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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

2986 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:47 AM

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Messages Page 234 of 299

#2331 of 2986 Re: 2001 Ford Ranger ABS light illuminated [dbmhawaii] by gasgas321

Sep 04, 2006 (5:29 pm)

Replying to: dbmhawaii (Aug 21, 2006 6:30 pm)
hey, i had a similar problem in my 2K ranger 2.5L my speed sensor in my rear diff. went out, and my abs kept turning on and the abs light was stuck on. I put a new one, and it still didn't fix it. I cleaned all of my blinker and brake light terminals in the front and back of the truck, and weird, but true, it fixed the abs light and problem. I had a bad ground, and it was grouinding backl through my abs.
 
GasGas 321

#2332 of 2986 Re: 2002 Ford Ranger Vibration [garycox] by garycox

Sep 05, 2006 (10:52 am)

Replying to: garycox (Aug 21, 2006 7:33 am)
Just an update, I replaced the Goodyear tires with Cooper made Mastercraft tires and they are running smooth. So the problem was with the Goodyear tires... Gary

#2333 of 2986 MPG???? by montess2k4

Sep 08, 2006 (11:28 am)

I have a 2001 ranger xl 3.0 longbed. I recently put new plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter on the truck. Before i did all this i was at 17 mpg. After all the work i am still sitting at 17 mpg. What gives? Can anyone help? Thanks!

#2334 of 2986 2001 Ranger Fuse#2 Blows when shifted into drive or reverse! by txrottie

Sep 08, 2006 (3:33 pm)

My 2001 Edge, 3.0 v6 has a problem I can't find any information on. Fuse #2 blows every time I shift out to drive or reverse. The airbag light comes on, I have no overdrive, the A/C - heater fan won't blow and I have no reverse lights. The manual says all of these are functions fall on Fuse #2. Someone suggested changing the reverse switch on the transmission. I did that and it did nothing. Whenever I put a new fuse in it everything works fine until I shift.
 
I called a dealer and the service guy said he saw this once before and it was a wire that ran from the overdrive button on the gear shifter to the column. He said they sometimes short out and it could be it. Of course without looking at it I really don't expect an instant answer.
 
If anyone out there has had an experience like this or is more knowledgeable about this stuff than I am (it doesn't take a lot) PLEASE give me some input I don't want to start tearing more crap apart if it isn't really needed. The service people here in Germany charge an unreal amount of money to do anything so I want to avoid them if at all posible.
 
Thanks

#2335 of 2986 2001 Ranger Fuse#2 problem fixed by txrottie

Sep 09, 2006 (10:03 am)

Turns out the wire running from the overdrive button had a bare spot on it from rubbing against metal in the column. Easy fix and I'm glad I didn't end up taking it to a dealer and getting hosed.
 

#2336 of 2986 2004 Ranger Misfire by gasgas321

Sep 09, 2006 (2:48 pm)

Ok all, I have a problem. I have a 2K4 3.0 v6 ranger misfiring, i think on cylinder 2. I had a valve job done on both heads, cylinders 5,6 had burned exhaust valves, and pounded seats, and cylinder 2 had burned exhaust valve and pounded seat. No one is driving it like a maniac either. It is my dad's truck, and he drives it just like any regular person.
     It has 80K ish miles on it. I replaced the throttle position sensor, plugs, wires, coil pack, valve job on both heads, all new gaskets, checked the fuel injectors with the ohm meter, and they are reading 13.5 ohms, which is within tolerance (12-16 ohms), fuel pressure is up, no codes are coming up on my code reader. I am running out of things that can be wrong with it, and still am not figuring it out.
     Here is the kicker... I can unplug the wiring to cylinder 2 fuel injector, and the truck starts running worse, but if i leave it hooked up, i can unplug cylinders 1 + 3 fuel injectors, and the truck doesn't notice a difference. Ok, so i switched cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 injectors, and still, cylinder 2 is the only one to have an effect on the engine.
     I have been working on this truck for a while now, and still, no progress. The misfire is slight, but still there, if you listen closely, and when you are accelerating on the freeway, it gets BAD. I hooked up the plug wires to the coil pack, according to my Chilton's manual, but when i do that, the truck will NOT run. AT ALL!! I can get it to spin over a couple of times, but the engine is trying to jump out into my neighbors yard. I hooked the wires up according to the firing order rather than what the manual said, and it runs well, but still has that little misfire. Any help would be nice.
 
Thanks

#2337 of 2986 1999 Ranger Directional Light by kennyb2

Sep 09, 2006 (8:18 pm)

I have a 1999 Ranger 4X4 XLT Ex-cab V6 4.0. The left side directional light seems to get stuck on at random. Any ideas? The right side always works.

#2338 of 2986 Re: 1999 Ranger Directional Light [kennyb2] by gasgas321

Sep 09, 2006 (10:20 pm)

Replying to: kennyb2 (Sep 09, 2006 8:18 pm)
it could be the actual blinker box thing
 
There should be a little square box under your dash that has some prongs sticking out of the top of it, that hook up to some wiring. That box is what makes your blinkers work, and that is the sound you here when it is on. To find it, turn your blinker on, and follow the sound

#2339 of 2986 Re: trans or fuel problem. (hesitating and jerking when accelerating) [wijoco] by mpwbw

Sep 11, 2006 (7:40 am)

Replying to: wijoco (Mar 28, 2005 6:54 pm)
My last two rangers did the same thing. I had a 4*2 Ext. Cab 3 liter V6 and now a 4*4 4.0 liter V6. I too had the tranny fluid changed.
 
The problem comes and goes. I keep up with maintenance and only go to major gas stations like Citgo, Shell, Sunoco. The problem comes and goes.
 
If it is low fuel pressure -- how does one correct this? I already had the fuel filter replaced, which didn't look terrible, even though it was rusted somewhat on the outside and the truck only had 30,000 highway miles on it.
 
Any input would be appreciated.

#2340 of 2986 Battery Won't Hold Charge by jimlab

Sep 14, 2006 (5:53 am)

I have a 96 Ranger XLT, 4wd, 4.0L auto. It recently started draining the battery down overnight.
 
So far I have swapped the battery out with a known good battery. Pulled the alternator and taken it to the local advanced auto and auto zone for testing. Pulled the hood light, glove box lights and dome lights. All of which have made no difference.
 
I then measured across the battery under no/full load conditions with the car idling and I get about 14.2 volts. I also revved the truck up to 2-3000 rpm, and the voltage remained steady.
 
I then went and pulled each of the fuses in the cab fuse box and measured across each location in the fuse box to see if I could find a short (if the circuit is complete (or shorted) you'll measure voltage across the fuse location). Most of the locations measured 0 volts except for the following:
 
Location 21 Hazard Lamps
Location 24 Starter/Anti-theft
Location 25 Speedo/GEM
Location 27 Courtesy Lights
Location 28 GEM
 
I can see how the antitheft and GEM can draw power all the time, but the courtesy lights and hazard lamps kind of threw me.
 
Anybody have any ideas other than pulling fuses everynight and seeing if I can isolate the current draw that way? Is it possible for the alternator to test out OK, but have leaky diodes that can cause this problem? I'd also be interested in knowing what the typical current draw from the battery is with everything off- I think I measured something like 200 milliamps.
 
Thanks,
Jim

Messages Page 234 of 299

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