Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 5:49 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#418 of 2995 Crispyfries...more info on vibration.
Apr 12, 2002 (2:14 pm)
I just bought a subscription to AllData for my 2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 Ext. cab.
It is WELL WORTH the 25 bucks. Lieterally REAMS of info are available: TSB's, shop manual procedures, exploded diagrams, etc. Here is something interesting I am going to pursue with Ford. It appears they recommend replacing the 3.5 inch steel driveshaft with an ALUMINUM 4.0 inch version.
The part number is: 1L5Z 4602 JM for the 1998-00 Ranger. This is for the REAR driveshaft (NOT including the slip yoke). AllData lists a price for a rear driveshaft (although the same part number does not match up..perhaps this id due to older part number OR that is a number for a STEEL shaft) for extended cab Ranger at about $ 390.00 US. [I am assuming the alloy shaft would be priced in that ballpark, or slightly higher]. It may be worth it to you (if your truck is out of warranty) to consider simply buying this shaft outright from a Ford dealer and installing it yourself. Also, an outfit called "Denny's Driveshaft" can custom build a similar alloy shaft for about that price. My research is showing that these lighter weight shafts smoothe out these trucks a lot, and may be wroth a try, if wheel/tire/ aligment methods don't do the trick. Just a thought. ALSO, GET A SHOP WHO IS KNOWLEDGABLE to remove and check trueness [i.e. via runout gauge] and balance of your driveshaft and GREASE IT PROPERLY and reinstall. It can be done for about 60-80 bucks, and may also solve problems. Good luck to you, sir.
#419 of 2995 allknowing.......
Apr 12, 2002 (11:03 pm)
who said anything about destroying the beaten path? im talking about pulling dead just cut down trees into areas that a person with a chain saw can cut them up more conveniently. you know, a tree falls and then you just pull it up to the area you're cutting. or do you ever cut wood? up here in iowa, it's nice to have a nice wood stove heat you in the winter. later
ps. nice to see you at least have one ford.
Apr 17, 2002 (4:41 pm)
I spent a few hours washing/cleaning my new truck last week, and in that time my battery went dead since I had the doors open while cleaning the inside. It seems to me the battery shouldn't be sucked down completely w/ only the dome light lit for a spell. I didn't have the radio on or anything else. I was told that at 60K miles, it might be time to replace. The charge indicator on the battery is still green though. Is it time to replace, and can I get a meatier battery that will last longer and let me have the doors open w/out being drained?
#421 of 2995 BATTERY.
Apr 17, 2002 (6:19 pm)
First, check to MAKE SURE your battery is charging properly. Put a multitester across your terminals with the engine running and see if you're getting about 14 volts of output from the alternator. Next, take the time to pull the battery out, go to your local Autozone, and have a load test put on the battery. You will be able to quickly determine if you have a battery or charging problem. If your truck is 2 or 3 years old, you could easily have a shot battery, or one with a bad (nonconducting) cell. Not that uncommon; the OE batteries are CHEAP.
Apr 18, 2002 (6:11 am)
Use to work there, delivering parts. The Rangers I used to drive there are still running(some probably over 300k now), but that's another story.
First, make sure the battery hasn't dried up on you. I live in Texas, and the summers here are usually in the 100's. Maybe twice a year, I pop the caps off the battery, to make sure there is the water (and electrolyte) solution hasn't evaporated.
If the battery isn't completely full, get some DISTILLED water and fill it up. You may have to leave the battery on a charger if you have gone a long time with a half full battery.
If the battery is beyond hope, or just showing it's age, it's worth while and pretty simple to just replace it. You can check the battery for a sticker that will show the date the battery was made. It is usually a letter indicating month, followed by a one digit year. (A1) would mean January of 2001. B=Feb. etc.
If you can't see the sticker, or it's unreadable, it's probably time to change it anyways.
Things to look for:
CCA=Cold Cranking Amps. This is the amount of amps your battery is rated to deliver, at or above 7 volts) for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F.
You battery should always meet or exceed OEM CCA specs. Mine is around 900 CCA (Duralast-Gold), which is one of the biggest Autozone sells, and it has lasted at least 3-4 years. Never had a problem turning my 2.3l over. Also, the colder the climate, the more amps you need because a cold battery is not working at full potential. In warmer climates a high CCA battery might be overkill, but usually they are only a few dollars more.
RC=Reserve Capacity. This is the number of minutes the battery can deliver over 20 amps, until the voltage falls below 10 volts. More RC is better, always!
#423 of 2995 01 & 02 Ranger 2.3 Coolant leaks.
Apr 18, 2002 (12:03 pm)
I had a 2001 Ranger 2.3 that keeped leaking coolant because of a high pressure coolant system. It qualified as a lemon and had screw clams added to all the hoses and replaced 4 yea FOUR radiators. I bought a 2002 2.3 and already had a hose come off and replace the radiator 1 time, so far. I Don't recommend buying a Ranger 2.3 until FORD fixes this issue.
Comments or Questions welcome to Wgramlichyahoo.com.
#424 of 2995 '96 Ranger Oil lLeaks
Apr 19, 2002 (9:03 am)
My Ranger drips slight amounts of oil from time to time. It may go a week with out a drip them a small puddle. The Ford dealer says $650 to $750 to pull the engine and fix. At this point is not feasible or necessary. No one can spot the location of the leak but Ford dealer wants to use a blue dye in the oil to find. - a possible.
Today I saw to brands of oil (Penzoil & Valolene) that state they will stop or reduce oil drips.
I have been using Mobil1 5-30 for 94000.This is a 4.0 L engine.
Does any one have info on these reduce drip oils?
#425 of 2995 Oil drip.
Apr 19, 2002 (1:31 pm)
A likely place to leak is the REAR SEAL, a well documented leak, especially if you are experience any vibration in the tranny-drivetrain that would impose a seal-eating vibe into the rear of the engine. The shakes can induce leaks, especially on rotating shafts.
#426 of 2995 Ranger Oil Drips
Apr 20, 2002 (4:31 am)
Thanks to frey44 - I was very surprised to find these procedures involve pulling the engine or at least very complex. At this time I am going to try the new Valvoline Maxlife oil that is supposed to seal and prevent leaks. I got the specs from the Valvoline web sight and they look good. I still am very interested in any info on the new oil. I see that Pensoil also has this.
#427 of 2995 disc brake job / broken stud
Apr 23, 2002 (2:21 pm)
First, thanks for the battery info. Now, I have an issue w/ replacing the front disc pads. First, I need to know what is involved in replacing a broken stud on a front hub? It appears that you ought to be able to punch the broken one out and just replace, but I can't see from the back where/how this would be done. Whoever put the lug on last time cross-threaded it since I couldn't get it off w/out it snapping off, so now I have to replace it. Second, my pops (longtime Ford man) said that in order to do the front brakes properly, you must open the bleeder valve when spreading the caliper to insert the new pads, then shut right away of course to avoid air entering the line. This is preferred over opening the master cyl reservoir cover to allow for backflow of brake fluid in the system. It will screw up the system somehow by doing it this way supposedly, but I just wanted to verify w/ someone that this is true before I go at it myself. Other precautions when replacing the front pads would be cool if they're out there. Thanks.