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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

1140 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 6:52 PM

You are in the Volkswagen Beetle Forum.

What is this discussion about? Volkswagen New Beetle, Coupe, Hatchback

    
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Messages Page 46 of 115

#444 of 1140 Re: vw new beetle tdi reliability [mixuone] by empi

Oct 25, 2005 (7:39 pm)

Replying to: mixuone (Oct 25, 2005 1:46 pm)
Hi. I wish I had known about this forum before I bought my 2004 Beetle Convertible GLS Turbo 0 Automatic Tiptronic. I bought it through a friend of my boss who had bought it for his wife for Mother's Day in 2004. 6 Months later she was tired of it and bought a Mercedes CLK convertible. I happened to be in the market for another car as my 95 Mercedes E320 was starting to cost a lot of money in repairs. The car only had 6600 miles on it and considering the high blue book was over $25,000, I only paid $21,700 for the car. Now for the problem. My car is getting only 16 miles per gallon city driving which is the kind of driving I do. My commute is 12 miles roundtrip. I have consistently checked the mileage and it is always around 15.59 or 16. 2 miles per gallon. I took it out on the highway set the cruise control to 65 mph and only got 20 miles to the gallon. I had a Fuel Consumption Test done by the dealer and they said the computer shows "no faults" which means everything is operating correctly and basically there is nothing they can do. The brochures say it is supposed to get 22 city and 20 highway. I realize those are EPA estimates and do vary and in fact, most people I know no matter what kind of car they have do not get the mileage advertised. However, I think 16 mpg is very poor mileage and I am ready to sell the car. I only have 7400 miles on it but after reading about all the other problems these cars seem to have, I am sorry I bought it.
 
Does anyone out there have a Turbo Convertible Automatic Tiptronic who is having similar problems. They say misery loves company. I have a friend with a regular Beetle and a Turbo and he said he is barely getting 18 mpg. Everyone tells me the turbo uses more gas. Well if that is true then why are they advertising 22 city and 29 Highway.
 
I have had only one other problem and the airbag safety light guy came on and wouldn't go off. They said they had to replace the whole part which is located under the front bumper of the car. It was covered by the warranty. However, I am seriously thinking of cutting my losses and dumping the car. It is gorgeous to look at. It is fully loaded. It has the leather seats, dual front and dual side airbags, leather trim. The original owner paid almost $29,000 for the car. I think this is one very overpriced vehicle.
 
Incidentally, I just shot off a letter to VW expressing my disappointment over the lousy mileage. I don't expect any results but I did get it off my chest.
 
Anyone who would like to respond - all replies will be welcome.

#445 of 1140 Re: 2000 Beetle over heating [pugbug] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Oct 26, 2005 (1:55 pm)

Replying to: pugbug (Oct 25, 2005 3:11 pm)
If a car overheats when being driven but not when idling it is usually indicative of a coolant flow problem. If it overheats when idling, then it's an air flow problem.
 
A bad head gasket doesn't always mix coolant with oil BTW. Sometimes you'll find instead that combustion gases are in the coolant (which you can check for with a simple testing device).

#446 of 1140 Re: 2000 Beetle over heating [pugbug] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Oct 26, 2005 (1:55 pm)

Replying to: pugbug (Oct 25, 2005 3:11 pm)
If a car overheats when being driven but not when idling it is usually indicative of a coolant flow problem. If it overheats when idling, then it's an air flow problem.
 
A bad head gasket doesn't always mix coolant with oil BTW. Sometimes you'll find instead that combustion gases are in the coolant (which you can check for with a simple testing device).
 
Another tipoff for head gasket might be pressure in your coolant overflow tank.

#447 of 1140 Timing Belt by kst

Oct 27, 2005 (8:31 am)

I just had the timing belt on my 99 VW beetle replaced 3 months ago, and yesterday it broke. The mechanic said that I may have to pay for it if some other problem besides a bad belt made the belt go . . . what could have made the timing belt go? Also, my friend just had her timing belt go, and she had to get a whole new engine. I just want to know as much about this as possible before I talk to the mechanic again.

#448 of 1140 Re: Timing Belt [kst] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Oct 27, 2005 (9:13 am)

Replying to: kst (Oct 27, 2005 8:31 am)
This could be a tricky situation. Make careful notes of anything he tells you and take a digital camera if he shows you any defective parts. Keep copies of all repair orders and also find out how to file in Small Claims Court, should it come to that.

#450 of 1140 Re: cutting remotes [sector1] by hoover1

Oct 28, 2005 (5:17 pm)

Replying to: sector1 (Sep 21, 2005 12:12 am)
This worked great for my 2000 beetle, the new remote works fine operates everything except.....the car will not run with the new key, it starts but immediately dies. what could I try next?

#451 of 1140 Re: cutting remotes [sector1] by gerziebaker

Oct 29, 2005 (7:26 am)

Replying to: sector1 (Oct 23, 2005 8:08 am)
Sorry for the confusion and the delay in replying.
 
