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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Accessories and Modifications
1400 messages, Last post on Oct 12, 2009 at 8:45 AM
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Replying to: dowen (Jul 13, 2004 7:21 am) |
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Replying to: landdriver (Jul 10, 2004 9:02 am) I may break down and change my head unit to an ALPINE CDA-9825 with JL Audio TR 6.5 speakers with 2 smaller 4 channel amps (mostly for space reason) and 1 10" sub in the back. JL Audio makes a very slim box with a screen that fits very nicely along the back of the back seat (the angle is great) and can be easly unplugged and removed if I need the cargo space. I don't haul much on a daily basis. But if I would need to I want to be able to. Looking at maybe doing this next week. This shop seams ver reputable and understands who's paying the bill. They weere able to play from each deck to the speakers I was looking at and show me the difference of adding the sub. Thanks for all your input it has haelped a lot. dowen |
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Hey Landriver, I'm planning to use this to hook up my amp to the stereo HU. Will this work and could you suggest how I would wire it? Could you help me out and tell me which wire(color) goes to which on this converter? I'm unsure if this would work or not. http://www.ic.sunysb.edu/Stu/wichu/oem2instr.pdf
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Replying to: wwlccp (Jul 23, 2004 7:21 pm) Checked-out the instructions; a couple of questions to clarify your setup: 1. Does your aftermarket amp have only line-level inputs or also speaker-level inputs? 2. Have you decided on a location for the aftermarket amp yet (under the front passenger seat)?
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Replying to: landdriver (Jul 25, 2004 12:33 pm)
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Replying to: wwlccp (Jul 26, 2004 2:04 pm) Unfortunately (regardless of whether you opt for a line-level or speaker-level input connection setup (generally a line-level input setup is preferred if the choice exists)), in tracing the harness path through the vehicle, I don't see getting around having to gain access to the factory amp. There are ways of avoiding this (routing a new set of speaker wires from the new amp to the speakers, thus bypassing the factory speaker wiring), but those ways are probably more hassle than accessing the factory amp . However, a far easier way of accessing the factory amp exists than having to dismantle most of the interior panels in the cargo area in order to lift up the carpet as I stated in an earlier post. If you don't mind cutting into the carpet, then all you have to do is remove the right rear seat (after unsnapping the cargo-area carpet), make an H shaped slit in the vertical section of the carpet behind the seat maybe 1 foot (can't remember for sure now precisely where the factory amp is located) away from the right wall to access the amp. Once you replace the seat no one will ever see the incision. After disconnecting the two connectors from the factory amp and shorting a couple of pins together, all of your connections to the new amp can be made by tapping into the harness running along the right side of the vehicle under the scuff plates, including power connections if you want, as the power lines going to the factory amp are present in this harness, although the wire gauge is thinner than that generally recommended by the aftermarket amp manufacturers. You can get away with this if you don't plan to crank your sound system really high. Otherwise you'll want to run new power and ground wires of the thicker gauge recommended by the manufacturer. One option is to route them under the scuff plates paralleling the existing harness and then either routing through an existing hole in the firewall or drilling a new hole. The disadvantage with this is it requires the removal of some interior trim panels and gaining access behind the dash. The other option is to drill a hole in the floor and route the wires under the vehicle. Perhaps others in this forum who've installed aftermarket amps can offer additional suggestions. I'll post the exact wire colors and the exact pins that need to be shorted on the connector at the factory amp in a subsequent post when you get closer to doing the install; post 632 is a useful reference on this subject. |
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Replying to: apop (Apr 21, 2004 8:27 am) I know this is an old thread, but i just got my 2004 HL and you seem to be the only person who has wired one successfully! A hitch dealer told me they could just splice on an aftermarket harness. On a different forum, however, i was advised that a converter is necessary as well, because trailers use the same lamps for brake and turn signals. It sounds like you only bought the Toyota harness. What about the converter? Have you gotten the wiring to work without one? thanks.
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Hi All, Thought I would give you and update. I have just picked up my 04 HL from the stereo shop (yesterday) where they completed the major overhaul of my sound system. Here's is what we did. Last Saturday 7-24 they installed 1 pair JL Audio TR650-cxi speakers in the front doors. One Alpine amp MRP-240 50Wx4 (360 max. Watt)and one Alpine amp MRP-M350, 350WX1 (700 max. watt) dedicated to run one JL Audio 10" Sub Woofer in the back. This made an "O MY GOD" MAJOR difference in itself. They were supposed to change out the head unit, but they had received the kit for an H/L Limited. Which I am not. So I went back yesterday 7-31-04 and they installed the new Alpine head unit a CDA-9825. It does look nice as well. I was reluctant to change out my head unit. I like the look of factory. I wondered if it would really make a noticeable difference. I MUST admit that YES it does!!!! Voice quality is improved. And let me say anyone that has not added a Sub-Woofer is missing out. I also did not think I needed one. But let me say I LOVE IT !!! It is only a 10" and it is in a thin JL Audio box. It fits so nicely against my 2nd row seat. They left me enough wire that I can use it behind my 3rd row if need be. Or is easily removable if need be. The box takes up so little space, it great. It truly adds such warmth to the sound. There will be one more up grade to the front speaker and then I will move the TR's to the back doors. I am sure this is not as involved as some would have but I am truly enjoying the GREAT sound. All in all I have spent $1254.00 with install. Also maybe not the cheapest but they did a great job !!! NO SCRATCHES !! Dena Owen |
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Replying to: eden (Jul 28, 2004 1:12 pm) |
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Replying to: dowen (Aug 01, 2004 3:27 pm)
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