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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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Messages Page 51 of 299

#500 of 2986 A few questions to the experts by tukeanu

Aug 15, 2002 (9:35 am)

Hi, I'm new here. I used this site (the Ranger v.s. Tacoma posts) to research a new vehicle purchase about two years ago. I bought a 2001 XLT ext. cab 4x4 Off Road fully loaded with the 4.0L sohc and 5 spd man trans. The deciding factors were rear doors and price, quality took a rear seat (no pun intended). After living through two nightmares (Ford and the dealership) I finally got my truck. After a year and a half of ownership there are still a few things not right with it and instead of reading all fourhundred and some posts here I thought I would just ask you guys about them and hope for some answers. The problems are as folows;
-Loud clunk when A/C compressor engages (not always though)
-Seems to be lots of play (clunk sound) in the driveline when transitioning between power on and power off. Even smoothly. Keep in mind this is a standard transm. If I am VERY careful with my shifting I can avoid it.
-I get a buzzing or rattling sound when the engine is cold and the rpms go above 2700. Disappears when engine warms up. Dealer says it must be a loose heat shield but couldn't find it. It has been EXACTLY the same for 1.5 yrs as well. Could be piston rap or valve clatter? You have to listen closely to hear it but it's always there.
-Driver's side floor is wet under rubber mat. Probably windshield seal.
-Tailgate requires extra push on upper left to get that side to latch upon closing. I can live with that (Ford quality control asleep at the wheel).
The engine buzz and driveline clunking are my two biggest concerns. I know the driveline thing has been discussed here already. What do I need to know about these problems prior to going back to the dealership? Thanks in advance guys.

#501 of 2986 TUKEANU by frey44

Aug 15, 2002 (8:33 pm)

The driveline problem can most likely be resolved by getting the newly designed all aluminum driveshaft. I had the esame problem on my 2000 Ranger, and the new shaft did the trick: here is some info I have posted beofre (a TSB) that you may find helpful:
Driveline - Thump/Clunk Noise
Article No.
01-11-11
 
06/11/01
^ NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
 
^ DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
 
FORD:
1998-2001 RANGER
 
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.
 
ISSUE
 
Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.
 
ACTION
 
Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
 
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
 
2. Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
 
3. Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark. This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
 
4. Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
 
5. Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
 
6. Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
 
7. Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
 
8. Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.
 
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.

#502 of 2986 2002 ranger by bishof1

Aug 16, 2002 (7:19 pm)

Hello to All
I have a chance to buy a 2002 Ranger Super Cab 4D with auto, air and all the goodies. It is also the FX4 Off Road with running boards, bed liner, towing pack etc. It only has 1800 miles and price is 19,500. Based on what I see posted here this seems like a very fair price. I know the 2002 brand new have the 2500 rebate but this still seems good after factoring that in. Any thoughts?

#503 of 2986 bishof1... by frey44

Aug 17, 2002 (11:54 am)

FWIW, my thoughts. MAKE SURE that the FX4 you are buying does NOT have an axle problem, or an inadequate repair of original truck that may have resulted from an axle problem of earlier versions (well publicized). Also, make sure you test drive this truck adequately at highway speeds at various speeds such as 55 - 75 to make sure the ride is acceptable to you (IF you use your truck on the highway). Also, as I have posted many times, these Ranges have had many driveshaft balance and warpage problems. Look to see if the model you are buying has an aluminum (silver) 4 inch driveshaft. If it does, it has already been corrected. If not, carefully observed for thump-klunks and driveline lash from a dead stop, AND floorbaord vibration at highway speed (becoming very annoying after about 20 minutes of driving).
So make sure you test drive this vehicle LONG ENOUGH to be convinced it is tip top. Also, make sure it tracks straight (another infamous 4x4 toe-in Ranger quirk..these trucks don't tend to want to "self-center" their steering very well, and tend to wander more than many are used to. They are very sensitive to road camber, and tend to pull when driving on a cambered lane...no biggie when you get used to it.) The price is very reasonable, but also be warned that these trucks depreciate very fast...you can use this as leverage to knock another 500 bucks off of the price. Good luck. That is a cool looking truck.

