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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Toyota Highlander Prices Paid and Buying Experience
4177 messages, Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 5:23 AM
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Replying to: slic38 (Aug 13, 2005 12:13 am)
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Replying to: slic38 (Aug 13, 2005 12:13 am)
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I just bought a 2005 Toyota HL V6 AWD w/ 3rd row seat w/ following options: FE JY TO EH LF CF (Floor and cargo mats MSRP = $199) AG RL WL (Wheel Locks MSRP=$59) HE SR R7 (Rear spoiler MSRP =- $334); I paid the following out-the-door price in Monmouth County, NJ: $30,684.48 Itemized: $29,283 car w/ options and destination charge and all other fees not explicitly stated in the following (etch-in fee, credit inquiry fee, whatever) $1756.98 sales tax $95.00 documentation fee $342.00 DMV new plates, new registration, financing the car ($20 more for financing?) $7.50 tire tax ------------------ $31,464.48 -$800 rebate --------------- Out the door price: $30,684.48 - finance rate: 5.60% No trade-in. Notes: Edmunds before $800 rebate: MSRP: $31,340 + $199 + $59 + $334 = $3,1392 Invoice: $27,705 + $473 (reduced extra options list price by 20%) = $28,178 TMV: $28,937 + $500 (added 5% more to invoice for extra options) = $29431
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NOTE: ALWAYS have an itemized, out-the-door price listing EVERY SINGLE fee and exactly where the rebate is applied before walking into the dealer. Don't even leave the DMV fee as an estimate. Have the finance rate you applied for on the internet before going in. In NJ: 1. One dealer played games giving me a quote - sent the MSRP list. I wouldn't talk to him but instead emailed him saying that I was looking for an out-the-door price, with each fee listed. He left a phone message giving an ill-defined quote. I didn't go with him. 2. Another dealer said that he had the car I wanted w/ the exact options - I spelled out EVERYTHING via email and fax. I went in and the car had a spoiler and pin-striping, two things I didn't want. He started to peel off the pin striping with his nails (probably an attempt to get me to feel obliged to buy it b/c he modified it). He then said we'd have to come to terms on the spoiler b/c it was more money. The spoiler wa $334 MSRP and he came back and said I'd need to pay $200 more for the car w/ the spoiler, thinking that I'd see a great deal ($200 instead of $334). Well, I told him that the car that I had negotiated for had the Z1 (cargo net, mats, 1st aid kit) package ($345 MSRP) which was replaced in this car with the CF option (floor and cargo mats - $199 MSRP) and R7 (spoiler - $334 list). So ... the MSRP difference between the two cars is: $199 + $334 - $345 = $188; therefore, $200 means that not only am I paying FULL LIST price for the spoiler but that I was paying $12 more than full list price! I walked when they wouldn't budge on this or the etch-in fee. They called a couple of times after to re-negotiate. 3. The car that I finally bought the car from had 2 sales people tell me that they had the car that I wanted -- I decided that I wanted the spoiler and sent this dealership the exact specs. When it was time to pick it up, they said 'oops, it didn't have a spoiler -- they had to add it ... took a couple of days'. After coming back with a ridiculously high finance rate, I told them the one I could get elsewhere and they matched it. Then, despite the contract and a few emails back-and-forth, one of the sales people said that the $800 rebate only applied if I paid cash for the vehicle. When I pushed and said that it didn't (in other words, I didn't act like 'maybe he was right'), he pretended to be confused and apologized for the 'mistake'. LOL! |
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metazone: Thanks for the detailed car buying info! Though I pride myself on being a tough negotiator when buying a car in person, for my next car I plan to use the internet as you did to get multiple quotes. One question I have is why one would need a completely itemized list from the dealership -- I'd assume if they listed the options their vehicle has, without assigning specific prices to each option, and gave you the bottom line price that they would sell the car to you for, that would be all you'd really need and care about. Once again, I'm new to internet purchasing, so would appreciate your insights on how a detailed itemized aids in negotiations.
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Replying to: metazone (Aug 20, 2005 10:22 am)
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Replying to: landdriver (Aug 20, 2005 8:31 pm) 1. Price of car w/ options and destination charge (does not include rebate): 2. Sales Tax: 3. Documentation Fee: 4. DMV/Registration fee: 5. Tire fee (in J, they charge $1.50 per tire): I found that they may give you a nice price for the car & options but then try to make it up in extra fees like 'window etch-in fee', 'credit inquiry fee', higher-than-average 'documentation fee', etc. I don't mind if they add these fees to make a bit of a profit -- just so long as I have their out-the-door price w/ all the fees so that I can make a valid comparison with other offers. I found the 'window etch-in' fee is garbage (it would save me $4 on my State Farm insurance per year in NJ) -- one dealer had it as a standard $129; another had it as a standard $299. The doc fee varies, too -- one dealer had $159 and another had $95. Again, the bottom line is that I found it doesn't matter what the fees are -- as long as they list each and every one so that there are no surprises and you now have an exact, bottom-line, out-the-door price for comparison. I made a minor mistake, I think, by not demanding the exact amount for the DMV fee. They had enough information to tell me exactly what it was; they estimated it to be $299 but then it turned into $322 and then $342 (an extra $20 because I was financing??? -- I let them charge me for it). |
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Replying to: yuen (Aug 21, 2005 5:09 am) The first one that I was majorly dealing with was Galaxy Toyota in Eatontown, NJ. If the Freehold one fell through, I would have gone back to the Galaxy one because they were still willing to negotiate. |
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Replying to: metazone (Aug 21, 2005 6:14 am)  (Where would we be without window etching...)
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