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Classic Cars as daily drivers

552 messages, Last post on May 11, 2009 at 8:03 AM
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All I hear from the 4 cylinder MG, Fiat and other LBC guys is the pertronix is the way to go. Based on my experience and those of others, points are a pita to change on most of these little cars and the pertronix takes that away forever. For example, on my 1973 Jensen Healey, the lovely folks at Lotus designed it such that the distributor (with all the sparking and wiring going on) is situated just under the rear carb (where gas leaks naturally occur in British cars), so it's no wonder most JH died a flaming death! In order to replace the points on the JH engine, I have to remove the rear air filter and carb linkage. The first time I do it will be the last time I do it as I'm replacing it with a Pertronix! Oh yeah, most of them claim much better performance when they change over--of course they're probably replacing a cracked distributor cap and worn out wires at the same time. My esteemed $.02 worth! Enjoy, Hal |
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The Pertronix ignitor is designed to fit in the existing distributor. It's a hall effect pick up. Some models need a magnet ring (some slip over the shaft, some GM models bolt to the advance weights under the rotor) There is a model for 8 cyl GM engines that is a lobe sensor. Lucas distributors are a problem (big surprise) you have to specify the model, CW or CCW rotation, pos or neg ground. They work great. I was in on some testing of the variable dwell model before it was released. My cousin is a dealer check out the track test at www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets |
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| The Prince of Darkness ! | |
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If you want a really comfortable car with guts, get yourself a late 60s - early 70s Buick GS. I picked up a GS350 for $500 that ran like a scalded dog and was velvety smooth. That was in Michigan. Bought a '72 Skylark 350 years later in California for $850 -- same thing. These are the sister cars to the Cutlass and Chevelle, and they give you awesome performance with a Buick ride. They also don't command the prices of the Chevelles. If you want to go whole-hog, you can get a 455 Stage III that'll put you in the low 13s -- but that'll set you back close to a year's salary. The 350 version with cold-air induction will give you 315 honest hp and won't eat you out of house and home. |
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I've only been in one of these in recent memory...a '72 Cutlass Supreme hardtop coupe that the sister of a friend of mine bought. This has been ages ago, but I remember it being cramped. Legroom is a must for me, and I remember it felt like it had less than my Dart. As a result, I've never paid much attention to GM's '68-72 A-bodies. Stylewise, I like 'em all except the Chevies, and I think that's probably because the Chevies are the most common. The Buicks have kind of a classy look to 'em, and the '71-72 Cutlasses are nice. I like the '68-69 LeMans as well...they have a certain ugliness to them that's kind of cool! Common sense tells me I should just get rid of the Dart. After all, it has well over 300K miles on it. But I've had it for so long it's just become too much a part of the family. Plus, in the past, it seems like every time I wanted to get rid of it, whatever I was relying on for daily transportation at the time would die on me! I'm not superstitious, but I think I'll hang on to it for awhile I think for the time being, I'm just going to stick it out with the points and condenser. Considering I've only had to change them 3 times in the 9 years I've owned the car, it's not like it's that big of a hassle! Thanks though, for the info and advice. I'll let y'all know if I end up doing anything with it! -Andre |
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| That was funny..AND accurate! | |
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Mine says "dim" instead of flicker. Must be a later model! Actually, the ignition light on this old Jaguar I'm playing with flickers beautifully every time you start it up, then goes out (phew!) . |
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The shop manual for my TR3 said it was normal to get a glow from the ignition light at a 500 rpm idle. Does the Jag have an alternator or generator? The switch in the picture must be an updated model, notice it has settings for dim and flicker. Off is usually redundant on Lucas electricals, they are usually in that state 50% of the time due to a failure of some component. |
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