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Ford Ranger, Truck
#436 of 2995 TSB on manual tranny.
Apr 26, 2002 (8:37 pm)
M/T - M5OD Buzzing/Grinding Noise
NOISE - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999
TRANSMISSION - M5OD - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" NOISE DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND
BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999
1998-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER
Some vehicles may exhibit a "buzzing" and/or "grinding" noise or a "notchy" feeling during the 2-3 upshift. This may be caused by the 3-4
Replace the 3-4 synchronizer assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
First, verify that vehicle exhibits a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation during 2-3 upshift and determine it your transmission serial
number is greater than the serial number listed below. If the vehicle does NOT exhibit a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation and is
greater than the serial number listed on the chart below, proceed with other appropriate diagnostics for repair. Reference the
appropriate Workshop Manual for assistance.
NOTE ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS GREATER THAN THE ONES LISTED BELOWARE NOT AFFECTED. USE THE CHART BELOW AND
THE SAMPLE TAG INFORMATION TO ASSIST IN DETERMINING IF THIS FIX IS APPLICABLE. THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS LOCATED ON
THE TAG ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.
TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER INFORMATION
Transmission Application Tag Transmission Serial Number
2.5L I-4 4X2 F87A - AB less than 0629756
3.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - CA less than 0628220
3.0L V-6 4X4 F87A - DA less than D624514
4.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - EA less than D639401
4.0L V-6 4X4 FB7A - FA less than 0627480
Drain all fluid from the transmission and remove the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop
Disassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
Inspect the brass blocking rings for any damage. If they are not damaged, reuse on reassembly.
Replace the synchronizer. Additionally, replace brass blocking rings if necessary.
Reassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
Reinstall the transmission and fill with new fluid. Test drive to verify repair.
NOTE AFTER THE REPAIR, THE TRANSMISSION MAY FEEL STIFF, ESPECIALLY IF THE BRASS BLOCKING RINGS WERE REPLACED. THIS WILL GO
AWAY AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERAL KILOMETERS/MILES, AS THE NEW BLOCKING RINGS NEED TIME TO RESEAT AGAINST THE
PART NUMBER PART NAME
F2TZ-7124-AB Synchronizer Assembly (2.5L And 3.0L)
F2TZ-7124-CA Synchronizer Assembly (4.0L)
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 505000
Apr 29, 2002 (4:19 pm)
i ended up opening the bleeder valve to get the caliper open, and i'm going to have it pressure bled by a shop since i don't trust myself to do as good a job as brake specialists could do on the bleeding. now, two days after replacing the pads, i developed a squeak on one side. is this just the new pads adjusting to the rotor (i didn't have them turned), and will it go away on its own, or should i put some more "disc brake quiet" goop on the back of the pads?
Apr 29, 2002 (5:32 pm)
The disc brake quiet spray was used on all brake jobs just to keep the customer happy. The fact of the matter is that as long as they perform well, and aren't vibrating on use, a squeak is nothing more than annoying. More than likely the rotor is a fraction out of round or just some residual crud on the rotors. Thats why you should try not to touch the rotors and get oil on them, because then the brake dust can stick and cause uneven wear to a small degree, and thus a small squeak.
Bleeding brakes is a fairly simple matter, but it just takes two people. One to open and close the valve, another to press the brake pedal. With the valve open, brake fluid will spray out with force on the pedal. Just close before the fluid stops. It's quite simple to do once you see it done, and it's fun to try to get the other tech sprayed with fluid, especially if it's first thing in the morning...
The only thing to check for is spongy brakes, that indicates a air bubble in the lines. You can test under hard braking to see which corner it's on, or just bleed them systematically. Over time brake fluid goes bad, so it's recommended to get fresh fluid into everything.
Just keep a close watch (feel) on the squeaky brake linings. What material did you go with? It could go away, especially with slow even braking over the next few weeks.
#439 of 2995 94 FORD RANGER CD Problem
Apr 30, 2002 (8:29 pm)
I am wondering if anyone has experiencing any problems with their CD player? Ours has slowly but consistently been continuing to try to play even though the CD has been ejected from the CD player. At first it only did it sometimes, now you can't insert a CD or play the radio due to the whirring noise of the CD player trying to eject/play a CD even though there is no CD in it.
