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Mazda Protege5

7848 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 4:21 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: autonomous (Apr 07, 2009 2:31 pm) 1) Dunlop performance tires wore very quickly (after 25K miles); BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires have been a very good replacement 2) rust around rear wheel wells; repaired by dealer and Mazda Canada under good will agreement; 3) EGR failed; replaced by dealer (at a moderate cost) 4) Steering rack failed / damaged (at a significant cost); this was likely due to a driving error on my part. 5) Rear stabilizer links failed (corrected at a moderate cost). My overall assessment: feels as good as new and is still a great car!
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Replying to: mustangleader (Apr 22, 2009 11:56 pm) I agree, the P5 is better than the Mazda3; better cornering, better looks, better sound system. Agile cornering is better than anything I've ever driven, including recently a Chrysler Crossfire (Mercedes suspension). I still prefer the cornering characteristics of the Dunlops over the Kuhmo's. Outside of some rear door rust (WI winters), and swarbar links, My 03 P5 still seems fine at 130K miles. Good to hear that at 170K, it should still be solid. Couple of questions: Have you ever changed 5-speed trans fluid? If so, with what, how long ago, did it have any effect pos or neg? Did you replace brakes w/ other than standard Mazda equipment? I've heard K&N filters allow more dirt particles through, possibly fouling sensors. Any issues so far? Thanks.
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Replying to: autonomous (Apr 27, 2009 2:06 pm) This may be a solution for others who spot the problem early and decide to do it themselves. p.s. it is not surprising that cars rust in Canada considering the amount of salt dumped on our roads.
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Replying to: autonomous (May 19, 2009 8:22 am)
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Replying to: iamz (May 19, 2009 8:56 am) Mine, too! It's a 2002 and will be starting its 8th year in two weeks. Municipalities should go on a strict salt diet; it's not only better for the environment it's also easier on the wallet. In any case, have a great non-salt summer. p.s. a friend of mine is still driving my 1991 Toyota Corolla that has been afflicted by the four letter cancer; his solution is "have no shame". It may not look pretty but it's still chugging along. |
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Hey,i have my Mazda almost a year and i love it.I'm concern if i have to change my timing belt. is on 83k?and how much it can be. also when I'm driving with 50mph or over i hear very annoying noise coming from the passenger side. there is something vibrating and drives me crazy. it sounds like the window is moving inside the door but I removed the plastic cover and was looking at it i. wasn't this. removed the whole front door and there is a long, tiny ,plastic part inside the fender separating it from the door.I put some isolation tape and the noise stopped for about a week and then started again.Is it ok if i remove this part completely or the problem is something else.it is so noisy. I took this part out I took the door cover and now driving without it to see if I can find where the noise is coming from-just drives me crazzy |
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Hello! I've been looking out for a Protege5 for a while now, and it seems the price just goes up and up! Haha, well I found one that I am very interested in. Only problem is, it has 130,000 miles on it. Right now I have a chevy cavalier that has pretty much crapped out at 135,000 miles. I know I know, the Mazda is Japanese... But that doesn't mean I don't worry! I plan on taking the car to get it checked out by my mechanic, but wanted people's opinions who've owned the car. It's a 2002 with an automatic transmission. Thanks!!!
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Replying to: layniel (May 20, 2009 11:16 am) Good thinking! My 2002 P5 has been both a lot of fun and very practical. It has nowhere close to 130K miles as it's not used for commuting. At approximately 70K miles it has had its issues (see posts 7811 and 7815 above) but many of these were due to normal wear and tear and the occasional mishap. In sum, one great car! Your mechanic should do a thorough check of the following: - body (check for rust around rear wheel wells, door bottoms and underside) - brakes (all four but especially the state of the front discs) - tires (get a reading of the tread life and when to have them replaced) - engine components (including radiator, battery, hoses) - suspension components (including struts, stabilizer links, mounts) - any parts that have been repaired due to accidents. Also, try getting a copy of the service records showing that the previous owner has maintained the vehicle properly (including replacement of the timing belt and regular servicing). You'll feel a lot better knowing its pedigree. All the best! |
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Replying to: layniel (May 20, 2009 11:16 am) |
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