I just bought a Ford Ranger 2002 XLT, 3.0 manual, and it has been shaking ONLY IN IDLE since the day I bought it; however I didn't notice it until the day after. So I brought it back. The dealership hooked it to a computer and told me there was nothing wrong with it, but when I look under the hood, the engine looks like it has a bad case of heart burn. It rumbles and shakes so much you can see the truck shake from the outside. Ford is giving me the run around. I saw the same thing happen in post #37, but that was a long time ago. Before I file a lemon law suit, is anyone else out there experiencing the same problem, and/or know a solution?
There might be a throttle adjustment screw that you can adjust. On the throttle body, or just follow the throttle linkage. See if maybe 100-200 more RPM's could fix it. Also a good time to remove the air intake snorkle. That may help it breathe easier enough to reduce the shaking.
Things like that do not produce codes, typically. Sounds like the dealership was just trying to get you in and out. The trick is to ask if there is any remedy for the issue with a knowledgable 3.0l mechanic. As time progresses, and the engine gets broken in it may go away, or get worse.
Finally got my '92 Ranger 4.0L on the road a few weeks ago but I've been chasing a problem I can't find.
While cruising down the road under constant speed (or any other driving condition), the temp gauge sits at about 20% of full scale. Every once in awhile, it will climb to about 60% in 1 or 2 seconds. It sometimes stays there for almost a minute but often starts dropping again quickly, taking about 10 o 20 seconds to drop back to around 20%.
I have had 3 different thermostats in it (1 non-Ford part), changed the fan clutch and the temp sensor but it always behaves the same.
These excursions do not correlate with acceleration, speed, rough road, or any other condition I can think of.
I ran this morning with the heater on (been too hot to try that until now) and could not swear to any change in temp from the heater when the gauge went wacky.
I suspect the electrics of the temp gauge circuit but have not purchased the service manual yet to start tracking it down.
I was hoping to take my first long trip in the Ford this weekend but my confidence level in it is still lower than my '92 Jeep with more than twice the mileage.
Has anyone else had a similar problem and what did you find???
#509 of 2986 emissions problem (egr valve)
Aug 27, 2002 (1:52 pm)
I'm having a problem with the emissions system on my 99 Ranger (3.0 V6/Auto). A while back the check engine light came on and I noticed the truck running rough. The symptoms were a surging or hesitating sensation when travelling at a constant speed - most noticable at between 25 and 40 mph. There was also hesitation when accellerating from a stop.
While the truck was in for a regular oil change I had the shop (a Goodyear ASC, not a Ford Dealer) diagnose the problem. They diagnosed a faulty EGR valve and selonoid (sp?) which I had them replace. To make a long story short, the truck has been back to the same shop 4 times and the problem is not fixed yet. Each time, the truck runs better for a day or two and then the light comes back on and the symptoms return.
First, has anyone had this problem and if so how was it resolved? Second, do you think I will have better luck at a Ford dealer? I've already spent $200 on this problem with the Goodyear shop, and they have never charged me for subsequent visits. However, I am beginning to doubt that they are able to properly diagnose and repair this problem.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
p.s calamityjane -- perhaps it is time to replace that gauge. I had a similar problem with a boat, and after trying lots of things out of caution it turned out to be the instrament. If it still reads hot with a new thermostat and a new gauge, you know you have more serious trouble.
I have a '99 Mazda B3000 (3.0L V6) with 34,000 miles on it....my ck engine light has also come on like yours.....an independant shop diagnosed it and told me low flow from the EGR valve....they didn't replace it because the guy said one of their own mechanics had done that on his truck and ck engine light came back on as well.....I THINK I may have an answer for the problem though....My truck also has the "skipping/hesitation...sputtering at higher speeds.....
My best friend had a '00 Ranger that had our same problem and a dealership fixed it for him.....they replaced a different component on the EGR system....a "DPCE....????.....it sits right on the front of the manifold intake....looks to be very easy to replace....2 screws and 2 hoses to remove and replace....BUT I bet the part can only be gotten through a dealership...I'm going to go let the dealership diagnose mine and replace it.........I had taken the EGR valve off and "cleaned" it....left battery cables off for a while to reset the light....and 2 days later light has come back on.....Maybe we can both get this thing fixed.....good luck to you
My story about the temp gauge, on a 94 4L automatic.
Earlier this summer, I noticed when the AC was off but in MAX or RECIR I got quite a lot of rather warm air out of the vents. I looked at the TEMP control cable and it seemed to be working fine and the 'door' seemed to be closing completely. Thinking that maybe the seals around the door have deteriated in 8 years I thought of something else to try to help the AC.
I bought a manual cutoff value and put it in one of the heater hoses. My old 1966 Ford had one of these. And since my 94 Ranger did not have a vacumn operated cutoff, like some new vehicles, I decided to do the manual cutoff, opening and closing it in spring and fall.
Well, ever since I put the manual valve in one of the heater hoses, and it is closed of course, my temp gauge has been doing somewhat like yours is doing.
It will come up, then surge up to about 3/4 gauge, then drop to almost the bottom. It will do this about 3 or 4 times. And then, especially if I am on the highway and the outside temp is hot, it will stablize at the 'usual' position which is about the N or O on 'NORMAL' Except one cool morning I was driving it and it continued to cycle up and down.
I think it has something to do with the heater core being in the 'bypass' flow of water, which allows the heater to heat up faster in winter. When I cut this bypass off, for some reason, and because of where the sensor is located, it see a different flow of water for some reason. I think when the thermostat opens a flow of overheated water comes out of the engine and hits the sensor. Then, the cool water from the radiator hits it. If the 'bypass' flow through the heater was working, I think these temps are evened out some way, and the gauge is more stable.
Or, maybe we have an air pocket in the engine and this is what causes it? Cutting into the hose I lost very little antifreeze, but could have still gotten air into the hose.
Are your heater hoses hooked up properly? You said something about 'getting the truck back on the road'. Is it possible you have a completely blocked heater, which gives you the same 'system' as I do with a cutoff valve in a hose closed off?
I'm just living with it, especially since after a few cycles it stablizes. Since I intend to open the valve in a short when the outside weather cools off, I will see it it gets back to 'normal' then.