Last post on Oct 31, 2011 at 2:14 PM
You are in the Ford Explorer
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Ford Explorer, Mercury Mountaineer, SUV
#1345 of 3348 2001 Mountaineer
Mar 29, 2003 (6:35 pm)
Hi all, wonder if anyone can help me out. I was set on leasing a new Pathfinder, but those numbers aren't working for me (my dealer marked up every Pathy on his lot $1,895.00 as a "market adjustment"). I'm now considering used SUVs and have been looking at Explorers/Mountaineers. I looked at an 01' Lt green Mountaineer today at my local Ford dealership. It is AWD with the 5.0 & has 24.5K on the odometer. Otherwise, it looks pretty bare bones -- gray cloth, basic single cd/cassette, running boards, roof rack, power driver seat, and dimming rearview mirror, a lttle overhead console with an outside temp guage. Got Goodyear Eagle tires that are in decent shape but not new (original equip?). No tow package, a few nicks and scratches, minor carpet stains, and I did notice that the front hood edge doesn't quite come up even with the fender on the drivers side, but so far I've seen no evidence that it has had body work. Test drove it and it feels pretty tight, except I think I notice a slight pulsation during hard braking. The engine seems to run fine. Going to look at it & drive it again Mon. evening. Ran a Carfax and found that it went into service 11/20/00 and was leased to a corporation as a fleet vehicle. Salesman told me the dealership bought it at auction. Asked the salesman to check Ford service records, and he called me later on and said that a "new transmission" was installed by a Ford dealer somehwere in Michigan at 24,000 mis. I wonder about this, and assume that if this is correct, the leasing company must have had it repaired when they got it back from their customer. The salesman told me his dealership did no major work, only inspected it and cleaned it up.
Haven't talked price yet, but the dealership has it stickered at $18,950. Their web site shows it at $20,950 so they must have marked it down recently.
I'm not too enthusiastic about the fact the tranny has been replaced (with a rebuilt one I assume). Plus the vehicle is a tad rough around the edges. However, if I can get it for a good price and buy an extended warranty, I might take a chance. Edmunds TMV retail is about $17,200 and TMV private party is about $15,800 (In "average" condition -- I don't think this vehicle qualifies for "clean.")
Any suggestions on what offer I should make?. I was thinking $16,500, take it or leave it, and see what happens. I dunno, I'm tempted to start a lower but don't want to make a ridiculous offer. Also, any suggestions on what extended warranty to purchase?
Thanks for any help
#1346 of 3348 re: 2001 mountaneer
Mar 29, 2003 (7:17 pm)
imho: vehicle was a rental. gy eagles shouldn't be on the vehicle. has 4 wheel disks: they all should be done at the same time. how much money are you willing to put in to still consider it a good purchase. if you want a 'pathy' email some other dealers to get a ballpark.
just realized the 2001 was the previous generation style. i had a '97 v8-awd explorer, traded it in with 50k, brakes were still smooth, firestone wilderness still had plenty of tread on them.
#1347 of 3348 explorerx4
Mar 29, 2003 (8:09 pm)
Makes sense that it was a rental. Your right that I could probably look around for a Pathfinder, but right now the savings of buying used is attactive. Problem is that I consistently drive 18-19K a year, which makes leasing less economical. I've concluded that purchasing a new Pathfinder, etc., even for a good price, will be flat out too expensive for me.
Mar 30, 2003 (8:56 am)
you can get a used pathy for about the same price as that mountaineer. I woould probably shy away from this one because of the Tranny. I have seen 02 awd explorers for about 22k. I would look for one of them.
#1349 of 3348 clpurnell
Mar 30, 2003 (12:29 pm)
I don't think I'll buy that Mountaineer, although I get the strong feeling that the dealership really wants to get rid of it. I sure am glad for these Edmunds forums, which taught me to ask the dealership to check service records. The only way I would consider buying it is if I got it for very low price & then I could spend 1K or so for a Ford ESP.
