find beaters (a true 'beater' costs under $1000, IMO). I wanted a Honda, Toyota or Mazda for under $1000 recently, I found probably two dozen that technically fit the bill. Some advice from one who has owned many beaters, good and bad: 1. Know what cars are desirable and/or acceptable to you. Don't buy a beater car just because it's cheap or looks good. Even at an advanced age, a car that was a good, reliable car when new will likely be a better, more reliable car when old. Pick a car that meets your needs: reliability, gas mileage, space? Keep it simple, don't buy a 'complex' car when something basic will do the job better. From there, narrow down what kinds of cars you want to look for. 2. If you absolutely have only $1200 to spend, do not look at $1200 cars. Remember, it generally costs about $200 in taxes and registration to 'put the car on the road', etc. Also, it is fairly likely you will have to put *some* money into the car soon after you purchase it. Leave a couple hundred dollars, at least, in your coffers for emergencies. 3. Swallow your pride a bit and accept a car with some cosmetic problems. Last year, I bought a really nice looking Saab (avoid) for $1500 that turned out to be one headache after another. It currently needs about $1500 in repairs just to make it safe to drive. I bought the car for looks instead of for its real purpose, basic transportation. Big mistake. 4. If you find a car you like, don't be afraid to make a 'low-ball' offer. If the seller is asking $1000, it's fairly likely they'll take $750-800, so offer $600. The worst they can say is 'no', and you can either walk away or haggle/counteroffer. It's not that painful or lengthy a process on a cheap car. If the car is too expensive or has issues you can't accept, it's OK to say 'no thanks.' Kinda like with dating, 'there will be others out there.' 4. Have the car looked at by a mechanic, or at least bring a friend who knows something about cars, to look at it with you. Having someone along to offer a 'second opinion' isn't a bad idea, especially if you're an impulsive person or one who tends to make emotion-based buying decisions. |
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Replying to: raybear (Mar 29, 2001 2:14 pm) Above, I said 'don't be afraid to walk away', which is fine on a so-so car. If you see a car you like, even if it's the first one you've looked at, that is remarkably good running or nice and checks out OK, snap it up. In other words, don't be afraid to buy a car that you like. You may look at six other cars that day only to end up wanting the first one you looked at, which has already been sold when you get back to it. Oh yeah, about the cosmetics. I just bought one beater car over another because one was factory-looking and the one I didn't buy had dark tinted windows, non-standard rims and metallic-flecked paint. Classic 'polishing a turd' stuff. Don't buy a car that doesn't fit your personality or one that you'll be totally embarrassed driving. Nobody is in love with driving a beater, but the car need not be 'all wrong' either. |
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