Last post on Jul 13, 2011 at 1:12 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege
What is this discussion about?
Mazda Protege5, Wagon
#7443 of 7874 Re: new proto5 brakes question, and other... [dwryter]
Sep 08, 2005 (4:29 am)
More so than my '87 Honda Civic Si and '78 Ford Fiesta, the P5's MPG does vary a lot depending on how it's driven.
Most likely it's because of VICS, or the Variable Intake Control System Mazda uses on its engines. VICS uses a damper in the engine's intake to force more air into the engine above a certain engine rpm -- on my 2000 Protege ES it was 3,500 rpm. The added air gives the engine a boost in horsepower, and you can feel it kick in if you're a spirited driver like I am. The only downside is, when VICS kicks in, your gas mileage goes south!
So if you're into getting the highest gas mileage you can right now (and who isn't) ... keep those rpms down!
#7444 of 7874 Re: shaking on highway [autonomous]
Sep 08, 2005 (5:54 am)
bought a 2002 Protege 5 wagon ...needed to change the tires and get a balance, which we did last week ... at 60 mph on the highway it starts shaking really bad
What's size new tires did you get installed? BTW the OEM are Dunlops 5000M 195/50/16
Did you tell the installer of the shaking?
Are the wheel nuts properly tightened?
Any visible signs of damage to your rims?
You may want to ask your installer about an alignment.
Thanks for the input:
Tires has 195/50/16 on them... I don't know much about tires ;(
We told the installer about the shaking before changing the tires...
Wheel nuts seem to be tight...
There ARE visible signs of damage on the rims, and the installer said they are bent but no need to change right away... But I am hoping that is the cause of the shaking and not anything else... I will take it to a Mazda dealer and get a second opinion I guess.... How much would it cost? what is the best one?
While installing they did alingment and everything, put different weights on the rims...
Sep 08, 2005 (8:26 am)
New to the message board. I own a 02 Protege5 and was wondering when I should tune it up? It has 49,000 miles on it. I have a pretty good idea it needs it now,being the fact the manual states to change the plugs at 30,000 miles, which I didn't. Oops. During a recent road trip, the car only got 23 mpg, I would like to know what else needs to be changed? Fuel Filter, and where is it? Wires? Ignition coil? Thanks for the Help.
Also, I was curious if anyone gets a poping noise, sort of like a boing, shortly after starting the car,when the car sits a while. It feels like it is coming from the front somewhere,maybe in a suspension component? Or maybe a piece of plastic changed shape with the sudden change in heat. Just curious if anyone knows the possible fix.
#7447 of 7874 Re: new proto5 brakes question, and other... [mdaffron]
Sep 08, 2005 (10:16 am)
VICS uses a damper in the engine's intake to force more air into the engine above a certain engine rpm
The VICS control is actually accoustically tuning your intake, kind of like a speaker port. the longer curved runners tune at low rpms for torque, and the short ones are phased in for higher rpm torque/ hp. at the two specific tuned points of the tuned intake, you will get a slight forced induction effect. which is why these proto's have such great low end torque, that is very flat up to the 4k rpm peak.
I was riding around with the wife last night, and she keeps rpms right around that 4k rpm mark where all the power is, and where it consumes the most fuel while driving. That may have alot to do with it.
But she also informed me that she exagerated the numbers she gave me, and said she is more between the range of 24-27 mpg, and that seems more reasonable.
#7448 of 7874 Re: new proto5 brakes question, and other... [mdaffron]
Sep 08, 2005 (10:28 am)
Nothing to worry about. Usually the wear indicator is only on the outside pad since (a) the inner and outer pads tend to wear evenly, and (b) you can't see the inner pad anyway.
New pad time!
These pads and rotors are brand new. The outside wear indicator was pushing the clips that the pads slide into the disc. Grinding off the outside wear indicator solved the problem, but there is no way it could have worked, like this was from another mazda with similar sized brakes... and the wear indicator on the other pad is of a completely different design which works fine..... just weird I tell ya.
BTW, how many miles are on the car?
P.S. Get rid of that cat-back exhaust. You're just asking for trouble down the road!
Yeah, I really just want a stock system, but they're hard to come by reasonably. Hoping someone will trade or sell me their used old stock system cheaply.
Sep 09, 2005 (3:49 am)
Definitely replace the plug wires too. They tend to break down over time; at the least they'll rob your gas mileage; at worst they'll get to the point where the car won't go! (I've experienced both scenarios in the four Proteges I've owned.) They should be replaced every 30K to 40K miles, an OEM set from Mazda is only about $60, and you can install them yourself -- no tools required -- in less than five minutes.
#7452 of 7874 Shaking at 60mph on highway [ekf]
Sep 09, 2005 (5:37 am)
There ARE visible signs of damage on the rims, and the installer said they are bent but no need to change right away... While installing they did alingment and everything, put different weights on the rims...
Well, if they did an alignment I'm a bit surprised that they said that there is no need to change the bent rims if you are experiencing a problem at 60mph. It would be like saying that your TV remote works as long as you don't go beyond channel 10. I wonder if what the installers did was a wheel balance rather than a wheel alignment. In a wheel balancing the technician adds weights to the rim to balance each tire; this is far less complicated than an alignment. The other reason I ask is that the wheel alignment usually allows the technician to see more serious problems involving the suspension or damage due to an accident. Hopefully, it's just the rims; Monsieur Meade sounds like he's ready to help there!
... I will take it to a Mazda dealer and get a second opinion ... cost?
Good idea, they know the car best. Ask them to look at the entire area not just the rims to assure yourself what the real problem is. If you have several dealers in your area I would call/visit a couple of them; ask them for their ideas; let them know that you intend to use their services in the future if you're satisfied with their work; pick the dealer you feel most comfortable with.
Best of luck and let us know how it goes!