1. My car is a 2000 New Beetle.
 
2. I purchased the remote on ebay. New old stock with an uncut key. It was sold as fitting 1999 & 2000 models. The bar code sticker was still attached. It is as follows: 1J0 959 753F/5FA 8137-30B. The only difference between the blades that I can tell is that the valet key has NAA stamped on it, and the new switchblade key has HAA stamped on it.
 
3. The dealer cut the key using the valet key that came with the car. This was the only key that I received with the car. When I told him that I would program it myself is when he showed me the brochure and told me that I needed him to program it. I drove home using the valet key. I then programmed the remote using your instructions. The doors will lock and unlock and the trunk release works. However, when I attempt to start the car it will crank, start momentarily, and the shut off.
 
Any additional information will be greately appreciated.

#453 of 1140 Re: cutting remotes [gerziebaker] by sector1

Oct 30, 2005 (6:23 pm)

Replying to: gerziebaker (Oct 29, 2005 7:26 am)
It's ok. Here are tips I hope everybody understands. I will make the following comments to help your specific cases:
 
Your cars are equipped with immobilizer systems but not all of them, 1998 and early 1999 do not. Mine is a 1999.5 and there is no immo. so I was in luck with my procedure. Starting 1999.5 late year, the cars came with it so your problem is simple, your immo does not recognize the blade and shuts the engine off exactly like opening a door with a remote and not actually getting in the car, the immo will lock them after a short 2-3 minutes. Immo models 2 and 3 are on the market depending on the year of the car.
 
Switchblades you bought are of several types and several years. I will break them down for you following this. One other thing, VAG-COM is a tool that the dealer uses to make the immo car recognize the new switchblade and thus prevent shut-offs.
 
Here we go:
 
 Key remote replacement for 1999.5 – early 01 models
 
For those who are using the old style key and wish to switch using the new style ones, please note that there are two different versions of the new style keys out there with different part #s. Both versions of the new style keys look exactly identical, but only one of them works with cars that originally came with the old style keys. For reference, the following are the part #s of all switchblade remotes for the mk4s:
 
Old style:
1J0 959 753 F -- (for immobilizer 2)
 
New style:
1J0 959 753 T -- (for immobilizer 2)
1J0 959 753 AM -- (for immobilizer 3)
 
If you’re sure that your car originally came with the old style keys, then you would know that your car is equipped with immobilizer 2 (except 1999.5 models which are not immobilizer equipped). So to switch using a new style key, the one with part # 1J0 959 753 T would be the right one you need, since it works with immobilizer 2 equipped mk4s (as well as the immobilizer unequipped 1999.5 models).
 
Key remote replacement for 2001 – 04 models
 
Please refer to the previous section for the part # of the key remote for your car, just make sure the replacement you’re getting is compatible with your immobilizer. For those with 2001 models, please note that VAG was making a transition with the immobilizer type during the model year, from immobilizer 2 to the more advanced immobilizer 3. So double-check your type of immobilizer equipped before obtaining a replacement. For those with model year 2001.5 and newer, your car comes with immobilizer 3. In any case, you can play it safe by getting a replacement key remote that has the same part # as the ones that originally came with your car
 
Matching your key to the immobilizer…
 
As mentioned, you must do this with a VAG-COM or ask your dealer to do it for a fee. Keep in mind that anytime a new key is matched to your car’s immobilizer, all other existing key(s) must be re-matched to the immobilizer as well, or else your existing keys would no longer be able to “communicate” with your car’s immobilizer. So make sure to have all the keys of your car with you when doing this procedure.
 
If you have a 4-digit secret key code (SKC) for your car, then you're ready for this procedure using a VAG-COM. Your SKC can be found on a black plastic tag that was given to you when taking delivery of your car. On one side of the tag, there is a sticker with a scratch panel. Your SKC is underneath that scratch panel. So scratch off the panel in order to reveal your SKC.
 
See the VAG-COM instructions for key matching using a 4-digit SKC here:
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c....html
 
If you were not given a SKC when taking delivery of your car (as in some 2002 and all ‘03+ models) or unable to retrieve the correct 4-digit SKC, then you’ll need to request the workshop code and the importer # from your dealer, along with your car’s 7-digit SKC, before proceeding with a VAG-COM. These three pieces of info can be obtained from your dealer only if you can provide them with your car’s 14-digit immobilizer ID #, your VIN, and proof of ownership. Also make note of the date on which your 7-digit SKC was generated by the dealer, as it is required for the SKC to be valid for this procedure.
 
I am sorry if this is too technichal. This is the best I can do for this issue. 1998 and 1999 first half, can do without the VAG-COM. Later models please refer to the above.
 
For those people that want to get technical, satisfaction and money saved is the reward.
All of us who prefer maintenance free vehicles, it's called TOYOTA!

Messages Page 46 of 115

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