I found a V8 '01 Explorer across town that I'm going to look at this week. There are a heck of a lot of Explorers/Mountaineers for sale in my area, so it seems like a buyer's market, esp. with gas prices going up. I'm scouting around for 02s as well, although most that I have found are V6 and have the third-row seat, which I really don't need.
I haven't ruled out buying a used Pathy or 4Runner. I bought the CR Annual Auto Issue and their reliabity ratings of Explorer/Mountaineers are pretty low compared to the Japanese makes, although it appears the low numbers are probably due to a host of minor issues typical of domestic makes.
Geez, so many of the problems with domestic cars are fit & finish and quality control issues. I wonder why they can't get their act together.
#1350 of 3348 the V8/AWD explorer/mountaineer has fewer issues
Mar 30, 2003 (11:07 pm)
tougher transmission and (through the 01 models) the engine has got over 30 years of experience on it... started as the Boss Mustang 302... and all the flakies and creepy underdesigned parts were weeded out by the mid-70s.
you do want to periodically check the transfer case on any 4WD... I came up with a fair amount of grey in mine last week in the fluid, and shotgunned the TC and the diffs as a result. fluids are cheap.
#1351 of 3348 2002 seatbelt cuts into plastic
Apr 03, 2003 (11:05 am)
I was going to post this in the Ford woes discussion, but I think there are more 2002 owners here. My Explorer is coming up on a year old and on Monday goes in for a 15k checkup. I've noticed the belt cuts into the plastic trim on the pillar pretty good. Anybody else have this problem? thanks in advance.
#1352 of 3348 8 cyc stall/surge on braking Plus V8 Engine Misfiring
Apr 03, 2003 (11:46 am)
I have had this problem only once on my V8 2002 Mountaineer. The engine misfired and died when in idle at a traffic light.
It is related to another problem. The engine "misses" when under slight acceleration. Examples are pressing the accelerator slightly to maintain speed (45 mph and 70 mph) going uphill. Yesterday, it was dramatic as I was trying to maintain 70 mph going up a mountain. The engine died for a moment and than surged with a strong jolt. This happen twice. I have been to the dealer three times. New plugs and "rubber boots" over the plugs did not help.
I tried 93 octane gas and still have the problem.
#1353 of 3348 Rear Window Wiper problems...
Apr 03, 2003 (5:31 pm)
Just wondering if anybody out there has problems with their rear wiper. I have a 2000 XLS and the rear wiper won't go on most of the time. Ford said that there is something with the motor and opening the back hatch. Does any one have a fix for it and have you ever had one apart?
Just wondering if anybody else has this problem. Not sure what to do about it.
#1354 of 3348 ahhh, the wonderful wiper. long may it sit....
Apr 03, 2003 (8:45 pm)
wiper motors have a couple switches with them. in the case of the ford exploder motors, the limit switches don't reverse or stop the motor, they appear in my wiring book to trigger a control circuit in the GEM module that does this.
but the switches still have to be in the right place for the wiper to work.
I have had success in lifting the wiper blade out of its "lock" plastic piece, so it hangs loose. that is called the "service" position. do your errands, and put it back in the clip afterwards... you only have to lift it like the motor turns it away from the lock a little bit to clear the plastic lock for either movement. this appears to shake the wiper shaft to where it clicks the switch right.
I have not disassembled one... but it appears the motor floats in a rubber bushing through the tailgate, and is fixed by a bracket inside the tailgate. watch it as it sweeps, the motor seems to wobble. I strongly suspect you can grab the base of the wiper arm and "wobble" the motor up or left a tad bit on its bracket to reposition it and make a more permanent fix. this is NOT guaranteed, I don't have a body manual to see how this schtick is put together.
after a service by dealer, a lot of wipers skip all over and leave a unwashed gap on the window. to fix that, bend the wiper arm thin section by hand a little bit for more bend (towards the window) until there is enough pressure to work the blade correctly against the glass again. in my truck, the blade barely tucks under the edge of the glass at that point.
these wipers are a little tweaky and finicky, but once I got my factory motor replaced after two months, and hinked with my arm a little, I have had only a couple times when I'd flip the switch and nothing happened. one bump on the road, and it would work again. so it's really close to being right at this point.