#504 of 2986 2002 Ranger Shaking and Rumbling by suckerfish0

Aug 21, 2002 (12:46 am)

I just bought a Ford Ranger 2002 XLT, 3.0 manual, and it has been shaking ONLY IN IDLE since the day I bought it; however I didn't notice it until the day after. So I brought it back. The dealership hooked it to a computer and told me there was nothing wrong with it, but when I look under the hood, the engine looks like it has a bad case of heart burn. It rumbles and shakes so much you can see the truck shake from the outside. Ford is giving me the run around. I saw the same thing happen in post #37, but that was a long time ago. Before I file a lemon law suit, is anyone else out there experiencing the same problem, and/or know a solution?

#505 of 2986 by midnight_stang

Aug 21, 2002 (5:35 am)

There might be a throttle adjustment screw that you can adjust. On the throttle body, or just follow the throttle linkage. See if maybe 100-200 more RPM's could fix it. Also a good time to remove the air intake snorkle. That may help it breathe easier enough to reduce the shaking.
 
Things like that do not produce codes, typically. Sounds like the dealership was just trying to get you in and out. The trick is to ask if there is any remedy for the issue with a knowledgable 3.0l mechanic. As time progresses, and the engine gets broken in it may go away, or get worse.

#506 of 2986 by kirstie_h HOST

Aug 21, 2002 (4:56 pm)

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#508 of 2986 Temp gauge excursions by calamityjane

Aug 27, 2002 (5:10 am)

Howdy all!
 
Finally got my '92 Ranger 4.0L on the road a few weeks ago but I've been chasing a problem I can't find.
 
While cruising down the road under constant speed (or any other driving condition), the temp gauge sits at about 20% of full scale. Every once in awhile, it will climb to about 60% in 1 or 2 seconds. It sometimes stays there for almost a minute but often starts dropping again quickly, taking about 10 o 20 seconds to drop back to around 20%.
 
I have had 3 different thermostats in it (1 non-Ford part), changed the fan clutch and the temp sensor but it always behaves the same.
 
These excursions do not correlate with acceleration, speed, rough road, or any other condition I can think of.
 
I ran this morning with the heater on (been too hot to try that until now) and could not swear to any change in temp from the heater when the gauge went wacky.
 
I suspect the electrics of the temp gauge circuit but have not purchased the service manual yet to start tracking it down.
 
I was hoping to take my first long trip in the Ford this weekend but my confidence level in it is still lower than my '92 Jeep with more than twice the mileage.
 
Has anyone else had a similar problem and what did you find???

#509 of 2986 emissions problem (egr valve) by dle01

Aug 27, 2002 (1:52 pm)

I'm having a problem with the emissions system on my 99 Ranger (3.0 V6/Auto). A while back the check engine light came on and I noticed the truck running rough. The symptoms were a surging or hesitating sensation when travelling at a constant speed - most noticable at between 25 and 40 mph. There was also hesitation when accellerating from a stop.
 
While the truck was in for a regular oil change I had the shop (a Goodyear ASC, not a Ford Dealer) diagnose the problem. They diagnosed a faulty EGR valve and selonoid (sp?) which I had them replace. To make a long story short, the truck has been back to the same shop 4 times and the problem is not fixed yet. Each time, the truck runs better for a day or two and then the light comes back on and the symptoms return.
 
First, has anyone had this problem and if so how was it resolved? Second, do you think I will have better luck at a Ford dealer? I've already spent $200 on this problem with the Goodyear shop, and they have never charged me for subsequent visits. However, I am beginning to doubt that they are able to properly diagnose and repair this problem.
 
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
p.s calamityjane -- perhaps it is time to replace that gauge. I had a similar problem with a boat, and after trying lots of things out of caution it turned out to be the instrament. If it still reads hot with a new thermostat and a new gauge, you know you have more serious trouble.

Messages Page 51 of 299

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