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Hatchbacks Volkswagen Beetle Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair
1064 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 5:45 PM
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Replying to: fphilli1 (Oct 22, 2009 8:23 am) 1) never EVER use one of those quikie-change places. 2) The aluminum oil-pan is very expensive to replace. commentary: Most of the people that do the work in those quikie-change places were not able to get a job as a real mechanic. Any money you think you are saving is a net long-term loss. They often use the wrong oil, and can really mess-up your car. Most cars use a steel oil-pan. Steel is much tougher than aluminium and can stand to be over-torqued. It also accepts oversized threads better. The aluminium oil-pan is more expensive to manufacture than steel. It is lighter and helps cool the oil. However, it is very thin and easilly damaged. (either by over-torqing or getting busted from road-debris)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Oct 22, 2009 5:17 pm) Not unless you like the increased chance of things being done wrong and want to try and be sold a bunch of stuff that you don't really need. 
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Replying to: bpeebles (Oct 22, 2009 5:17 pm)  Thanks for the answer. I am retired and do not do any of my own work due to health reasons. This is my wifes car. What I was looking for was a repair standard for this issue. I talked to VW dealer and they said it was to replace the pan. I also checked with Some Ford engineers I know and they said the same thing. I am looking for documentation so I can prove my case to the place.
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Hi, I have a 2006 VW beetle. When I go over bumps (train tracks, sewer grates etc) there is the normal jostling and banning sound. But then about 10-20 seconds after the bumps there is another banging sound. I took the car to the dealer and they tightened my license plate holder, didn't help. Took the car back, had them drive around with me and they heard the sound, so they replaced the driver's seat frame, even though the sound is coming from the rear end. Does anybody know what this sound may be or have any suggestions as to how to fix it? |
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 08, 2009 6:14 pm)  We have a 1999 beetle 2.0 automatic. We have had the transmission replaced at about 56k due to the internal cooler failed and put water in the transmission. The car now has 70k and the check engine light had been on for a couple of months but the car ran fine. last week we took it in for some other work and they checked the codes and replaced the ignition wires and the light went out for about 20 miles and then came back on. This mornig I started it , did not let it warm up, and after 1/2 mile the check engine light was flashing and it went into limp home mode. After I drove it another mile the light stopped flashing, still on, and it drove fine... This is the second time it has done this. My mechanic said he only gets around 4 to 5 lines of data when he plugs in his device. Please advise.
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Replying to: fphilli1 (Nov 01, 2009 7:23 am) The offhand note that it "drives fine" means nothing... lets hope you have not fried the catalytic converter or something else expensive. Use a Vag-Com to troublesohoot.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Nov 01, 2009 4:46 pm) I did not drive the car but a few feet when it went into the limp home mode. After it warmed up it drove with no notable degridation or performance issues. I have read all the horror stories linked to the check enfine light on. I was thinking that the map window with colder air runs the car too lean and as it warms up it gets back into a workable tabel to run. Does that make sense?
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Replying to: fphilli1 (Nov 02, 2009 11:38 am) Most commont reason for P0171 is a cracked/broken or otherwise defective hose allowing air to 'leak' into the intake manifold AFTER the MAF sesor. (Between MAF and engine) Another possibility is the MAF itself not measuring the airflow accurately. If you have every one of those "oiled guaze" air-filters... (like K&N) then your MAF is likely destroyed. 3rd possibility is the foreward O2 sensor measurng the lean condition improperly. I would approach this problem in the order I have suggesed above. 1)Look for air-leak (replace all questionable rubber hoses 2) Pull electrical connector off MAF and drive like that (forces "limp" mode safely) 3)If that helps, consider replacing MAF 4)Consider replacing foreward O2 sensor
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Replying to: bpeebles (Nov 02, 2009 6:12 pm)  Thank you so much for the information. I forgot to tell you I put some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank when it was at 1/4 tank and have not added any fuel since then. Would that make any difference? I let the car sit for two days and started it this morning with no issues after I let the blue cooling light go off. I did not wait for the cooling light to go off the other day when I had the limp home mode issue. I know it says to let the engine warm up until the blue coolant light goes off, how important is that???? Thanks again for your help....
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Replying to: fphilli1 (Nov 03, 2009 5:31 am) VW says to DRIVE GENTLY (accellerate slowly) until the blue coolant light turns off... this is the same as all other vehicles ever made. One should always take it easy on a cold engine. Driving gently is the very quickest way to warm up engine without excessive wear-n-tear. You do understand that the only reason that the NB (New Beetle) has the blue light is because it does not have a formal temparature-guage on the dash to tell you when engine is cold. (VW tried to keep true to the Original Beetle which did not even have antifreeze!!) On the other hand.... letting a cold engine IDLE until it is warmed up is not good for it. An engine takes much longer to warm up when idling. This allows condensation and other nasties to form in the crankcase. |
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