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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 61 of 299

#597 of 2986 possible lemon ranger by mrsmisha

Nov 13, 2002 (10:38 am)

To sum up my title, I purchased a 1999 ranger extended cab 4x4 with 3.0l flex fuel v6 engine, automatic trans. in july 2001 with 25,700 miles and balance of factory warranty. In August 2001, the drive shaft assembly was replaced. In September 2001, the computer was replaced because the dealer said that it was not advancing the timing correctly. Here's where it gets interesting. In dec. 01, took ranger in for what I thought was a bad rearend, Ford replaced the transmission. While test driving their work, discovered the trans they put in was bad and replaced it with a second transmission. Test drove and said was fine. Took back in March 02 for vibration in steering wheel when backing up and hesitation going from reverse to forward and sometimes not pulling at all. Was told was normal and that the vibration was the tires. Rotated tires and problem still there. In July of 2002, third transmission in the truck stopped pulling altogether. Can you imagine doing 75 mph on the interstate with a big rig on your ass and your trans goes out?! Anyway, ford put a fourth trans in my truck and gave me another warranty to use, 2years/48000 miles. This is my question, how many times will ford replace my trans before finally fixing the problem? I don't abuse the truck, and I don't baby it. Mixed highway/city driving. Can only seem to get about 15mpg out of it on the highway. Can anyone please help? Or should I get Ford to find my old truck for me?

#598 of 2986 mrsmisha by frey44

Nov 13, 2002 (3:44 pm)

I have never driven a Ranger 4x4, or Explorer, that DIDN'T shake (my theory is that some of it is torque converter vibration...a design problem, but that is an OPINION of mine). Your gas mileage of 15 is about normal. A 4x4 Ranger I would think would average about 15 to 17 mpg under most normal driving conditions (low gearing and airflow under the truck, plus an auto trans, eat gas.). My 4.0 00 model gets about 18 highway and about 14 in town. As far as trannies, something seems major wrong ! Neveer heard of 4 trannies in a Ranger, in a relatively new vehicle.

#599 of 2986 frey44 by mrsmisha

Nov 13, 2002 (5:42 pm)

the vibration I talked about was the entire steering wheel shaking while going in reverse at idle. The sticker that came on the truck I found in the glove box has something like 19 for highway mileage and 17 for city. As far as the transmission problems, all I found out so far is that the dealer reserves the right to use remanned transmissions and other types of parts on warranty work. I found this out on the fourth trans. Have you heard anything? I'm open for any info I can get. At the point of kicking myself in the ass for getting rid of my 1990 F250 extended cab, even though it needed some work.

#600 of 2986 Reverse Carbon Knock by rangertime

Nov 13, 2002 (6:27 pm)

Well thanks again for every ones feedback on my noisy engine. As for carbon knock, I think I have reverse carbon knock. I only hear my noise's at idle,and especially cold start up. Normal driving and a hard pull on the engine I hear normal sounds, I think. I can live with that. Its the start up that gets me. Also my oil gauge says I have great oil pressure. Go figure? Thanks again everyone.

#601 of 2986 Re:CD Player Problem by jared4071

Nov 13, 2002 (8:26 pm)

No, they are regular cd's, one of them was brand new even. Today after school it worked for about 5 minutes, and then I stopped at the gas station, and when I got back in and left, it wouldn't work again.

#602 of 2986 Yup, my Ranger vibrates too by albuterol

Nov 15, 2002 (12:08 am)

1999 Ranger, 4.0 V6, 60,000 miles, regular cab short bed, 4x4, off-road package, 4.11 axle. Had Firestone tires, now have Goodyear.
 
First, I've had the slip-yoke problem where the truck would thump while stopping or pulling away from a stop. Then I'd grease the slip-yoke (on rear drive shaft) and thump would go away.
 
Now about 3000 miles ago, I started getting a vibration at 70-75 miles per hour (overdrive on). The kind that shakes the mirrors so you can't see who's behind you. Now the shaking is not constant -- it shakes for 2 seconds then stops for 2 seconds then shakes for 2 seconds, etc.
 
I thought maybe it was the engine, so I noted the RPMs at 75 mph. Then I slowed down and took overdrive off and got the same engine RPMs but at a slower mph speed. No vibration, so the engine is ok, right?
 
Ok, I suspect the driveshaft since everyone suggests getting the aluminum one (I have the original rusted steel shaft). But my question -- is there an aluminum shaft for the regular cab? I've seen talk of it for the extended cab.

#603 of 2986 tranny shutter by 96flea

Nov 15, 2002 (4:55 pm)

my 96 4.0 ranger w/auto tranny will have a slight shutter or miss to it at around 35-45mph. from a red light to 65mph no problem at all. coming off the highway and slowing to and staying at 35-45mph it begins. i had fluid and filter changed at 35k and 61k. it now has 63k.
also, the egr valve needs replacing. what exactly is its purpose and how hard is it to change? thanks!

#604 of 2986 maf location? by 96flea

Nov 15, 2002 (5:12 pm)

oh, i would also like to know the location of a 96 4.0 maf.

#605 of 2986 96flea by bolivar

Nov 15, 2002 (8:04 pm)

The miss MIGHT BE the ICV, Idle Control Valve. It is a black and silver cylinder on the left side of the intake, about two times the length of a D cell battery. Has a wire connector to it. This controls the idle speed. It bleeds air into the intake, but can also carbon up from the gas fumes back from the intake. You can remove this, careful with the gasket so it can be reused, and clean with carb cleaner. Now part of it is an electrical solinod, so don't go cleaning on this end. You will see the air ports and little valve that are carboned up. A new one cost quite a bit, $50 or so, but can be bought aftermarket, don't have to buy Ford.
 
The MAF is in the big black tube between the air cleaner and the intake. It's also got wires to it. It has 2 screws on the top, Torx screws with a security feature - a little knob in the middle so you can't use a regular Torx driver on it. You can buy a special driver for the screw, use vise grips on the screw heads, or I used a Dremel drill to remove most of the knob. Then you can pull out the MAF sensor. It is a little plastic box with a hole and in the hole are 2 very fine and FRAGILE wires. Buy electrical cleaner to spray these wires. Do not use carb cleaner. DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH ANYTHING. Cleaner spray should clean them. Replace. If your check engine light is on, remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes to reset the computer. If a dirty MAF was setting teh check engine light, this might correct it. And give you better drivability and milage also.
 
Don't know about the EGR valve. I've got a 1994 4L and I'm not sure if I've ever seem one. Are you sure your motor has one? A lot of these are replaced when it's something else causing problems.....

#606 of 2986 transmissions by mrsmisha

Nov 16, 2002 (7:59 am)

its me again. Does anyone have any kind of input as to what could possible be causing all my transmission problems? Be nice, and no, its not because of a lead foot or 4wheelin.

Messages Page 61 of 299

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