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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions
1132 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 8:20 AM
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Replying to: autonomous (May 01, 2007 1:53 pm) 
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| The engine on my 99 1.6 runs very smooth, however in drive I notice a vibration at the gear shift lever. There is no clunking when going from Park to drive nor do I notice much engine movement when reving in park. Would this be an indication of weak motor mounts? | |
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I bought my daughter her first car, a 97 and she just adores it. Right now the engine light is on ( code for something in the EGR system) I pulled the EGR and it is not stuck open or closed and will hold liqued (therefore not leaking). The car is very hard to start in the morning, but once it starts it seems to run well and is ok for the rest of the day. Any Ideas on what to check next, thanks.
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Replying to: pietdriver (Jun 11, 2007 7:43 pm)  your local Auto Zone...
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My 2003 P5 88,000 miles, produces a low groaning type noise that increases in pitch w/ speed. At over 30 mph, makes noise w/ clutch in or out, so it seems not to be tranny related. Noise stops if I turn the steering wheel to the right while car is in motion. Either something is rubbing against a tire, or front gear problem, or bearing problem, or,... Before I take it in and am at the mercy of their cash register, thought I'd get some advise from you all. Any ideas?
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Replying to: oldman15 (Jul 15, 2007 9:47 pm) Also wheel bearing noise is possible. |
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Hi All, I got a 2001 Protege LX 2.0. Recently I hear some cranking noise from front left bottom when I do the U-turn (left U-turn). I went to mechanic and he said there is a problem with left axle. But after I changed the left front axle ($180 cost), there noise is still there. Does anyone got any idea about this problem? Thanks~~
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Replying to: bluememo (Nov 18, 2007 8:20 pm) google "protege suspension noise" and you'll find tons of info rear sway-bars clunk also mine currently does both 
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Coming up on 101,000 miles on my 03 P5 5-speed. Prices for timing belt & water pump are averaging $550. Some dealers suggest replacing the tension pulleys, others just slip old belt off and and slip new one on. Any suggestions. My guess is I'm safer going w/ a dealer vs. private shop, in case the new belt breaks or other problems arise. Any suggestions? Also, considered replacing air filter w/ stock K&H. They appear to allow better air flow because they don't filter small particles in intake air as effectively as a standard filter. Anyone have any experience or opinions w/ K&H filters. Thanks
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Replying to: oldman15 (Jan 29, 2008 8:30 am) The timing belt is cheap. The real cost is getting to it. The mechanic has to remove parts to access the belt. So, once the garage has access, they frequently suggest other work such as replacing other belts in the area and the water pump. Personally, I think that's a good idea. Otherwise, one runs the risk of having a belt or related component break a few months later and having to go through the whole process and cost all over again. |
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