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Hatchbacks Volkswagen Beetle Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair
1064 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 5:45 PM
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Replying to: ldawson18 (Jun 29, 2007 6:11 am) Many folks forget about the one on the hood latch when they are trouble shooting this kind of problem.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Jun 29, 2007 4:07 pm) You never got good results putting a single contact 1156 inplace of a dual contact 1157 or vice versa. Little more research, I think you may have pointed to the wrong link. The P21W 24V 21W BA15D ECE, is the dual contact, filament bulb and is called for. It actually is a direct replacement for 1157's. Sorry. But I'm anal.
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Replying to: aaronr121 (Jun 29, 2007 4:43 pm) Since I have 3 VWs in the family (Jetta, Gulf and NB), it is easy to get some of the specifics mixed up.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Jun 29, 2007 5:15 pm) Anyway have a question regarding the 2.0 engine. I've read and heard owners say they have oil consumption problems. Most of the problems date back to when the car was new. What's the issue? Just curious. The 2.0, in ours, seemed like a very good solid motor. After about 70k occasionaly I'd add 1/2 to a quart of oil between changes. Usually after long highway (4 hours or more) trips. It's never seemed excessive. Now that we are close to hitting 170k, it's pretty consistent that I add oil between 5k oil changes. Seems like the cars are hit or miss. You get a decent one, or you get a horrible one. The one spot that seems a consistent negative is interiour materails. While the interiour doesn't look bad, things started breaking as soon as the 24k warranty was out. Right now all cup holders are broke (they are $35 each at the dealer and I haven't found any used yet), glove box latch broke 3 years ago, the passenger side window trim fell of the rubber seal (drivers side did too at 30k and replaced that), button on the parking brake handle broke, after replacing it once, 3 years ago, and the driver side vanity mirror flap falls off. I keep waiting for the local U-pull it's to get Beetles in, they are near the 10 year mark and they usually carry vehicles 7 years old or older. Other than consistent and reoccuring A/C problems (expansion valve, temp. cut off switch, and now compressor), the cars not to bad. Typically get a combined 28-30 mpg and have hit 35 mpg in pure highway driving. Only ever had a check engine light once (bad mass air meter). Few other minor problems (notably bad relay for the air pump) but nothing horrid. After 170k, car still drives well. That aspect has held up. It hasn't turned into a crappy, noisy, vibrating little heap of pooh! So, good body intergrity!
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I bought my '03 TDI Beetle in April and now have driven enough miles for the first oil change. I have heard that the CI-4 oil is good to use but have also heard that it is not. What is everyone using out there? I will be doing my own changes and would prefer the best oil I can get for my TDI. Any suggetstons would be greatly appreciated. By the way, the odometer is now at 90,000 miles.
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Replying to: aaronr121 (Jun 30, 2007 4:37 am) 1) There was a run of engines with the oil-control rings installed upside-down on the pistons. 2) Babying the engine during breakin can cause glazed cylinder-walls that do not seal well agains the rings. 3) Oil getting sucked thru the PCV system at highway speeds. (usualy due to blowby caused by one of the above 2 reasons.) Each of my 2 daughters have a 2001 VW, one consumes oil and the other one does not. Like you said, it is essentually a crap-shoot when purchasing a used VW from the (2000 - 2001) years. Choice of oil also plays a part in how much gets consumed. As I have said before, oil-consumption IS NOT a big deal as long as one checks the oil and tops off when needed. On the other hand -- Allowing the oil to get so low that the oil-pressure light come on is asking for trouble.
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Replying to: oldbug (Jul 01, 2007 9:32 am) You DO NOT have the "Pumpe Duse" engine so your oil-requirements are not as stringant as the newer TDIs. Here are some oils which are availabe in North ameraica which you may use. MOBIL DELVAC1 5W40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W40 (Wallmart) Pentosynth 505.00 5W40 Elf Excellium DID 5w40 In a pinch, you could use ROTELLA T Synthetic 5w40 (Wallmart) Here is a list of approved oils. Here is some MOR OIL INFO Personally, for my 2003, I usually order an oil-change "kit" that has oil and filter in one package. |
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Replying to: bpeebles (Jul 01, 2007 5:35 pm) I always wondered if new owners not checking their oil, assuming a new car doesn't need to have it's oil checked, was part of the issue. |
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Replying to: pocahontas (Mar 05, 2001 1:05 am) About two months ago, I noticed a loud, scary whirring or flapping noise coming from my engine compartment. Took it to West Houston VW-and they told me it was the Serpentine belt tensioner. Along with fixing that, they also fixed the alternator pully and two sensors. 300 miles later-the alternator pulley that they just replaced seized up and took out my power steering pump AND my power steering pulley. Because it was a part failure-you would assume that VW would take care of the costs. NOPE. I had to shell out an extra 500 bux for a new power steering pump and pulley. I pity the person who has to go through VW Corporate. They simply don't care. The dealership had my car for 4 days because no one at corporate would return their calls. I needed my car-so I had to pay for the repair without talking to corporate. It's been 2 months-and they still havn't returned my call. Two weeks ago-I noticed that I was losing acceleration. It took me a long time to get up to speed (longer than usual) and when I hit a hill I lost HP-about 5-10 MPH. Since learning my lesson with VW dealerships, I took it to a diesel mechanic in Houston that I had heard about and he repaired the Mass Airflow Sensor. He only charged me around 300 for this fix, so I have no problem. My problem is this...the mass airflow sensor drastically effects the driveability of the car-but when I was having this problem, the check engine light DID NOT come on. Has anyone else been having as many problems as I have? I have put around $5,000 in my car for repairs in the past 3 years-and I am regreting buying a TDI.
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Replying to: alisonf6 (Jul 02, 2007 1:20 pm) Your description of the problems seems to have some holes in it. (Like how in the world can a "alternator pulley that they just replaced seized up and took out my power steering pump AND my power steering pulley.") I suspect you were 'rooked', or perhaps you ignored other warning sounds before the original problem occoured. This is because the alternator pullys are KNOWN to get noisy (squeeky) for awhile before they come apart. Also, I am not sure how you think VW should pay for anything more than the failed part. Virtually EVERY lawyer-written document I have ever seen speaks of "limited liability" in reguards to incitental damage. In reguards to you apparently ignoring your car then complain when it needs some repairs.... check your intake manifold and showscreen to see if they need to be cleaned.... YOU HAVE BEEN FORWARNED! Please dont try to blame your car or VW when you have ignored the needs of a Volkswagen to be cared for. There is a LOT more than fuel and oil needed to keep a German roadcar healthy. Personally, I think that 108,000 miles is a long ways for any car. If you do not expect to put some money in to it, then the fault lies NOT in the car. There was a time not long ago that most cars were ready for the junkyard after about 60,000 miles!! If you want a car that is designed to be ignored.... consider a Toyota. Also be prepared to drive a booring car.
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