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Long Time Car Storage Tips

35 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 11:06 AM

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What is this discussion about? Heating / Cooling, Fuel System, Tires, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Oil, Suspension, Transmission

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#4 of 35 Storing a car by blackbird4 Aug 17, 2002 (1:49 am)
I am leaving the country for 2 years and storing my cars. I am wondering if there is more than just draining the fluids, disconnecting the battery and putting it on jacks. Flushing any systems? Disconnecting hoses?   Any tips?
#5 of 35 Sell both of them now. No storage problems & depreciation. by kinley Aug 17, 2002 (9:11 am)
#6 of 35 by kw_carman Aug 18, 2002 (4:26 am)
What types of cars?
#7 of 35 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Aug 19, 2002 (10:32 am)
Oh, that's a long time to put a car up, but certainly possible. No big deal.   If you aren't going to drain the fuel (which is best), you will need a fuel stabilizer for sure. Antifreeze and brake fluid and oils won't go "bad" but fuel definitely will.   Mostly you should be concerned about how you re-start the cars, since all the oil will have drained off the cylinder walls. I've started cars that haven't run for as long as ten years. All I did was crank the engine with the starter for a while with the ignition disabled, to get up some oil pressure. On modern cars, this might not be so easy to do. You should ask at the dealer or your repair shop on how to safely crank the engine with the ignition system deactivated.(on some systems, leaving the ignition wires flapping in the breeze is not a good idea).    Also, some of your gaskets and seals will dry out, and there may be leak problems. But you could also get lucky, especially if the cars are relatively new.   As for flushing systems, I'd do that after you restart the car and get everything warmed up so you can take a good look at it. If the coolant seems dirty for instance, or the oil dipstick shows any moisture, then sure, dump it out and start fresh.   So all in all, I'd worry more about inspecting and replacing things after you re-start the cars.   You don't have to jack up the car until the wheels are off the ground--just enough to get pressure off the suspension and tires is fine. And the battery should be taken out of the car and stored in a warm place.   Oh, what about rodent protection? Is this an issue in your storage facility?
#8 of 35 storing car 2 by blackbird4 Aug 20, 2002 (1:28 pm)
Thanks for the replies, especially yours Mr. Shiftright.   The cars will be garaged where there isn't a rodent problem. One car is a 1993 Infiniti Q45, the other is a 2000 Ford Windstar.   I will get the fuel drained as well.
#9 of 35 blackbird: What are the costs of by kinley Aug 21, 2002 (3:06 pm)
preparing to store,   2 years of storage rent,   depreciation of two vehicles over next 2 years.   What are the advantages of keeping the cars?
#10 of 35 Costs by blackbird4 Aug 22, 2002 (1:10 pm)
Kinley, I appreciate your interest. There is more to the "Why" store question than I can share here.   I need help with "How" to do it though.   Thanks for your question.
#11 of 35 storage by jgmilberg Aug 23, 2002 (12:49 am)
I do this yearly for my classic car, but it still applies to your car and van.   1-Change the oil and filter, the old oil has a high acid content that will etch things in the motor that is in contact with. That is the kind of thing that can cause you to have big problems down the road, like rod knocks and such.   2-Disconnect the battery and get a battery tender hooked up to it to maintain the batteries in good shape for your return, otherwise the likely hood of you having to buy 2 new batteries after 2 years of sitting are pretty good, but if the batteries are original you may want to replace them when you get back any way.   3-Check the protection level of the coolant, just to play it safe. The '93 should probably be changed because its the old green stuff, and that can go "sour" eating up the radiators, new coolant can still do this, but not in just 2 years of sitting. Cheap insurance when you look at buying a new radiator.   4-Put the cars on jack stands to keep from getting flat spots in the tires, and get a good protectant to prevent tire dry rot. Do your research because some of the protectants actually degrade the tires.   5-Drain the gas out and replace the in line fuel filter. If you disconnect the in line filter and hook it up to a rubber hose you can jump the fuel pump relay and use it to drain the gas out of the tank. Install the new fuel filter, hook up the fuel lines. Pre mix the fuel stabilizer and ONE gallon of gas, dump it into the tank. This will treat the left over fuel in the tank and keep it from varnishing up.   6-Lock up the storage unit and go on your trip.   7-When you return to start the cars, bring 2-5 gallon cans of PREMIUM, mixed with gum out injector cleaner, one for each car, dump it in the tank, check the air pressure in the tires, add air if needed, remove the jack stands. Install the batteries, disconnect the ignition system turn the motor over for about 20-30 seconds to get the oil back up into the motor-if the car has an oil pressure gauge, watch it and when it gets to around normal stop cranking and reconnect the ignition. Now when you hit the key there is oil on the critical parts of the motor and fuel to the injectors, flushing any old fuel out, and vroom it should fire right up.   Hope this helps out
#12 of 35 what about fogging the cylinders? by swschrad Aug 30, 2002 (6:14 pm)
I haven't done any long-term storage, but around here it's strongly recommended you pull the plugs and mist some aerosol fogging oil into your cylinders to keep the bores from turning into a rusty mess. all that rust has to be scraped by the rings and expelled through the valves and exhaust.   for 2 years of being gone, I'd definitely fog the cylinders.

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