Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 5:49 AM
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Ford Ranger, Truck
#2584 of 2995 Re: A few problems with my Ranger... [jujitsuthor]
Sep 08, 2007 (9:11 pm)
"So I've got a 2001 Ranger EDGE, 4x4 4.0 Liter, 4-Speed Auto with about 106,000 miles on it.
Well, at 106,000 miles, you, or previous owners, have gotten a lot of the 'good' out of this truck. But I will give you some guesses about what might be wrong. But first, is the 'check engine' light on? If so, have the 'codes' pulled and someone tell you what they mean. Some of the things you have going wrong might have some code/codes set that would give excellent guidance about repairs needed.
"First thing's electrical (I think). When I turn on my lights, all four lights come on fine. When I turn on my right blinker or hit my brakes, my back-right blinker and brakelight don't come on. I thought the brake light was just basically a brighter version of the regular light, so maybe a fuse? Dunno about the blinker though...
Electrical can be tough to find. If one brake light comes on, but not the other, its not a fuse problem. One is coming on, right?
I would first go for the more simple things.
Has someone cut into the rear wires and put a trailer light package on it? If so, this 'cutting' should be the very first thing to check. Or, the wiring in the tailer wires. If you have this, and do not intend to tow a trailer, I would recommend taking it off, making sure the wires are re-connected and taped well.
Then look at the rear wiring. First try to find the grounds back there. One or more black wire probably is screwed into the body or frame for the rear grounding. If you find this, make sure this is secure and not rusted up.
Next, take the lenses apart. Pull the bulbs out. Look for overheating, melting, etc. Look for corrision inside the bulb housings. Look at the back of the lens to be sure the wiring is intact. Look to see none of the bulbs are burned out. If you have any of these problems, the simplest thing might to be completely replace the lens, housing, and wiring - it is all one piece usually.
If this is all good, it might be the 'multi-switch' in the steering column. One switch inside the column usually controls the turn signals, dimmer, wipers, washer, etc. It can fail. It's not easy to diagnois or replace, and not cheap.
"Next is startup in the morning. I turn it on and the engine almost dies. It drops to about 100RPMs (Yeah, 100, not 1000) but doesn't die. If I pump the gas, the RPMs jump back up and stay up.
Idle Air Control. A black and metal cylinder somewhat larger than a 35mm film cannister. On the left side of the intake manifold with two wires into it. This is the main controller of the idle speed. It has an electrical solonid and small valve inside. And can be take off and the valve cleaned with carb cleaner. DO NOT LET carb cleaner get into the electrical end of this thing, it will eat the winding up! Carefull removal should let the gasket remain intact - two small bolts hold it on. A new one is about $65.
Something simpler - the throttle butterfly valve could be sticking in the intake. Due to 'crud' from gas fumes building up over this many miles. Or the throttle linkage itself is sticking in the cable. Have you ever 'pumped the gas' before cranking? If the idle is then ok, you have a linkage or valve sticking problem. You can take the big black hose apart and get into the intake manifold where the main throttle linkage is and scrub the 'crud' from the surface where the butterfly contacts the intake, and both the front and back of the valve itself. Using electrical or carb cleaner, clean rags, and a toothbrush. (Ford posts warning about using carb cleaner here for some reason - some c**p about 'special coating on the inside of the intake', but if crud builds up in here and causes problems, it's got to be removed.)
"It also doesn't want to go into gear when I put it in drive in the morning. It sits there until I rev it to about 2000RPMs and then catches. I just had a transmission flush a couple weeks ago, might be the problem? Both only happen after I've left it off for around 10-12+ hours.
Did it do this BEFORE the 'flush'???? If not, then the flush screwed you up. This is the reason most knowledgable people do not do 'tranny flushes', especially on high milage trannys. It can break crud loose which then becomes lodged in small holes where it should not be. And cause problems. Most of these are ripoffs at oil-change places. Bet this is where you got the flush, right?
In any case, you've got tranny problems. Another thing about 'flushes', they probably did not drop the pan and change the filter. If this were my truck, I would check the owners manual for the correct tranny fluid, buy a case (or two) and two new filters. Drop the tranny pan, replace the filter, refill the fluid and drive it for a week. Then drop the pan, replace the filter and refill. This MIGHT help the shifting problem. And it MIGHT NOT!
