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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2831 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 12:42 PM

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#2482 of 2831 2004 ford ranger fuel problem by usafcbrown Mar 28, 2007 (11:07 am)
I unpluged the connector under the reset button, and it looks a little melted. I think i'll change the connector and button. thanks for your help
#2483 of 2831 Re: Ford Ranger oil pump by mrmojorip1971 Mar 31, 2007 (12:34 pm)
Replying to: coloneldan (Nov 08, 2003 10:40 am) PLEASE HELP!!!....I have a 99 Ranger automatic 2 wheel drive 3.0 V-6 My oil pump is shot. I have been trying very hard to get the oil pan off to get at the pump. All pan bolts are off. Motor mounts are unbolted and I have the engine lifted about as far as it can go. Starter is removed. Tranny inspection plate is removed. Oil dip stick tube is removed. Oil pan is free and can be moved around fairly well but seems to be held in place by the oil pump lift tube assembally. I can't seem to get at the bolts to drop the pump into the pan......Is there anything that I can do to get the lift tube away from the pump. I can't see how it is attached or what holds it on or is there something else that I need to do to get at the oil pump? I am at my wits end and I cant see anything else to take off that would give me any more room....Any advice would be helpfull. Please be as detailed as possible.
#2486 of 2831 Re: Brakes going mushy prior to complete stop [tukeanu] by buster15 Mar 31, 2007 (4:57 pm)
Replying to: tukeanu (Mar 14, 2007 5:58 pm) Hey Tukeanu:   Thks for the info and glad you did not get screwed (too bad). The dealer who told me the sensor was built into the hub assy was the Ford dealer in Belleville Ontario (Fry Ford)613-962-8691 or 1-800-267-3339. If you decide to call them out of curiosity post/e-mail back.   Thks Dave
#2488 of 2831 Distributor problem by pinhead2 Apr 15, 2007 (11:44 am)
My 86 Ranger with 2.0 was skipping. So I gave it a tune up with little change in performance. The problem got worse until truck would almost not run. So I pulled the distributor and saw that the pin for the distributor gear was sheared. I picked up a rebuilt and tried to install. The new distributor will Not drop in when I position the #1 cyl. at TDC. It will only drop in a position that is completely out of time. Is the part defective or gear in crankcase bad? Need help, any suggestions (besides junk it)? Please Help,pinhead2 Replies to this message: fordtech (Apr 15, 2007 4:59 pm) wookie1 (Apr 16, 2007 5:24 pm)
#2489 of 2831 Re: Distributor problem [pinhead2] by fordtech Apr 15, 2007 (4:59 pm)
Replying to: pinhead2 (Apr 15, 2007 11:44 am) The reason it wont drop in with #1 at TDC is because the oil pump shaft is not lining up. You need to get a 5/16th socket on an extension and turn the shaft to line up with the socket on the distributor.
#2490 of 2831 Re: Distributor problem [pinhead2] by wookie1 Apr 16, 2007 (5:24 pm)
Replying to: pinhead2 (Apr 15, 2007 11:44 am) you can also get the distributor to drop in by turning the engine by hand!
#2491 of 2831 Distributor Solved now no Spark by pinhead2 Apr 19, 2007 (2:16 pm)
86FordRanger w/2.0: Distributor is now correctly installed. I have also installed a new coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and a electronic ignition module. I've got juice on both sides of coil. I've got spark to top of coil. Virtaully, no spark is at the plugs. Occasionally will get limited weak spark when I ease off the starter. Someone told me to replace idle control module on passenger side wheel-well (same size as ignition control module on the driver side of the vehicle). I'm sick of replacing parts, something tells me the problem lies elsewhere. Any suggestions? Thanks, Pinhead 2. Replies to this message: wookie1 (Apr 19, 2007 4:40 pm) pinhead2 (Apr 19, 2007 4:49 pm) wookie1 (Apr 25, 2007 3:27 am)

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