Last post on Oct 17, 2013 at 10:50 AM
You are in the Volkswagen Beetle
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen New Beetle, Coupe, Hatchback
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#218 of 1143 Little skip when pulling out??
Feb 19, 2005 (2:19 pm)
My Beetle was bought Oct 2003 new. But almost form the beginning I get a little skip when I am starting out. Not every time maybe every 10th time or less. I have rported it. They have checked it and nothing. I have even been told that that is the regular way a Volkswagen transmission does. Other than that my little Bug is great. I love it. Especially the gas mileage I get. Does anyone else have that little skip?? Is it normal.??
#219 of 1143 Mom's New Beetle
Feb 26, 2005 (10:53 am)
She loved the car but it had problems:
The battery would drain quickly and car wouldn't start...dealer never fixed problem, it wasn't a "short"...just a bad battery and the dealer couldn't figure it out.
The car's interior had a strong smell of gear oil and we never could find out why.
The rear hatch stopped opening from the remote.
The AC compresser broke right after the bumper to bumper warranty expired.
I don't think mom will by VW again..
Turns out a neighbor of mine has the Sport version Beetle...and she reported numerous problems as well.
#220 of 1143 There was one good VW
Feb 28, 2005 (12:04 am)
Yeah when VW anounced the "return of the Beetle" was my brother and I excited.
Then sudden disappointment. Liquid cooled engine, in front. And a whopping price tag. The good beetle was still made in mexico, but dare them get to do the NAFTA thing. It was tabboo to try to import one to the US. Those old VW's where a well designed vehicle, easy to work on and inexpensive. But seems everyone is happy if they can spend alot of money for the same old pressed sheet steel, that is spot welded into a car.
The true "New beetle" at the time was the GEO Metro, but naaa everyone wants all these fancy conveniences in a car, but then they complain about all the problems. My car never breaks down.
And I get 40 plus miles a gallon.
#221 of 1143 Re: Little skip when pulling out?? [reesa]
Mar 04, 2005 (6:51 am)
Reesa: I have a 2003 bug convertible. About a year ago,while slowing down for a red light, I thought I ran over a log. Then, the "lock-up" happened again and again, finally twice this week. I have an appt to get it checked, other than that I also love my bug. But since this is happening more often (and I once had a ford with a bad transmission), I'm a little nervous about it.
#222 of 1143 headlight locking system on 2003 NB
Mar 26, 2005 (6:10 am)
Where can I find replacement headlight locking (non-)system (that inexcusably and irresponsibly cheap plastic method of locking/releasing the headlight assembly) for my 2003 New Beetle?
My dealer is 50 miles away--and, besides, shouldn't any vehicle owner be able to do simple maintenance like changing the headlight bulb?--so I, of course, broke the plastic handle and now can't change my bulb. What's the part number and where can I obtain a replacement?
#223 of 1143 Re: headlight locking system on 2003 NB [buggedinwi]
Mar 28, 2005 (8:48 pm)
Try local junkyards. BTW, the reason why VW uses ""inexcusably and irresposibly cheap" parts produced all over the thrid world in their cars is that you people keep buying their crappy cars and paying a lot of money for them. And VW laughs all the way to the bank.
#224 of 1143 Re: headlight locking system on 2003 NB [p100]
Mar 29, 2005 (6:00 am)
Gee, that probably explains why my 3 "crappy" VWs (ranging from 20K miles to 134K miles) haven't had any major problems at all.
Or is it because a lot of car buyers in their quest to be the "first kid on the block" to have the latest and greatest - buy cars that are in their first year of production, and complain when things go wrong. Of course things will go wrong in the first couple of production years - most automotive manufacturers are counting on the buying public to be their "beta testers" to work out the bugs. I don't care if you drive a VW, Honda, Toyota, lawn tractor, whatever - ALL vehicles have some bugs the first couple of production years. Don't take my word for it - just check out the forums from the other manufacturers and you will see a recurring theme.
My secret - I buy my vehicles near the end of the production cycle (after the bugs have been worked out).
#225 of 1143 quality nightmare
Mar 31, 2005 (4:44 pm)
I purchased a 99 New Beetle for my wife about 3 years ago at 18K miles. It is now about to hit 70K. Between 40K and now I have had the following parts go bad (all fixed at the dealership):
mass air flow sensor
oil pan gasket
valve cover gasket
thermostat and o-ring
fuel pump relay
Currently I am waiting for the dealer to finish fixing a leaking vacuum hose. For the cynics, most items on the list occurred and were fixed independently of the other items (i.e. this car has been in the shop about a dozen times since I have owned it). Total repair costs (including two tow bills and about $300 to replace the timing and serpentine belts) are running around $2800. There's already enough icing on the cake, but why stop there:
-a roommate cross-jumped the car when I was having my first battery problem and fried my instrument cluster. Dealer said $500 to replace. Dealer explicitly said "not likely to be a fuse". Took the car home, found the fuse, and replaced for $1. First encounter with dealer...
-inside panels scratch easily and layers just peel off. Steering wheel paint or whatever it is slowly rubs off under normal use.
-dealer keeps car overnight routinely (though not today, thank God). Here's the extreme: car towed in Monday night, alternator replaced, car picked up Friday at noon.
-my reliable car is a 90 Corolla with 150K miles.
Let me now change topic and take the opportunity to apologize in advance to the person who buys this bug, and from what I understand from consumer reports, any New Beetle.
#226 of 1143 Re: quality nightmare [nate9]
Apr 01, 2005 (5:32 am)
Any thoughts on getting rid of the car?
#227 of 1143 2004 VW Beetle jerky when cold
Apr 01, 2005 (8:39 am)
The service rep told me that my new automatic Beetle needs to be "warmed up" before putting it in drive. I thought that went out with the horse and buggy. My symptom is an occasional jerky start if it is put in drive directly after a cold start (Cold? I live in San Diego so we are talking about 60 degrees being cold!)
The Rep said something about a "Cold Safety Neutral Switch" that prevents the car from moving until it is warm. He seemed to be aware of the hesitation problem but I wonder if he is just blowing warm air up my leg. Any ideas out there?