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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

1064 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 5:45 PM
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It's me again with my newly bought used 2001 NB GLS, I really dig this car and no big problems 1000 miles in. But, the brakes still squeal loud, I'll probably have the rotors replaced because my mechanic said they're fine with 80% left, but they squeal like nobody's business! They only gave me one key fob, I have no key code....so who will be the 1st on here to tell me I'd better not lose this key because I can't copy or replace ...or am I wrong. Does anyone have exp. with replacing one of these and the cost of it. Can it be cut from the one I have....as far as the immobilizer is concerned can the VW dealer simply reprogram my key fob and one I may purchase....can someone tell me if I;m making sense. Thanks.... and yes I asked if the dealer had anymore keys for my car.
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Replying to: mrrk47 (Sep 22, 2007 6:27 pm) Basically, a replacment needs several steps taken including cutting and reprogramming. If you have a known-good one, then re-programming it involves plugging one in the ignition and the other in the drivers door. This is another great time to remind others to INSIST that both keyfobs and the valet key is supplied when purchasing a used VW. Make it part of the purchase-agreement that the seller will purchase any missing keys. (Keyfobs can cost over $100 each!!!)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 24, 2007 3:46 pm)
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Replying to: elias (Sep 30, 2007 9:09 am) If you do find the old keyfobs, they should just work. Are you suggesting that they would somehow become DEprogrammed just because you misplaced them? If you DO need to reprogram a keyfob, you can reprogram them yourself. There is no need to pay dealership to perform this simple process. As I said before... to reprogram , one goes in the ignition and the other in the drivers door. The moral of this story is... The security of a system that makes your car almost impossible to steal also means that lost keyfobs are expensive to replace. Incase you did not know... your RADIO is also protected by a security system. I sure hope everyone has writtten down the code to unlock their radio.... lest another expensive trip to the dealership is forthcoming. (example... replacing the battery in your VW may cause the radio to go into SAFE mode and reqiuire that code to unlock it)
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2005 convertible. The brakes squeal like mad when , in the morning, I back out of my garage. Then, they're fine all day long. The same thing happens almost every morning, and only in reverse, and only first time used. The dealer is completely puzzled. So am I. Does anyone else have this problem, and if so, how do you fix it?
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 30, 2007 5:18 pm) but i understand the fact is that if I get a *new* keyfob, then the two misplaced/lost ones would no longer function, at least not the "remote" part - they would have first to be reprogrammed at $100 each. thanks for the headsup re Radio code... |
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Replying to: hili (Oct 01, 2007 4:52 am) - think of it as a feature not a bug. some people pay extra to have the vehicle beep beep beep when in reverse. :| - emergency brake could be misadjusted. if you leave the e-brake on purposely/a-little, does that eliminate the brake squeak. - a possible workaround is to back the car into the garage for its overnight rest. a possible downside to that is stinky/dangerous fumes in the garage each morning on egress. none of my 5 VW TDIs had/has exhibited this problem, including 06 new beetle. |
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I drive a 99 VW Beetle. It's got about 94,000 miles. This morning my oil light started flashing, just for a minute or so, and then turned off. I'm only about 1500 miles over an oil change. Could there be something electrical that is wrong that would make this light come on? If not, how soon does the light come on and how long do I have until it HAS to be changed? Thanks.
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Replying to: iheartuga119 (Oct 12, 2007 5:26 am) As a reminder... the oil light is NOT an indicator of how MUCH oil is in your engine. Instead, it is telling how much oil PRESSURE is being applied to the bearings. If ther pressure is too low, the lamp comes on. Extremely low pressure will flash the light. Make no mistake... the oil light being on means IMMENINENT DANGER for your engine. A flashing light is even MORE severe. Never never NEVER drive with oil light on or you may be looking for a new engine soon. One minuite of flashing may the the equivalant of about 50,000 miles of instant engine wear. (the engine is self-destructing with metal-to-metal contact on the bearings and cams) |
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Hello, I just had the mechanic put a brand new carburetor in my 73 Beetle and it is hesitating when I try to accelerate in all gears. This doesn't happen consistently but for sure to happen more often and intensely when the engine is cold. The mechanic sees condensation (water) in the carb and thinks that's the problem. He's already adjusted timing, choke, etc. Does this sound right? Should a brand new carb have this problem? The acceleration is also very flat in 3rd gear. |
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