Last post on Aug 30, 2011 at 11:23 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Mazda Protege5, Sedan, Wagon
#1039 of 1151 Re: extended warranty [dudette3]
Jun 10, 2006 (2:16 am)
Hi, I extended the warranty on my 2002 Protege with a company called MEPCO. With my plan, I pay a monthly fee for 2 years but the warranty is for 5 years. The contract covers what you would expect and also includes roadside service. The $60 a month I pay is well worth the piece of mind and I don't have to pay for a separate service like AAA. My Mazda has never given me any problems so the only thing I can say I used the warranty for is the roadside service-I left my lights on. They were at my house within 30 minutes to jump my battery. I've been very pleased. I hope you find what you are looking for.
#1040 of 1151 Re: Mazda Protégé 2001 Timing Belt Question [leila]
Jun 10, 2006 (2:41 am)
I am a girl as well who has had to deal with caring for 2 new cars. I have learned that you DO NOT have to bring your car to the dealer. In my experience they charge tons of money (2-3 x what another place would charge) and don't provide the information you need to maintain your car and ask the questions you need to ask. My best advice to you is to find a mechanic you trust to give you good info and the best price. I found that at a Mr. Tire. They saved me 50% off the dealer's cost and more importantly explained why. What my dealer wasn't willing to tell me was that my warranty would be good as long as I kept records of scheduled routine maintainance. If you have the manual for your car, follow the advice in it. My Protege manual gives recommendations for different climates (like hot and high elevations) Just FYI-the timing belt tends to make a choppy high pitched squealing noise when it needs help-at least here up north. Point being, a reliable mechanic will tell you everything you need fixed and checked without ripping you off. If you have any questions, ask friends or a local shop that isn't looking for your $$.
PS shops like Pep Boys will often perform tests for free and be able to tell you where you need to go for certain things. Don't get taken for a ride-ask around
#1041 of 1151 Re: Check Engine Light AGAIN!! [garcisco]
Jun 10, 2006 (2:47 am)
Just a thought-take your car to someone ELSE! I bet the dealer is charging a good amount of $ for each visit. If you have the same issue and have asked the dealer-get a "second opinion" from someone else you trust. I have a Protege and have never had an issue-something is obviously wrong-ask someone else.
#1042 of 1151 Cooling Fan operation for 2000 Protege
Jul 09, 2006 (12:17 pm)
I bought a 2000 ES for my daughter. It is in excellent condition with only 49000 miles. But it was a salvage title because it had been in a minor front end fender-bender and subsequently repaired. I want to get everything I can think of squared away before she goes off to college next month so I’ve been doing all the maintenance stuff ie. spark plugs, tire rotation, oil & filter and a transmission fluid change etc .
Anyway I am telling you all this because the only thing I am still unsure about is the way the cooling fans are operating. It has two cooling fans. Alldata labels one as the A/C condenser fan and the other a radiator fan. When the engine is started up cool in the morning, if I turn the A/C on, both fans immediately run continuously. I can understand why the A/C condenser fan would run, but why does the other radiator fan run along with it unnecessarily even though the engine is still cold?
After a while and when the engine is warmed up, both fans then cycle on and off together apparently with the A/C compressor cycle. At this point I would think the radiator fan would run controlled by the coolant temperature and I would also think the condenser fan would be the only one cycling on and off with the compressor (and preferably just running continuously when the A/C button is selected). Doesn’t that seem logical?
But like I say, both fans continue to cycle on (and they are pretty loud too) and off together about every 20 seconds. Why have two separate [big roaring] fans if the the system is then designed to run them always together. It would be more sensible if the A/C condensor fan would run continuously anytime the A/C is selected... and the radiator fan was controlled by temperature and would run or not run independently. This is how all my other cars electric fans seem to work.
The 4 cylinder 1.8 liter engine runs very smoothly in or out of gear at about 700 RPM. But when the A/C and the two fans come roaring on, and the RPM jumps to 800 rpm, things then vibrate excessively making the hood shake along with the unpleasantly loud fan noise. Is this normal? This seems unnecessarily poor scheduling of the cooling fans.
My question is: Is this how it is suppose to be? Or is there maybe a temperature sensor or something not right? I noticed it also takes about 3 times longer to warm up than my other cars. This also seems odd especially since the Protege makes the cooling fans run on the cold radiator and engine.
Or... if this is how all Proteges are designed to operate the cooling fans, is there a way to make the system operate in a more sensible manner?
Or... since both these fans turn on and off together would it be OK to just unplug one to cut the fan noise in half and still have adequate cooling. It seems like overkill anyway to have two fans, especially considering that during the cycling they are sometimes both completely off for 20 seconds instead of providing nice consistent moderate airflow rather than this on-off-on-off all the time.
Is there anyone reading this forum that can give me some reliable answers to any or all of my questions? -who knows about proper cooling fan operation or has experience modifying it's operation to make it quieter?
Thank you for taking time to read my post and thanks for your advise.
#1043 of 1151 Re: Cooling Fan operation for 2000 Protege [brode1]
Jul 09, 2006 (12:35 pm)
a minor front end fender-bender that was repaired generated a salvage title?? Yikes!!
#1044 of 1151 The cooling fans.
Jul 14, 2006 (6:11 am)
The radiator fan cycles on and off as directed by the car's computer to keep the coolant temps down. This usually happens in slow traffic on hot days.
However, even with both fans on, your hood shouldn't be shaking. You will hear them, but I never thought it was excessively loud, just noticeable.
I suspect the fans, fan housings or mounting points may have been damaged in the accident. I'd inspect them, and if they are unbalanced or a mount is broken, etc., I'd replace them. You might check junkyards for units from a Protege that didn't suffer damage to its front end.
#1045 of 1151 Replacing struts on 99 Protege LX
Aug 01, 2006 (6:21 am)
Hi all -
It's time to replace the struts on my car. To save on costs, a buddy of mine (who know his way around cars) is going to help me do the work. Does anyone have any pointers that might help us out?
Also - if you have any suggestions for a brand to buy, let me know. I'm not interested in anything fancy - just a basic replacement for original struts that have worn after 78k.
#1047 of 1151 Transmission Fluid Change
Aug 19, 2006 (8:10 pm)
I took my wife's 2002 Protege in today for an oil change and the dealership came out and said that the transmission fluid was looking a little dark and suggested it be changed. The car currently has 48,696 miles on it.
The last time I had the transmission fluid changed was in November 2003 at about 29,400 miles.
My questions are:
1. Is the recommendation to change the tranny fluid based on miles, years or a combination of the two?
2. Would people suggest I get it done because it has been a while?
I looked in the owner's manual and the American version of the maintenance did not say anything. (There is a specific maintenance regiment for Protege's being used in Chile. And before I drop $135 on it, I would like to know if it is worth doing it or not.
#1048 of 1151 Re: Check Engine Light AGAIN!! [garcisco]
Aug 20, 2006 (10:22 am)
I had a similar problem on a Nissan Maxima. AS it turns out, the oxygen sensor sent a signal to the computer, and the computer determined that it needed to open the EGR valve. The computer did not see a change from the oxygen sensor, so it set an EGR error code, assuming the EGR did not respond. The reason the computer did not see a change is because the oxygen sensor was defective. Replacing the oxygen sensor solved the problem.
Remember the oxygen sensor(s) are the only sensors that tells the computer how things are running. The other sensors simply provide input, such as throttle position.
The only real check you have that the computer commands are being followed, are the oxygen sensors.