Last post on Aug 04, 2011 at 1:45 PM
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Heating / Cooling, Fuel System, Tires, Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Oil, Suspension, Transmission
#1 of 63 '68 Corvette to go into storage
Mar 11, 2001 (10:49 pm)
Please send advice for storage to include engine and chassis preservation. I will be storing my car for a little over three years and need to know the latest techniques on how to keep it in the best condition, inside and out.
I have heard of a foam preservative to spray down into the cylinders through the plug holes and valves. Once the foam is in place the procedure is to turn the engine over to coat the inside of the cylinders.
When the car is brought out of storage, the foam will burn out and the internal engine components, to include rings, gaskets, and seals are still good.
I need the product name, as well as help from experienced people on the storage of a vehicle.
All help is appreciated. Thanks.
#2 of 63 okay, storage for 3 years
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Mar 12, 2001 (11:23 am)
Three years storage is a long time, but shouldn't be a problem for a car like yours.
First, I'd lift the suspension up...not enough to get the tires off the ground, but enough to take the weight off the tires...and then block it.
Then I'd put a drying agent in the car's interior, like they use in boats.
I'd drain the coolant, and plug up the air cleaner and the tailpipe (mice, insects)
I'd disconnect the battery and store it in a warm place
I'd unscrew the plugs and squirt some light oil in the cylinders, to lay on the tops of the pistons...AFT or Marvel Mystery Oil or some other 10W or lighter oil......even light machine oil. And then put the plugs back in, hand tight.
I'd drain the gas tank and run the car until the carburator bowl was empty
I'd wax the car and then cover it with a breathable cover, and even crack the window just a touch.
I'd release the emergency brake.
WAKING IT UP
When you're ready to start the car, you do all the common sense things like put in fresh gas, unplug all the holes you plugged up, install the battery. I'd squirt some more oil in each cylinder (we are only talking about a few teaspoons here, don't POUR it in!) and crank the motor on the starter but with the coil disconnected. After a few 15 second bursts, connect and tighten everything and you're ready to start it.
You may want to bleed the brakes and add fresh fluid.
That should take care of anything.....once she's all warmed up, you can change the oil and filters and exercise it.....it may feel a bit lumpy for a few miles, but it should be okay!
Aug 17, 2002 (1:49 am)
I am leaving the country for 2 years and storing my cars. I am wondering if there is more than just draining the fluids, disconnecting the battery and putting it on jacks.
Flushing any systems?
#5 of 63 Sell both of them now. No storage problems & depreciation.
Aug 17, 2002 (9:11 am)
Aug 18, 2002 (4:26 am)
What types of cars?
Aug 19, 2002 (10:32 am)
Oh, that's a long time to put a car up, but certainly possible. No big deal.
If you aren't going to drain the fuel (which is best), you will need a fuel stabilizer for sure. Antifreeze and brake fluid and oils won't go "bad" but fuel definitely will.
Mostly you should be concerned about how you re-start the cars, since all the oil will have drained off the cylinder walls. I've started cars that haven't run for as long as ten years. All I did was crank the engine with the starter for a while with the ignition disabled, to get up some oil pressure. On modern cars, this might not be so easy to do. You should ask at the dealer or your repair shop on how to safely crank the engine with the ignition system deactivated.(on some systems, leaving the ignition wires flapping in the breeze is not a good idea).
Also, some of your gaskets and seals will dry out, and there may be leak problems. But you could also get lucky, especially if the cars are relatively new.
As for flushing systems, I'd do that after you restart the car and get everything warmed up so you can take a good look at it. If the coolant seems dirty for instance, or the oil dipstick shows any moisture, then sure, dump it out and start fresh.
So all in all, I'd worry more about inspecting and replacing things after you re-start the cars.
You don't have to jack up the car until the wheels are off the ground--just enough to get pressure off the suspension and tires is fine. And the battery should be taken out of the car and stored in a warm place.
Oh, what about rodent protection? Is this an issue in your storage facility?
Aug 20, 2002 (1:28 pm)
Thanks for the replies, especially yours Mr. Shiftright.
The cars will be garaged where there isn't a rodent problem. One car is a 1993 Infiniti Q45, the other is a 2000 Ford Windstar.
I will get the fuel drained as well.
#9 of 63 blackbird: What are the costs of
Aug 21, 2002 (3:06 pm)
preparing to store,
2 years of storage rent,
depreciation of two vehicles over next 2 years.
What are the advantages of keeping the cars?
Aug 22, 2002 (1:10 pm)
I appreciate your interest. There is more to the "Why" store question than I can share here.
I need help with "How" to do it though.
Thanks for your question.