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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair
2719 messages, Last post on Aug 29, 2008 at 1:04 PM
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| When I use my turn signals and signal to turn left I get a loud buzzing and if I push the turn signal all the way to the top it will work. If I use it in the normal way I get this loud buzzing and the turn signal does not work. Any suggestions? | |
tranmition will not shift into 5th gear over drive, any and all replys greatly welcome, 
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I have a 2003 ranger 4.0 5-speed w/ 48,000 miles. When I had the oil changed at 45,000 miles, I got some free injector cleaner. I put it in at the next fill up. Soon after, I started experiencing a stumble during accelleration. I drive fairly agressively, running up to 5,000 rpm+, expecially when entering the freeway. The stumble feels like when you hit the rev limiter. The engine just dies for a moment then tries again. Like the ignition is cut off momentarily. It seems to happen between 3,000 and 5,000 RPM, with the gas peddle depressed about half way. If I back off, it quits, and runs smoothly. IF I floor it, it also quits stumbling and runs up all the way to the rev limiter. It has no trouble holding highway speeds. Also doesn't show up if I accelerate normally and keep the revs below 4,000. This also doesn't happen when the engine is cold, only after it warms up. I have not had a check engine light. And so I haven't put it on an anylizer. A mechanic I know suggested changing the fuel filter, there was no change. I've also checked vacuum hoses, and wire connections. No indication of problems. Finally I disconnected the battery to allow the computer to reset and reboot. The stumble still happens. I suspect that some sensor is not working correctly. Any ideas were to look next?
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Replying to: hciaffa (Feb 16, 2001 10:46 am) What you need to do is take the drive shaft out and pull the spline yoke out of the main shaft and re-grease the spline yoke with (I used marine grease) as it will retard moisture better, then put back in and get (2) new clamps for the boot. Smooth as a babies behind. This is an issue on all 4X4 and is caused by the old grease not allowing the spline to slip in and out, guess 4X4 have more torque expansion. Anyway this will take care of the problem and is cheaper than having the dealer do it, takes about an hour to fix.. Oh, by the way, the TSB #99-13-4 has been superseded. |
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Replying to: ethrjock (Mar 30, 2001 11:20 pm) The TSB #99-13-4 has been superseded, don't know what number now but maybe you won't need it when I explain. The problem is with your shaft spline, the little shaft that hooks to the bigger main shaft, the grease in it gets old and hard and will not let the main shaft expand correctly. You have to unbolt the front spline shaft and pull the spline out and put (marine grease) in it, it has better moisture control, then put the spline shaft back in and put (2) new clamps back on the boot so you won't get water in it, and thats it, takes about and hour and your done. Hope this helps.... |
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Hello all, I have a 1988 Ranger 2.3, 4 cylinder w/fuel injection. It's had all its routine maint. performed timely and is in excellent running codition...until recently. Last month I had the TPS sensor replaced when the truck began to idle rough, hesitate during acceleration, stall and lose power. I was amazed at the difference the sensor made! Felt like driving a new truck. However the hesitation returned. I was told by several people to use Sea Foam through my brake booster line to clean out the gunk in the engine and all should be fine - I did and now it rund worse than it ever did. It takes a lead foot to get to 30 - 40mph. The hesitation seems to be an all time thing now  . I can tell it wants to run like a champ, it idles great and has brief moments of smooth acceleration but it's being held back. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Could the Sea foam have made it worse? Any help would be appreciated.
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My 95' Rangers goes to 3500 rpms between shifts. I really need your help due to severe lack of funds. This problem started after i was stuck and have to spin the tires alot to get out. However, this may just be coincidence. The rpms only go up to 3500 when truck is in moving (I can put the clutch in when parked and the rpms do not go up) and come back down after completing the shift. When i come to a stop and put the clutch in the revs again go up to 3500 rpms for about 4 seconds then come back down. I've replaced the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor) that wasn't it...any suggestions?
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I hope I'm using the correct board; I'm a "crossover" from the Jeep Wrangler discussion as I've just returned to ownership of my beloved Ranger. Am asking assistance on the mounting location/hardware/process for a CB antenna on my 06 Ranger. I used a magnet mount for my Jeep, but will likely get the whip type for the Ranger. I'm guessing rear bumper mount is the way to go. Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated, as well as any recommendations for an inexpensive "kit" (antenna/cable/mount bracket). My e-mail is public if you'd rather communicate via that method. Thanks again! Randy
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Replying to: randyace (Jun 13, 2006 9:35 am) I buy the fiberglass antenna from Radio Shack which are white and about 4 foot long. They are top loaded, but you really can't see much of the wire, there is just a bulge at the top 6 inches or so. This antenna has no real mount, it is made to mount, and ground, through a hole in something, a hole about 1/2 inch across. It does has the spacers and insulator rings, etc. Find some mounting bolt for the rear bumper that can be removed. Drill a hole in one end of the bar stock that this bolt will go thru. You can then bend the bar stock into about any shape you need to go down, back, left or right, to clear the rear bumper. Bring a couple or so inches out past the rear bumper face. Cut the bar stock again there. Drill another hole in this bar stock for the mounting hole needed by the antenna. Assemble the antenna thru this hole. Be careful that you can open the tailgate, which means the antenna will be at the left or right corner of the vehicle. The toughest part is getting the cable 'outside' the cab of the truck. Many times there are rubber plugs in the floor of the cab that you can feed the cable thru. Reseal with silicone rubber. Attach the antenna along the frame with plastic ties using brake lines, fuel lines, etc. After tieing the antenna into the cable, I usually put a glob of silicone over all these open wires at the base of the antenna. One nice thing, this white antenna can be painted body color. It then looks very nice. This location isn't the very best for antenna reception, but you seldom talk 'long distane' on a CB anyway. You cannot wash the truck with the large rotating brush auto washs either. Ok, I've forgotten and done this, the antenna usually comes out horizonal rather than vertical. I've run this assembly for many years. Using the same bar stock on multiple vechicles. It is very springy and the antenna will bend at speed. I've NEVER had the bar stock break on me. And I mean that I usually end up with 3 or 4 right angle bends between the body bolt and the antenna. And as I said, I put these thru a brush car wash a few times. I have had the center wire break off after a few years where it ties into the antenna. The antenna will flex around and after a few years, the copper wire may not be flexing the same amount, and will break. I usually also take the woven steel shield material on the end and a self tapping screw, and ground it into the bar stock. This screw will usually rust up after a few years even with the silicone around it. These look good when painted. A small problem might be walking into it if your garage is dark. I don't take my vechicles off road or through brusk. If you do, this mount probably isn't for you. The main positive point for this mount, in my opinion, is that you end up with NO holes in the vehicle.
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Replying to: bolivar (Jun 13, 2006 8:50 pm) I'm guessing the bar stock you mentioned can come from a place such as Lowe's or Home Depot? Many thanks for your time in answering! Randy |
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