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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

1064 messages,  Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 5:45 PM

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What is this discussion about? Volkswagen New Beetle, Coupe, Hatchback


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#880 of 1064
Key Fob drama... by mrrk47
Sep 22, 2007 (6:27 pm)
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It's me again with my newly bought used 2001 NB GLS, I really dig this car and no big problems 1000 miles in. But, the brakes still squeal loud, I'll probably have the rotors replaced because my mechanic said they're fine with 80% left, but they squeal like nobody's business!
   They only gave me one key fob, I have no key code....so who will be the 1st on here to tell me I'd better not lose this key because I can't copy or replace ...or am I wrong. Does anyone have exp. with replacing one of these and the cost of it. Can it be cut from the one I have....as far as the immobilizer is concerned can the VW dealer simply reprogram my key fob and one I may purchase....can someone tell me if I;m making sense. Thanks.... and yes I asked if the dealer had anymore keys for my car.
#881 of 1064
Re: Key Fob drama... [mrrk47] by bpeebles
Sep 24, 2007 (3:46 pm)
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Replying to: mrrk47 (Sep 22, 2007 6:27 pm)

There is a wealth of info on the internet about VW/Audi keyfobs.
 
Basically, a replacment needs several steps taken including cutting and reprogramming.
 
 If you have a known-good one, then re-programming it involves plugging one in the ignition and the other in the drivers door.
 
This is another great time to remind others to INSIST that both keyfobs and the valet key is supplied when purchasing a used VW. Make it part of the purchase-agreement that the seller will purchase any missing keys. (Keyfobs can cost over $100 each!!!)
#882 of 1064
Re: Key Fob drama... [bpeebles] by elias
Sep 30, 2007 (9:09 am)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 24, 2007 3:46 pm)

we've misplaced both our 06 VW NB TDI key fobs and are using the valet key now. to get a new key fob it's $280 and that will also require another $100 for the valet key to be reprogrammed too. then when we find the old key fobs they would also have to be reprogrammed for $100 each as well. ugh.
#883 of 1064
Re: Key Fob drama... [elias] by bpeebles
Sep 30, 2007 (5:18 pm)
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Replying to: elias (Sep 30, 2007 9:09 am)

$280 per keyfob is a ripoff!! If I were you, I would do some more research before paying that kind of moola.
 
If you do find the old keyfobs, they should just work. Are you suggesting that they would somehow become DEprogrammed just because you misplaced them?
 
If you DO need to reprogram a keyfob, you can reprogram them yourself. There is no need to pay dealership to perform this simple process.
 
 As I said before... to reprogram , one goes in the ignition and the other in the drivers door.
 
The moral of this story is... The security of a system that makes your car almost impossible to steal also means that lost keyfobs are expensive to replace.
 
Incase you did not know... your RADIO is also protected by a security system. I sure hope everyone has writtten down the code to unlock their radio.... lest another expensive trip to the dealership is forthcoming. (example... replacing the battery in your VW may cause the radio to go into SAFE mode and reqiuire that code to unlock it)
#884 of 1064
2005 Convertible brake problem by hili
Oct 01, 2007 (4:52 am)
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2005 convertible. The brakes squeal like mad when , in the morning, I back out of my garage. Then, they're fine all day long. The same thing happens almost every morning, and only in reverse, and only first time used. The dealer is completely puzzled. So am I. Does anyone else have this problem, and if so, how do you fix it?
#885 of 1064
Re: Key Fob drama... [bpeebles] by elias
Oct 01, 2007 (5:12 am)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 30, 2007 5:18 pm)

hi peebs. no i am not suggesting the existing/lost keyfobs would become deprogrammed just due to being misplaced.
but i understand the fact is that if I get a *new* keyfob, then the two misplaced/lost ones would no longer function, at least not the "remote" part - they would have first to be reprogrammed at $100 each.
thanks for the headsup re Radio code...
#886 of 1064
Re: 2005 Convertible brake problem [hili] by elias
Oct 01, 2007 (5:17 am)
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Replying to: hili (Oct 01, 2007 4:52 am)

hili, here are some ideas:
- think of it as a feature not a bug. some people pay extra to have the vehicle beep beep beep when in reverse. :|
- emergency brake could be misadjusted. if you leave the e-brake on purposely/a-little, does that eliminate the brake squeak.
- a possible workaround is to back the car into the garage for its overnight rest. a possible downside to that is stinky/dangerous fumes in the garage each morning on egress.
none of my 5 VW TDIs had/has exhibited this problem, including 06 new beetle.
#887 of 1064
Oil Light by iheartuga119
Oct 12, 2007 (5:26 am)
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I drive a 99 VW Beetle. It's got about 94,000 miles. This morning my oil light started flashing, just for a minute or so, and then turned off. I'm only about 1500 miles over an oil change. Could there be something electrical that is wrong that would make this light come on? If not, how soon does the light come on and how long do I have until it HAS to be changed? Thanks.
#888 of 1064
Re: Oil Light [iheartuga119] by bpeebles
Oct 12, 2007 (5:07 pm)
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Replying to: iheartuga119 (Oct 12, 2007 5:26 am)

From your description... it sounds as if the flasning oil lamp was when you first started a cold engine. My first thought is WRONG OIL IN THE ENGINE! You did not say which engine you have but you should be validating that the proper oil was put into your engine.
 
As a reminder... the oil light is NOT an indicator of how MUCH oil is in your engine. Instead, it is telling how much oil PRESSURE is being applied to the bearings. If ther pressure is too low, the lamp comes on. Extremely low pressure will flash the light.
 
Make no mistake... the oil light being on means IMMENINENT DANGER for your engine. A flashing light is even MORE severe. Never never NEVER drive with oil light on or you may be looking for a new engine soon.
 
One minuite of flashing may the the equivalant of about 50,000 miles of instant engine wear. (the engine is self-destructing with metal-to-metal contact on the bearings and cams)
#889 of 1064
1973 Beetle Carburetor Condensation Problem by elisa2
Oct 18, 2007 (1:50 pm)
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Hello,
I just had the mechanic put a brand new carburetor in my 73 Beetle and it is hesitating when I try to accelerate in all gears. This doesn't happen consistently but for sure to happen more often and intensely when the engine is cold. The mechanic sees condensation (water) in the carb and thinks that's the problem. He's already adjusted timing, choke, etc. Does this sound right? Should a brand new carb have this problem? The acceleration is also very flat in 3rd gear.

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