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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair
2831 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 12:42 PM
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We recently purchased a 96 Ranger with 47000 miles on it. Shortly after filling with gas for the first time, the check engine light came on. We brought it into the mechanic, and the diagnostic code was something to do with the fuel line. He switched the light off and suggested that the gas cap may not have been put on right and if the light went back on to get a replacement gas cap. The light went back on after about 25 miles. We replaced the gas cap and brought it back in. He turned the light off again and drove it for a while. The light just went on again. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance for any help.
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| This is a common problem for the Rangers with extended cabs. You get a shuttering feeling when coming to a stop or when accelerating from a stop. I don't have the TSB number but I had mine serviced. I has to so with the extension flange used on the extended cab driveline. Something about gresing the flange. I'm at work but when Iget home I will try to look for my service report. You can also try www.alldata.com and look under TSBs for the trucks if not listed under 99 try 98 ( mine and this is where I found out about it) | |
| Hello, I leased a then-new 1999 Ranger XLT Super-Cab Flareside 4x4 with 4 liter automatic. Last year noticed 'ping' type noise when pressing gas after going to reverse, then another ping when going into drive. At the same time I noticed a slight jolt on light acceleration only, from a stop. Mechanic drove it, walked over to the computer, typed in my year, and said to me "ok, we have a tsb on a transfer case flange, that's the ping noise. We have a tsb on driveshafts, that's the jolt. Set an appointment, we'll do both at the same time." And they did, acceleration from a stop is hot-butter smooth. Has been for a year now. Developed the 'hey, the wipers just activated' bug while driving down the road, usually for one wipe only. Took it in, they said yep, we'll get you a new wiper switch. Buying new (thus having a warranty) is the way to go, I see the light now! I can't imagine how much the driveshaft would have cost a consumer. The a/c has a disagreeable odor, this is the one thing they are mystified on. They have sprayed disinfectant into the vents, which only helps for a few days, they said yes it's a problem with some vehicles, but Ford has not recognized it yet. Even so,the smell only lasts for 10-20 seconds when you first turn it on, then it's gone. A small price to pay for a truck that has run absolutely flawlessly since the TSBs. It has 17k on it, I get 20mpg with a tonneou cover averaging 86mph. It's hauled everything I can give it, 500 lbs. motorcycle, 50 inch tv, furniture. This thing does not even know 1200 lbs of trailer are behind it. Altho the brakes notice, a little bit, lol. I love this truck to death, roomier than an s10, swings around cramped walmart lots with ease, yet smokes the tire (no locking diff) easily. Get compliments all the time, but will trade it for a used Aerostar so I can lock my bike and tools inside the back. Sorry for the long post. | |
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Take your truck to a different mechanic. The previous one probably didn't even pull the codes, or he didn't know what they meant or how to fix them. If the check engine light is coming back, a sensor is not sending correct readings to the computer. And there is something that needs fixed. P.S. To 'turn the check engine light off' all he did was unhook the battery cable for a few minutes. |
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I did find out the actual code after I posted the message. It was for "evaporative emission flow". I took it to a mechanic that was recommended. We have always bought new cars and taken them to the dealership for service. Have people has better luck with private mechanics or dealerships? |
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| Frankly, I have had good luck and good service from the dealers. But, living just outside of Albuquerque, NM where Ford trucks are everywhere and the dealers are huge - probably matters in terms of what they see and how much they learn quickly about fixing things. At least in my area, I recommend the dealers. | |
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1999 Ford 3.0L V6. Pings all the time. I've had two computer chips installed, run Chevron fuel for 20 tanks, used Sea Foam gasoline additive. What to do next? I run at 65-70 mph to/from work five days a week and still the thing pings. Ford dealers (two) say that they can do no more. Every time I pull a hill at 65 mph, it pings. Any help?
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I have seen a couple of other members here posting about a problem with the jolt/shuddering of the xtra cab 4x4. I too have the problem but I am out of warranty. Is the "99-13-4 JUN 99 Thumping/Bumping Felt On Light Acceleration/Deceleration" the correct TSB? I saw this on on the http://www.alldata.com/TSB/20/982023C3.html site. Does anyone know if this a factory recall or just something ford has discovered to be defective and replaced for in warranty vehi's? Maybe someone can direct me to the problem and I can fix myself. Also, For those who have had the problem fixed, what was the cost? Thanks in advance.
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Probably had that starting with my 1998 Ranger 4X4, but then the engine died before the driveline. There are a lot of posts concerning this problem - the driveshaft needs lube as it connects into the rear diff. Frankly, I would make Ford fix it - they know they have "cheaped out" the Ranger in the last few years.
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I have a 92 Ranger that I bought with 46000 miles on it 4 years ago, now has 98000. Recently, I started having problems with the check engine light coming on and then nothing at the gas pedal as if it was flooded. It gets very hard to start, when it does start, usually after 10 minutes it acts like it not getting any gas. So I've taken it to two dealerships, they ran several sensor and computer tests on the entire truck and can't find anything wrong. I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, coil, cap, rotor, spark plug wires and battery and still the same problems. Sometimes it runs fine and then all of a sudden stalls and refuses to start again, also when this happens the temperature and amp gauges go to zero. I've checked all of the electrical connections and grounds, still nothing... Can anyone help!! I've given up on dealers and the high cost of not finding anything wrong..
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