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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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#51 of 2831 Finding the right home... by pf_flyer HOST Apr 26, 2001 (2:28 pm)
Hopefully one of you can help this user out!   1 of 2 Anyone else have a Ranger with Spark Knock? by supercab2 Apr 26, 2001 (02:08 pm)    I have been living with this for 3 years. Ford Motor Company cannot come up with a fix for my 1998 XLT 3.0 liter V6. The truck does have automatic transmission. I have decided that it's time to switch back to Toyota. Anyone ever have spark Knock with a Toyota? I'm growing more and more frustrated each year that I own this truck. I like everything else on the truck except this stupid knock problem. Ford does not treat all customers the same!!!!!
#52 of 2831 Difficulty shifting by bobhoh Apr 27, 2001 (6:47 am)
Hello. I recently purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L with the flexible fuel package. I have been having several "problems" since purchasing this used vehicle. First, I have some difficulty shifting gears, primarily 1-3. I have driven manual transmission Ford vehicles for over 10 years and I have never had a car that has this much difficulty finding its way into low gears. Any comments? I have been told that this is normal. Also, the truck has an extremely rough idle. I admit that I have never owned a pick-up/truck, but my old 1988 Ford Bronco II never idled this rough. When I sit at lights the truck constantly shutters or wiggles, sometimes worse than others. Once again, the dealer says it's fine. Is it?
#54 of 2831 Water Leaks, hard to close, hard to open on rear doors? by silvermustang Apr 27, 2001 (6:58 am)
Is anybody having problems with rear doors on their 2000 or 2001 Ranger? if you are, what type of problems? I am having problems closing my rear doors. I have to slam the rear door really hard to close. If I don't, rear door does not latch at the top.
#55 of 2831 Ranger problems by midnight_stang Apr 30, 2001 (7:14 am)
silvermustang-> Try adding some lube or anti-sieze to the moving parts on the latch and sticker bar. Don't forget hinges too, that might help your door problem.   bobhoh->Well my 2.3l was idling a little rough, so I cleaned out the throttle body, cleaned the airbox and replaced the MAP sensor. And all this at about 110k miles. It only took about 30 minutes and 15-20 bucks. As far as the shifting, that's harder to guess a solution, but I'd start with the shifter, then the linkage, then the clutch, then the tranny. Order of price and easy access. Good luck, maybe some other owners know of a possible cause and effect on that one.
#56 of 2831 Doors Jams...literally by ebbgreatdane Apr 30, 2001 (2:50 pm)
I am not sure if Ford has addressed this issue in a TSB, however, you may want to check out the Chevy Silverado Problems Post.   Some time ago individuals were having major problems with their xtra cab doors in cold weather (32 degrees F and below). Chevy resolved this problem with a kit from the Mfr. that replaced the weather stripping and the nylon door linkages where the two doors met.   Are you in a colder climate? I would definately address this with the dealer.   John
#57 of 2831 A/C smell by ebbgreatdane Apr 30, 2001 (3:07 pm)
A few posts back someone had posted a message about a bad A/C smell.   This is actually caused by leaving your vehicle on re-circulte after you shut off the truck after having run the A/C. When you do this and the cold, dry air stops flowing through the vent system, the plastic vents are cold enough to condense water and do. Eventually the water, after sitting in a truck on a warm day, will begin to stale.   To remedy this, the last few minutes of your trip/commute, switch your A/C system from re-circulate to fresh. When you shut the truck off, leave the system on the fresh air setting. This will allow fresh air to circulate through you vehicle and exit through the exhause vents usually located in the rear quarter panels.   Unless you are living in a high dust area, this should allow air flow through your car on a hot without detriment.   John
#58 of 2831 Ignition switch replacement by midnight_stang Apr 30, 2001 (3:47 pm)
There's another forum out there on an ignition switch replacement, but since I can't seem to posts there, here's the solution to anybody with the problem, care of Haynes Repair manual.   -Disconnect negative battery cable -Remove the steering column cover -locate the single key warning buzzer wire, and disconnect it -Turn the ignition switch to the run position -Place a 1/8 inch punch in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder. (Physically near the tip of the key inside the cylinder) Depress the punch while pulling out on the lock cylinder to remove it from the column housing. -Install the lock cylinder by turning it to the run position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing. Make sure the cylinder is completely seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the off position. This will permit the retaining pin to extend into the hole. -turn the lock to ensure operation is correct in all positions -The remainder of installation is the the reverse of removal.   I hate the factory radio's that require those two U shaped tools to remove. It took me half a day to shape some coat hangers into the correct position. But my alpine and 600 watt(tot/peak) amps are definately worth it! Later I found out most stereo and factories will lend you the Ford Tool... oh well...
#59 of 2831 PF_FLYER...and the Spark Knock by ebbgreatdane Apr 30, 2001 (3:51 pm)
Although I'm not a mechanic, it's seems as though if the individual want's to erradicate their spark knock, I would take it to a skilled shop that has a what I think is called an orthoscope (basically a video cam the size of a pencil eraser on a flexible, but controllable shaft).   By removing each injector, the shop can check visually for carbon build-up in each cylinder and piston head using a video monitor. This is probably best performed by the dealer and if it's been happening for over the last year, I would imagine that this should retroactively be considered under warranty.   I assume the engine has already had the normal computer diagnostic (which it should first if not done already). Again best done at the local dealer.   If the dealer refuses to work it under warranty, I would contact the Better Business Bureau via their web form. Resoultion with the BBB usually can be acheived within 3-4 weeks.   For working with the BBB, you can check out Obyone in the Chevy Silverado Problems. That guy has heard it all.   John
#60 of 2831 silvermustang - problems by david6 May 01, 2001 (7:01 am)
I have a 2001 extended cab, and I have found that to keep the "door ajar" light off, I generally need to keep my hand on the rear doors when I close them, so that they shut firmly. I don't have to do this hard, and it seems that this prevents the door from bouncing back a little, keeping the "door ajar" light from coming on around corners.   You mentioned water leaks in your subject - I have found water dripping off of my frame under the engine, and traced it to what looks like the a/c compressor - it seems to be condensation when I have the air set to "cool" on a warm day - even with the a/c off. I plan to mention next time I have service done, as I'm worried about possible future rust on the frame after many years of this. Replies to this message: hondo6 (Jul 30, 2006 8:20 am)

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