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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

1064 messages,  Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 5:45 PM

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What is this discussion about? Volkswagen New Beetle, Coupe, Hatchback


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#739 of 1064
Re: Cold engine light [bpeebles] by odude
Feb 10, 2007 (9:28 pm)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Feb 10, 2007 4:13 pm)

Thanks for the heads up. Every other car I have owned, which were not VWs, always preferred at startup to make sure that the engine was started and warmed before driving. My fault for not realizing that the mechanic who told me to warm up my engine and not drive until that light went off was actually a mechanic at the dealership I purchased the Beetle Turbo S (CARMAX).
 
I am very appreciative that you corrected me and I am sure I am not the only owner who has been told about this incorrect way of starting the Beetle.
 
You are correct about the manual indicating that idle engine warm up is not recommended. I know very few people who read their manuals with such attention, and though I read through the manual the first day I purchased it, I can see I missed a few things and will reread carefully the manual.
#740 of 1064
problem with 99 vw beetle by avp2007
Feb 15, 2007 (5:56 pm)
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I have a 99 vw beetle 5 speed. Whenever i start off in first gear and second gear my car tries to go dead and sometimes completely does.. i dont know if it could be the clutch or fuel filter...if anyone has any idea let me know.
thanks
#741 of 1064
Re: Cold engine light [odude] by irishbeetle
Feb 20, 2007 (2:50 pm)
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Replying to: odude (Feb 09, 2007 2:09 am)

My 2002 Beetle's EPC light kept coming on, had it changed, and now, 4 months later, it's on again, and it's drained my battery. This I can tell you from lots of previous experience. Install the 'rear brake light switch' light yourself. It's only $11.00 at your local VW dealership and they will give you simple directions on how to install it. A woman can do it (I did). If you are in a jam, and you can't get out of park, do this all at once: slowly start the car with one hand, take the car out of park to reverse with the other hand while at the same time taking one foot off the brake onto the gas. It sounds like a lot, but you can do it, and it will save you in a jam. I have no idea what the dealership will charge you to install the brake switch, but at $11.00, you or someone good with their hands can do it!! If you have to get a battery, they are expensive. Do it before you need a battery. Hope this helps!!
#742 of 1064
malfunction indicator lamp by zigzag2
Mar 04, 2007 (4:13 pm)
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i have a 2001 beetle and i started my car and the malifunction indicator lamp (MIL) lighted up at the dashboard and it took me maybe 30 seconds to start up my car and at the same time noticed that the fuel gauge was way pass the full tank level. please advise on what to do. thanks
#743 of 1064
Fuel filler release problem by bfish2
Mar 13, 2007 (4:22 pm)
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My fuel filler door won't open on my 1999 beetle. It's been acting up for months, now it won't work at all. I've been told there is a manual release inside the trunk. Can anyone tell me where it is? What needs to be removed to get to it?
#744 of 1064
Re: After Brake Light Switch Recall Was Fixed... [groebner] by aaronr121
Mar 17, 2007 (4:51 am)
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Replying to: groebner (Feb 02, 2007 4:16 pm)

Wow... I've been sitting on this recall notice for quite awhile. Is this a common occurence with this repair? If it is, I don't want the repair done.
#745 of 1064
Re: Fuel filler release problem [bfish2] by aaronr121
Mar 17, 2007 (5:00 am)
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Replying to: bfish2 (Mar 13, 2007 4:22 pm)

I think I saw it once or twice. I think it's underneath the carpet. Just take a look on the passenger side of the car and you'll find it.
#746 of 1064
Re: Fuel filler release problem [aaronr121] by bfish2
Mar 20, 2007 (3:29 pm)
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Replying to: aaronr121 (Mar 17, 2007 5:00 am)

Found it on the passenger side in the trunk compartment up above the carpet. Pry'd off a round plastic insert. Reached inside, yanked the cable and it popped open. Thanks.
#747 of 1064
more mutliple issues with a 2000 GLx bug... by manybrews
Mar 20, 2007 (5:04 pm)
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Well, ive searched all over this and other forums, and I keep getting SOME similar answers, but not enough.
I, like many, have issues with my beetle. The first is that the "blue" coolant light always stays on, regardless of engine temp (it IS at proper operating temp). once in a great while, the light will go out, but generally only for a few minutes.
the second is that although the engine is quite full of oil and only has 60k on it, the oil light will blink at me at random times.
Third, the EPC light comes on occasionally, but its NOT the brake switch, as its already had the recall done (twice, I believe) and the brake lights work fine. There are a few trouble codes stored relating to it, but the information I have is limited.
After doing as much research as I could online, Ive found that the probable failure for the coolant light is probably the coolant temp sensor, although the light does NOT shut off when the sensor is unplugged (although that may in fact be normal).
Ive found many, many complaints about massive oil sludging on the 1.8 turbo, causing the oil light issue (although the actual oil pressure has not been tested yet).
Ive found thousands of complaints about the brake light switch effecting the EPC light, but that is not the case in this situation.
 
how many people here have similar issues, and what did you find to resolve them? Chances are im just gonna throw an oil pressure sensor and coolant temp sensor at it, as they're reasonably cheap.. but that still leaves me with a failing throttle actuator, or something more sinister.
 
Has anyone here dealt with anything like this?
#748 of 1064
Re: more mutliple issues with a 2000 GLx bug... [manybrews] by jasmith52
Mar 21, 2007 (1:34 pm)
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Replying to: manybrews (Mar 20, 2007 5:04 pm)

ManyBrews:
 
I am not specifically familiar with your exact problem. However I will say this about electrical problems in general. They can be difficult to diagnose and expensive to repair. It just may be that you will buy and install an oil pressure sensor and a coolant temperature sensor and have the same problem. Meanwhile you've just spent $150 for zip.
 
Just maybe it would be worthwhile to have a mechanic with a code scanner diagnose the problem. That may indeed be the cheaper solution. Keep in mind that electrical components are not returnable.
 
I like you, had to learn the hard way and pay for my mistakes.

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