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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

1151 messages,  Last post on Aug 30, 2011 at 12:23 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Mazda Protege5, Sedan, Wagon

Messages Page 96 of 116

#950 of 1151 Re: Mazda Protégé 2001 Timing Belt Question [leila] by wisecar

Sep 12, 2005 (8:33 pm)

Replying to: leila (Jul 27, 2005 8:21 am)
Contrary to the response posted after yours which suggests driving the car until the timing belt breaks, it has been my understanding for many years (I am on my second Protege) that if the timing belt on a Japanese car breaks it causes serious damage to the engine (min. $2000 Cdn). -- better to fork out the $300+ and get it replaced NOW.
 
My manual recommends around 90,000 k but because the timing belt is a pain to get at the last time I had it replaced was at 168,300 kms when I had other work done on the car. (I had previously had the belt replaced done at around 87,000k. Hence the references posted elsewhere on this forum about replacing the timing belt when you replace the water pump -- which I had done on my first Protege before I sold it. i.e. The cost of replacing the belt is mostly in the labour -- not the part.
 
At 168,3000 kms, the shop inspected it, and in view of the mileage and the other work being done, the shop said "It's time". Just for the record, the shop is owned and operated by my friend's brother who I trust implicitly. He was the one who explained to me why they replaced the timing belt on the old car at the same as they did the water pump.

#951 of 1151 Re: Mazda Protégé 2001 Timing Belt Question [wisecar] by alternator

Sep 12, 2005 (9:54 pm)

Replying to: wisecar (Sep 12, 2005 8:33 pm)
Some Japanese cars (many Hondas in fact) have so-called "interference" engines where loss of the timing belt may cause considerable damage. Protege engines are of the "non-interference" type where loss of the timing belt will only cause the engine to come to a stop, with no damage.

#952 of 1151 Ditto what alternator said. by mdaffron

Sep 13, 2005 (6:26 am)

Protege engines are "non-interference" engines. I don't recommend waiting until the belt breaks and letting your car leave you stranded somewhere, but it is peace of mind if you can't come up with the $400 to $600 it normally costs to do this work at the exact mileage you need to do it. In other words, you can wait a little while without worrying about totaling your car if it does break on you.
 
On the Protege, your engine will die and that's all that will happen. On many Hondas and other makes of cars, the piston heads will contact the valves when the timing belt breaks, ruining the pistons and the valves. In most cases that totals your car.
 
Just one other good (and little-known) reason to own a Protege instead of a Civic!
 
Meade

#953 of 1151 Timing belt pricing... by oskwi

Sep 13, 2005 (6:17 pm)

My local dealership is going to charge me ONLY $278 for the timing belt replacement! Needless to say, I was thrilled considering my previous Galant cost me in excess of $600 to get its timing belt replaced...YIKES!
 
If anyone here is from the Western New York area, Towne Mazda in Orchard Park, New York has been outstanding...rental cars without me asking, discounted parts and occasionally, free parts (I pay for labor) even though my car is out of warranty...being a faithful customer has its rewards!

#954 of 1151 Re: 2001 Pro Shop Manual [alternator] by mazda_fan

Sep 17, 2005 (6:48 pm)

Replying to: alternator (Aug 01, 2005 6:44 pm)
Hi,
      I looked up http://protege5.ugly.net/ . There was lot of useful info.
      However, I did not find instructions on changing brakes.
      I am looking for instructions on changing the brake pads. Today I opened my protege wheels/ brakes and could not install the pads. There was a wire like thin clip which I do not where to put back.
     Can anyone give me some instructions on changing the brake pads? Pictures will be ideal.
Please help!
Thanks.
SOS!

#955 of 1151 Re: 2001 Pro Shop Manual [mazda_fan] by autonomous

Sep 18, 2005 (10:28 am)

Replying to: mazda_fan (Sep 17, 2005 6:48 pm)
I looked up http://protege5.ugly.net/ . There was lot of useful info.
      However, I did not find instructions on changing brakes.
Did you check chapter 04-11 Conventional Brake system in the manual?

#957 of 1151 Just wondering... by sean17

Sep 18, 2005 (5:30 pm)

Replying to: nikecar (Feb 20, 2001 12:54 pm)
I bought a 97 mazda protege about a month ago. Description: Protege/dx/s/se 4 door. It had 135k when I bought it. And I was just wondering if that model is known for any problems. The car was sold with safety but the garage changed the break pads and claimed the breaks worked and I still had zero pressure. I smashed the breaks on at 20km and very slowly come to a coasting stop. I'm unsure of what else it could be. When I brought the car home I bled all four breaks and I have about 50% pressure now. But I can't lock the breaks.
 
PS,
If anyone knows a site I could look at to find out what the ministry would check if I were to report the faulty safety. The car has a body kit and everything and my dad is unsure if it would be more good to bring it to the ministry.

#958 of 1151 Braking problem [sean17] by autonomous

Sep 19, 2005 (6:21 am)

Replying to: sean17 (Sep 18, 2005 5:30 pm)
Your message is difficult to follow but if I understand correctly last month you bought a 8 or 9 year old Protege with 135K km and a safety certificate. You discovered a braking problem and you proceeded to bleed the brakes yourself. Why did you not return the car to the garage from which you purchased it to have them correct the problem? The Ministry of Transport is usually the department involved provincially; if you wanted to lodge a complaint regarding the car purchase you might have to go through a consumer affairs department and/or the better business bureau. Considering the aggravation and legal cost involved, this may not be worth it. Also, it sounds like you may need to have the problem fixed by a professional immediately. In the meantime, for your own safety avoid driving the car until this problem is fixed or you may get involved in a bigger problem. Sounds like a maintenance not a design problem. Good luck.

#959 of 1151 Severe engine knock, rough idle. by leadfoot_ed

Sep 22, 2005 (2:00 pm)

I'm wondering if anyone can help me out here. The other day, when getting out of work, I went out to my car and started it up, and it made this horrible metallic rattling noise. It literally sounded like a marble in the crankcase or something. I've heard the "clackety-clack" when you first start it up before the lifters pump up, and it definitely wasn't that. Also definitely wasn't detonation, because it did it even when the engine wasn't under load. When it was making the noise, the idle would get rough at the same time, almost like the crankshaft was hitting something in the crankcase, or the valves were intermittently colliding with the pistons or something. I only kept the engine running long enough to have power steering to get it out of the parking garage, and once I got it on level ground, I pushed it into the nearest parking space and had it towed to the nearest dealer. It's still there right now, and I haven't heard back. My fear is that the oil pump exploded, and there are pieces of it floating around in the oil pan that the crankshaft is hitting. Either that, or some valves are sticking open and hitting the pistons. I can't remember if this is a "clearance" engine or not. As soon as I hear the diagnosis from the dealer, I'll post and let everyone know.

Messages Page 96 of 116

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