Thanks for the help! D.Anne
#440 of 2995 Ranger XLT acting like it doesn't want to start
Apr 30, 2002 (8:33 pm)
We have a 94 Ranger XLT that has begun acting as if it doesn't want to always start. The battery is fairly new. I know little about vehicles and have no idea why there are times that it takes me a couple minutes to start the truck, but it seems to start easily at others. Also,there is a loud clinking noise--it almost sounds like something metal in the engine or exhause rattling, knocking or pinging. Sorry, I'm so poor at describing the sounds. ANY HELP OUT THERE? Thanks, Anne
#441 of 2995 What exactly to TSB's provide for the consumer?
Apr 30, 2002 (10:21 pm)
Apr 30, 2002 (10:23 pm)
Do TSB's provide the consumer with problems that the mfg expects the dealerships to resolve regardless of the age/mileage on a vehicle. Does the TSB entitle me to anything once the warranty is past?
May 01, 2002 (4:45 am)
Howdy folks! I'm new here.
After being a life-long Ford-basher, I now own one, a '92 with 4.0L engine, with 176,000 Km, in really nice shape! I have some questions about getting this truck road-worthy.
1 - I need to do the timing cover gasket and was thinking of pulling the rad to get at it. Is there a better way?
2 - For the new timing cover gasket, I was going to use shellac on the cover side (so it won't slip again) and Permatex #2 on the engine side. Sound ok?
3 - Should I replace the timing chain while I'm in there?
The rest of the work is stright forward, brakes all the way around, exhaust system, and a couple little things.
Dang! I own a #$%$% Ford.....
#444 of 2995 Welcome to edmunds.com folks!
May 01, 2002 (5:33 am)
4safetysake---> I don't know about the CD Player too much as I yanked my 93 cassette player on or about 1995. Had it stolen twice, and now am on my third head unit(cd/player). While Ford offers some pretty decent stereo's in their vehicles, they are by no means top notch. The aftermarket can provide an cheap alternative, that may be worth looking into. For a little under or over a hundred dollars you should have a nice CD player installed. You don't have to go too fancy, as the stock speakers are probably somewhat worn and won't be able to handle alot of power.
Other alternatives would be to try a CD cleaner disc or try spraying some compressed air into the unit to clear up any built up grime. This is not a sure fix, but it may help out.
calamityjane--->176000 Km (or just over 100,000 miles) is pretty good milage. My '93 is up to 139,500 miles (or ~224455 Km) but that is with a 2.3l 4 cylinder.
Just about any tube or RTV Silicon will do, I prefer Permatex Ultra Black Hi Temp RTV. And if you're a new owner of the vehicle, a new timing chain will only be good insurance at that point. Most chains should go 100,000 miles, but not always. Check your manual for an exact time to change it in milage. Replacing the timing chain could help eliminate any slack in the valve timing.
As far as the radiator, just depends on you. It shouldn't be required to pull, but sometimes that extra space is oh so handy to have. Besides the coolant mess, there should only be two brackets on either side of the radiator top, holding it in place.
Also I would recommend a Haynes or Chilton's service manual for your vehicle. One of these (or something equivalent) should be available in Canada, and they explain how to do just about everything to the vehicle. They even include step by step photos on most procedures, so it can be a big help on knowing what to do and when. Try picking one up, or at least read through one on the timing cover gasket and chain replacement. You'll swear by them afterwards.
#445 of 2995 4safetysake
May 01, 2002 (2:09 pm)
You could have a catalytic converter that is coming apart; that could be the source of the rattle AND the hard-start (due to excessive back pressure to the engine).
A "TSB" (i.e. technical service bulletin) is a bulletin issued by the manufacturer for the DEALER SERVICE DEPT>This is authored to help the dealer repair specific problems of a vehicle. This may, or may not, lead to something more significant such as a formal "RECALL", which is basically forced upon the manufacturer by the government. TSB's I have found to be very helpful: they reveal UP TO DATE methods [and tell about revised parts...incuding PART NUMBERS of newly engineered parts] to repair sometimes difficult problems (that would otherwise NOT be revealed in a Haynes or Chilton manual). A recent TSB has helped me diagnose a major vibration problem in a nearly new Ranger, for example [The fix is to switch TO an aluminum driveshaft FROM the original tube of solid rust]. These TSB's can be downloaded, for a 1 year subscription fee for one vehicle, from www.alldata.com. Well worth the 25 bucks. Each addition vehicle costs another 15 bucks...a steal, IMHO, considering the info available. Good luck.