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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2991 messages,  Last post on Jun 05, 2013 at 2:00 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 59 of 300

#579 of 2991 2002 Ranger Edge by redzx3

Nov 04, 2002 (5:55 pm)

my 2002 Ranger V6 3.0 with 6,400 miles on it is not running right . It's auto, and when you stop at a red light and keep your foot on the brake it run's rough and the tack move's from 1 to almost 0 .But when you take off from the red light it run's good .I have been useing 87 gas so i was thinking it could be the gas so now i'm useing 93 gas and it's still doing the same thing .I took it into ford and they had it for 4 day's and told me it's fine . well it's still running rough when you stop at a red light .I guess i will have to take it back to ford this week .Has this happen to any of you yet ?

#580 of 2991 Vacum line leak by pinetted

Nov 11, 2002 (9:02 am)

I have a 96 Ranger 4X4 XLT and when I switch it into FWD it keeps engaging and disengaging. I also notice a high pitched whistle for a while after the FWD is engaged. I am thinking that the vacum line has a leak but, I was under the truck yesterday and could not see anything. To be honest I was not sure what I was looking for. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

#581 of 2991 97 4.0 Engine Noise by rangertime

Nov 11, 2002 (9:28 am)

This truck has 33,500 miles on it and the engine noise(clatter) when you first start it up in the morning is terrible, almost embarrassing. Even hear alittle engine noise (I think valves) when driving, but not bad. I bought the truck with 26,000 miles on it and within the last 1,000 miles this racket has started.I have tried synthetic oil, oil additives, which seem to help a little. Different brands and weights of oil, etc. The truck runs fine but this engine is NOISY! Got any ideas on why this is happening? I try to take care of my vehicle's but this is driving my nuts.

#582 of 2991 Im new here by wmw28

Nov 11, 2002 (1:04 pm)

I just got a 1998 ranger xlt. I was having a problem with the door ajar and dome light coming on, or not turning off. I found this sight and registered and so on to maybe get some advice on the problem. but after reviewing the postings all I found was a lot of " I say this " well "I say that" or mines better,no mines better. why dont you guys get each others phone nos, and argue your points. that way some of us don't have scroll through a lot of uneeded postings looking for one that is close to our problem. Just thought I`d say Hi.............

#583 of 2991 welp by midnight_stang

Nov 11, 2002 (1:33 pm)

wmw28, Sorry you had to go through that. You were probably reading messages going back and forth between Ranger and Tacoma guys. It's kinda a big competition here unfortunately, but it should be good to hear that it's over (for) now.
 
rangertime, I believe the earlier SOHV 4.0l's had a cam tensioner issues, which could be the cause of your engine noise. It could also be the oil dipstick coming into contact with the crank. See WWW.NHTSA.GOV for info on TSB (Technical service bulletins), and also see your local dealership for advice on servicing it(it may even be under an extended warranty, as I think it was a fairly common issue, but don't quote me on that)
 
pinetted, Can you set the parking brake, or have someone stand on the brakes while you check for the source of the vacuum leak? That may or may not be the full reason for your 4WD disengaging, but it definitely is a good place to start checking.

#584 of 2991 Problems: Motor Noise and Door Ajar by bolivar

Nov 11, 2002 (10:30 pm)

1) Noisy motor. You have the dreaded 1997 to 1999 4Liter 'Marble Noise' in the motor. It's a well known problem in these years. Ford changed something in the motor and caused this noise in many motors. In all my reading of message boards, I've never seen a final definition of what this problem is. 'Piston slap' seem to be one of the most quoted ones.
 
With much complaining, people have told stories of Ford replacing these motors. And several of the replacements soon developed the same noise. Ford dealers all probably know of this problem, but there seems to not be a lot of support for a fix. And there does not seem to 'be' a fix. Ford also seems to say that the noise is 'normal' and will not effect the performance of the truck. Probably the worse thing would be resale value, if a future purchaser heard this noise before buying. People write of driving the truck for lots of miles, with this noise, and no other problems with the motor.
 
2)Dome lite/door ajar. Another well known problem with these years. The switch in the door needs to be replaced. A lot of people WD40 it, but I think Ford may have a better made switch you will get from parts, so I would recommend replacing them. Replace both doors. And, the switch is inside the doors, not in the door frame. The door panel has to be removed to get to the switch.

#585 of 2991 thanks boliver \door ajar switch by wmw28

Nov 12, 2002 (10:41 am)

I took it to the dealer I bought it from, He replaced the passenger door switch with a switch off of a ranger he had around. it works now ,but maybe I should get a new one like you suggested, for both doors. Can a yard mechanic like myself do this installation, cause if it aint broke the dealer wont do it.

#586 of 2991 Thanks for the replys. by rangertime

Nov 12, 2002 (1:16 pm)

Dreaded marble noise,piston slap,(what is piston slap)? Oh well I'll just have to live with it I guess. I paid 9,600 for this 4X4 Ranger XLT with 26,000 miles on it.Its in FANTASTIC shape. It was quiet when I first got it and know it sounds like it has 126,000 miles. But I guess as long as it keeps running well I won't worry too much about it. Thanks everyone again for the replys. Piston slap?

#587 of 2991 Marble noise. by frey44

Nov 12, 2002 (4:25 pm)

My 2000 4.0 pushrod Ranger makes that noise, and also makes a slight knocking sound when cold. It seems to go away when warm. I suspect is is indeed piston slap, whcih goes away when the piston heatss up and undergoes expansion. In any event, I have seen a number of Rangers that over 200K on those motors with very little trouble. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are not satsified, spend a few bucks and get an oil analysis done to give you peace of mind. If something major is wrong, you will have evidence of deteriorated bearing materials in the oil residue.

#588 of 2991 TSB "ENGINE KOCKING" by frey44

Nov 12, 2002 (4:29 pm)

Engine - Carbon Knock On Acceleration
Article No:
01-19-7
 
10/01/01
^ ENGINE - 4.0L OHV - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION
 
^ NOISE - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L OHV ENGINE ONLY
 
FORD:
1990-1997 AEROSTAR
1990-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER
 
ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 4.0L OHV engine may exhibit an engine noise which may be perceived by the customer as a piston/connecting rod bearing knock. This carbon knock is heard only under load during the drive cycle. Carbon knock is a customer drive duty-cycle phenomenon that cannot be repaired with an engine exchange. This may be caused by carbon build-up within the combustion chamber.
 
ACTION
Verify condition. If normal diagnostics fail to correct the condition, de-carbon the combustion chamber to help quiet the carbon knock noise. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
 
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.
 
2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
d Shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
e. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Gleaner.
f. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
g. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
h. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
i. Change oil and filter.
 
3. Review the customers' driving habits. The recommended drive cycle should include daily periods of engine operation above 3,000 RPM, such as a brisk acceleration from a stop position. This will break/burn the carbon off the piston head.
 
4. Use regular unleaded fuel, 87 Octane. Mid-grade and Premium fuels may increase the probability of carbon buildup, leading to a knock noise.
 
PARTS BLOCK
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
 
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
 
011907A Remove Carbon From 1.6 Hrs.
                Combustion Chamber
                (Includes Time To Perform
                Procedure A Total Of
                Three Times)
 
DEALER CODING
 
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
6108 42

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