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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Ranger, Truck

Messages Page 44 of 300

#423 of 2986 01 & 02 Ranger 2.3 Coolant leaks. by wgramlich

Apr 18, 2002 (1:03 pm)

I had a 2001 Ranger 2.3 that keeped leaking coolant because of a high pressure coolant system. It qualified as a lemon and had screw clams added to all the hoses and replaced 4 yea FOUR radiators. I bought a 2002 2.3 and already had a hose come off and replace the radiator 1 time, so far. I Don't recommend buying a Ranger 2.3 until FORD fixes this issue.
 
Comments or Questions welcome to Wgramlichyahoo.com.

#424 of 2986 '96 Ranger Oil lLeaks by abhair

Apr 19, 2002 (10:03 am)

My Ranger drips slight amounts of oil from time to time. It may go a week with out a drip them a small puddle. The Ford dealer says $650 to $750 to pull the engine and fix. At this point is not feasible or necessary. No one can spot the location of the leak but Ford dealer wants to use a blue dye in the oil to find. - a possible.
Today I saw to brands of oil (Penzoil & Valolene) that state they will stop or reduce oil drips.
I have been using Mobil1 5-30 for 94000.This is a 4.0 L engine.
Does any one have info on these reduce drip oils?

#425 of 2986 Oil drip. by frey44

Apr 19, 2002 (2:31 pm)

A likely place to leak is the REAR SEAL, a well documented leak, especially if you are experience any vibration in the tranny-drivetrain that would impose a seal-eating vibe into the rear of the engine. The shakes can induce leaks, especially on rotating shafts.

#426 of 2986 Ranger Oil Drips by abhair

Apr 20, 2002 (5:31 am)

Thanks to frey44 - I was very surprised to find these procedures involve pulling the engine or at least very complex. At this time I am going to try the new Valvoline Maxlife oil that is supposed to seal and prevent leaks. I got the specs from the Valvoline web sight and they look good. I still am very interested in any info on the new oil. I see that Pensoil also has this.

#427 of 2986 disc brake job / broken stud by crispyfries

Apr 23, 2002 (3:21 pm)

First, thanks for the battery info. Now, I have an issue w/ replacing the front disc pads. First, I need to know what is involved in replacing a broken stud on a front hub? It appears that you ought to be able to punch the broken one out and just replace, but I can't see from the back where/how this would be done. Whoever put the lug on last time cross-threaded it since I couldn't get it off w/out it snapping off, so now I have to replace it. Second, my pops (longtime Ford man) said that in order to do the front brakes properly, you must open the bleeder valve when spreading the caliper to insert the new pads, then shut right away of course to avoid air entering the line. This is preferred over opening the master cyl reservoir cover to allow for backflow of brake fluid in the system. It will screw up the system somehow by doing it this way supposedly, but I just wanted to verify w/ someone that this is true before I go at it myself. Other precautions when replacing the front pads would be cool if they're out there. Thanks.

#428 of 2986 I've never replaced a broken stud by midnight_stang

Apr 23, 2002 (3:41 pm)

But I believe it's just like you say. You remove the whole assembly and punch it out with an impact chisel.
 
The way I prefer to do brakes is open the bleeder valve only after everything is back in place, and have someone press the brake pedal. This obviously takes two people, but you can bleed the brakes pretty well. Just close the valve after a fair amount of fluid bleeds out. Make sure you close it before it stops bleeding out.
 
Doing that at all four corners will ensure fresh fluid in all the lines. Just place fresh fluid in the master cylinder before and after bleeding the brakes.
 
So only open the valve after you have the caliper and new pads in place.

#429 of 2986 K & N air filter by crispyfries

Apr 23, 2002 (3:48 pm)

What knowledge can you all give about installing/using a K & N air filter for my '99 4X4 4.0L? Where to get a good deal on one? Pro's & Con's, etc? Thanks.

#430 of 2986 OK midnight_stang, but what if... by crispyfries

Apr 23, 2002 (3:55 pm)

I can't get the new pads in place w/ out spreading the caliper open, and by doing so backflushing a small amt of fluid into the lines? I would think I would have to have something open in order to spread the caliper enough for the new pads to fit, but I could be wrong. I've only done this on my '71 VW bus.

#431 of 2986 Chattering Noise by jouie

Apr 23, 2002 (4:28 pm)

My 1999 Ford Ranger 4.0L makes a slight chattering noise while idling. It only has 36,000 miles. A local mechanic tells me that my timing chain is loose and it needs to be tightened before it breaks. Is he telling the truth?

#432 of 2986 Crispy by midnight_stang

Apr 23, 2002 (7:44 pm)

Do what you gotta do to get the pads on. Clamp it down, open the bleeder valve, whatever. Just after you put the caliper back on the spindle, just make sure you bleed it well. Then any "backflushed" fluid will be long gone. Brake fluid is fairly cheap, might as well just flush it through.

Messages Page 44 of 300

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