Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair
2831 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 12:42 PM
You are in the Ford Ranger Forum. Your Host is kcram
|
|
|---|---|
|
Have you tried any of the additives? There are quite a variety of different injector, piston, valve, and bore cleaners out there. It wouldn't hurt to try a few different ones (not at the same time). |
|
|
ebbgreatdane- On my 2001 there is no option for recirculate vs. fresh air. Your explanation makes sense even still . . . the smell tends to appear only if I shut off air flow, even when parking. I know the owners manual dictates all sorts of ways to set the air flow when parked, when driving, when driving through snow, etc., but I get this same smell whether using hot or cold settings, and I haven't really used the a/c yet. This is another item I plan to mention to my dealer, but it's not that bothersome to me . . . it fades after about ten seconds. |
|
|
|
|
Ah... on some vehicles, MAX = recirculate. Just leave the selector on vent when you turn the car off or just run the vent for the last few minutes of your trip/commute. I would be surprised if this doesn't help the problem. Hope that helps, John |
|
|
That probably will work, as I believe the times it stinks are the times it has been sitting with the vent off. Thanks, David |
|
| I have a 2001 4.0 auto 4x4 extended cab xlt. I have started to notice sometimes when I start the engine it make a noise. It happens when the fast idle dropps off. It is a loud g-rrrrrrr or groan noise for about a second. I don`t know what it is caused by. Does any one else have this noise or know what it is? Thank you. | |
|
|
There are a lot of moving parts under the hood and in the engine bay of a car. A noise could come from ANYWHERE. It could be minor, like a spot of grease on a belt causing it to slip, or it could be a cat sleeping on the manifold.  Try popping open the hood, and listening around while someone else starts the engine. This will better pinpoint the source of the noise. Even the engine (accessories aside) itself has several parts. In order of breathing, there is the airbox/filter, thottle body, intake manifolds, head(s), combustion chamber/rotating assembly(pistons, rods, crank), head(s) again, then exhaust manifold/headers. The heads are easily identified as the top of the engine, with spark plugs inside them. The block houses the rotating assembly, and is near the bottom, with the oil pan. Now that some novices have a introduction, it's time to find out where that noise is coming from. On start up, it could most likely be a brake master cylinder pressuring up, or power steering doing the same. It could also be an electric fuel pump that is working double time to supply that initial load of fuel. If the noise is RPM related, then check all accesories on the belts, or listen to the engine (block/ heads). A good trick if you can't locate the noise, is to place a long screwdriver or other solid tool on the exterior of each part, and put your ear against the end of the handle. You should feel/hear the noise best when the screwdriver is touching troubled part. BE CAREFUL NOT TO HURT YOURSELF IF THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. KEEP CLEAR OF ALL MOVING PARTS! |
|
|
|
|
Also, sasquatch has mentioned additives, so I thought I'd mention my favorites. RxP is a great cheap octane booster with cleans carbon buildup very well. Put a bottle of this stuff in your higher milage vehicle before you fill up(so it mixes best), and you'll notice it! zMax - That TV commercial you always see is some great stuff. 40 bucks at pep boys, and you got a bottle of fuel additive, transmission additive, oil additive, and an extra bottle for your motorcycle, lawn mower or more for your car later. This stuff really made my engine purr again after 135k miles. Idle RPM dropped about 150 revs, cruising RPM dropped from 3100 to about 2700, cold starts are almost 50% faster, and gas milage was back up to 22mpg city, 28 highway. It really works well,and has made my engine a smooth performer once again. zMax also is great for those performance enthusiasts. You can bake your all your metal engine parts in zmax to help it absorb and keep any wear and tear or carbon build up on anything you build. Really did notice when I built and torn down a old '67 289ci V8. There are also plenty of valve, and injector cleaners, but none have really stuck in my mind as being outstanding. I've tried duralube and slick50, and these had similar effects, just not as great or long lasting. The way I look at it, spend an extra 20-30 bucks a year to ensure your engine is clean and sound. |
|
|
Stang... that's a good way to listen for problems, although rather than a long screw driver, I'll use a longer wooden dowel. Much easier to keep yourself clear of moving parts that way! PF Flyer Host Pickups & News and Views Message Boards |
|
|
|
|
Please remember that a battery has no moving parts and that only bad things can from having one hand on the body of your car and touching a screwdriver to your ear on the hot terminal. Seriously, though while replacing a starter while my friend was listening to the radio in the cab, I personally connected the circuit between a hot lead and the engine head with my rachet. My arm hurt for a week. I know most screw drivers have wood or plastic handles but wear some insulative gloves with the above procedure. It will only help to keep your head and your car's 12v DC seperated. John |
|
|
That 12V DC "kick" is quite the eye opener isn't it?? KAPOW!!!
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Ford Ranger
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