"Last thing (thanks for reading all this) is a strange noise my truck just started making a couple days ago on my way home from lunch. It's like a metal dropped on metal sound (like if you dropped a quarter on a metal bar, or into a glass). It gets faster and louder the higher my RPMs. A couple people have told me it might be my fan hitting something, but anyone had the same problem? Thanks for all the help guys, I know this post is long!
If this is from the middle of the truck, Rangers about this time had some problems with noise from the drive shaft. Ford replaced a lot of these, under warranty. Different splines, different material in shaft, not sure exactly what changed. You probably also have a 'split driveshaft'. It other words, there is a big bearing in the center of the shaft, with actually two shafts under there, a front and a rear. This center bearing can wear, making noise.
Do you think you can do any of the things I've discussed above? If not, then stop asking questions about them, start saving your money, and take the truck to a mechanic for repair.
#2585 of 2995 Re: '98 Ranger high idle [pjama]
Sep 23, 2007 (6:08 pm)
Does this happen when you first start the truck, if it does, mine does the same thing as it is normal. when you start it, the engine revvs up to do a quick warmup, then it idles down to about 1000 rpmsh
#2586 of 2995 Re: '98 Ranger high idle [fordman07]
Sep 24, 2007 (5:00 am)
if your engine light is on the high idle could be caused by the crank sensor. not sure if they work the same on the V6 but that was the problem in my 97 4 cyl. the idle was at 1000 rpm!
#2587 of 2995 Re: ranger problems [dannyb]
Sep 27, 2007 (11:47 am)
just wondering if you found the problem with your truck. Mine just started doing same thing.
#2590 of 2995 Re: 90 ranger no go [clr0813]
Oct 06, 2007 (8:36 pm)
I know it's been a while, but if you still remember how to install a timing belt on a 93 Ranger (2.3 Liter, manual), it would really help me out!!
#2591 of 2995 Re: 90 ranger no go [danstevens]
Oct 07, 2007 (5:51 am)
first of all you need to get the crank at TDC then the distributor gear that one is easy i useualy took the cap off and set the dist. pointing at the # 1 wire on the cap the gear should have a small notch on it pointing toward the top, and the cam will have 2 marks on it one will point to the top and the other will be about 10 deg. to the right from bottom center. hope this helps!
#2592 of 2995 2001 Ford Ranger Problems
Oct 07, 2007 (8:54 pm)
I bought my 2001 3.0 2wd xlt ext. cab stepside ranger about 5 years ago with about 36,000 miles on it. Now its around 85,000. In that time period, countless things have broken on it.
1. It used to make an awful high pitches squealing noise whenever I'd accelerate from a stop, and get worse the faster I went until i reached about 35mph.
2. I was coming to a stop sign one night, and it just died and would not restart. Apparently, a wire melted somewhere.
3. Both power window motors have gone out.
4. The driver door panel broke so I can't use the handle to close my door. They want $500 to fix that, so its probably going to stay broken.
5. Multiple problems with the brakes.
6. The button for my cruise control just fell of my stewing wheel.
7. CD player skips cd's like crazy, esp when I hit bumps.
8. AC went out and they want $900 to fix it. I can do without it.
9. Transmission is slipping like crazy. Had it serviced and it began doing it again 2 weeks later as I was merging onto the interstate.
Can you imagine how I feel about fords now? In the process of selling it now. Sharp looking truck but I just can't take it anymore. I'm sure there are few more issues I've had with it that I just can't think of. Any one else have some of these problems?
#2593 of 2995 Door Light Switch
Oct 08, 2007 (10:53 am)
99 Ranger XLT - extended cab w/ 1/2 doors
I get the "door ajar" problem with the passenger door occasionally, and the dome light staying on. From other posts I was going to try cleaning the door switch. I thought it was the black plunger located just inside the outside return bend of the sheet metal at handle level, but when I pulled the interior panel off all that it appears to be is a clip which is securing the lock cylinder. No electrical goes into it.
Probably a stupid question, but where is the sensor? I didn't see anything else that looked like one on the door jamb, but I know it's there somewhere.